Napoleon embarked from St. Raphaël for Elba after his abdication in 1814. The British warship Undaunted received the ex-Emperor on board on April 28. He had come through many hostile crowds on his journey from Fontainebleau, and so great was the danger to his life that he consented to disguise himself in the uniform of an Austrian officer.
THE CORNICHE D’OR
is a most beautiful road, recently built by the Touring Club de France, along the high rocky coast of the Estérels. Its dangers for motorists have been described at the beginning of this section, but in case that warning may have been overlooked, the need of driving slowly and cautiously is again emphasized.
After the somewhat arid scenery of the delta of the Rhone and of the country about Aix and Brignoles, the first few miles of the Riviera are an exquisite pleasure to the eye. The road at first winds between gardens, whose trees cast long patches of shade, and the air is deliciously scented with lemons and other plants; then one comes out by the breaking waves, and looks across little bays, ‘the peacock’s neck in hue.’ Dark masses of firs clothe the red of the porphyry cliffs, and each turn of the road brings some fresh combination of rock and wave and tree-clothed valley.
Agay is a tiny place on one of these lovely bays, and as there is a choice of hotels, it is a delightful spot for a halt for the night if one does not mind the periodic roar of the P.L.M. expresses. Beyond Théoule comes the first great view of the French Riviera. On a clear morning of typical spring sunshine the great sweep of the blue bay of Cannes, with its bold mountain background and green villa-dotted shores, is one of exquisite loveliness. It appears with a foreground of the strong, hot colour of swarthy rocks, deep green foliage, and perhaps the brilliance of lemons and oranges, or a bank of glowing flowers, emphasizing the delicate charm of the distance.
The road gradually drops down to the sea-level at La Napoule, where the famous golf-links of Cannes are situated. A short run along the villa-bordered main road brings one to the great resort founded by an English statesman—Henry, Lord Brougham and Vaux.
ON THE COAST OF THE ESTERELS.
A typical stretch of the rocky shore between Cannes and St. Raphaël.