As the road approaches Haverfordwest trees of respectable proportions begin to appear, no longer leaning towards the north-east.
HAVERFORDWEST
The town of Haverfordwest occupies an important position among those of South Wales, and is the centre of commerce for a large district. The streets are narrow and steep, with sharp turnings, probably caused by the confinement of the ancient fortifications which once protected the town. Of these practically nothing remains but the shell of a strong castle, now converted into the county gaol, standing upon a rocky eminence overlooking the town. Although very impressive when viewed from a distance or from the River Cleddau in the town, it hardly repays minute inspection. Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, is said to have built it about 1120, and it became, with that of Pembroke, one of the most important fortresses in 'Little England,' as the southern part of Pembroke was termed. It was demolished by order of Oliver Cromwell.
St. Mary's Church is of great interest, the exterior showing some fantastic gargoyles, and the nave some fine clustered columns of Early English work, with a Perpendicular clerestory above. The ceilings should be noticed, and also the early lancets at the west end. It is a beautiful church, full of light, with no gloomy corners. There is an ancient wooden carving of St. Michael the Archangel and the Dragon, dating from the fifteenth century.
The Priory Ruins are situated a short distance from the southern part of the town, and are quite picturesque. They are the remains of a priory of Austin Canons erected in the twelfth century. The very liberal grants of Robert de Hwlffordd, lord of this town, were confirmed by Edward III. The remains of the minster are of Early English work.
The road from Haverfordwest takes a sharp turn to the right upon leaving the town, and passes over the railway-lines. An isolated church stands upon a hill to the right, and soon afterwards the woods surrounding Picton Castle, two miles away, come into view. It is one of the most ancient residences in the kingdom, having been built by a De Picton in the reign of Rufus. From that time it has been inhabited by an unbroken line of proprietors, never deserted, never vacant. The alterations have not very much affected the baronial style of the building, and until quite recently it presented the appearance of a medieval fortress.
At Canaston Bridge the road crosses the eastern Cleddau, which discharges into Milford Haven, and here, upon the left, at about a mile, lies the picturesque ruin of Llawhaden Castle, once a residence of the Bishops of St. David's. The gateway, flanked by two demi-bastions, forms a very effective picture.
Approaching Narberth, the right-hand road should be taken at Robeston Wathen. Fir-trees near this point begin to make their appearance, having been conspicuously absent from St. David's to this point.
NARBERTH
There is a very steep hill in this town, leading to the ruins of a Norman castle crowning the summit. They are picturesquely covered with ivy, but the remains now apparent are small when compared with those visible in the eighteenth century. The roads in the neighbourhood of Narberth are rather misleading, as so many by-roads enter. Care should be taken to decipher the sign-boards in many cases before proceeding. Between Narberth and St. Clears, for instance, there are three roads at Tavernspite near an inn, and the centre one should be taken.