TO
Sir ROBERT JOHN KENNEDY, K.C.M.G.
THIS BOOK
IS DEDICATED IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE
OF THE MANY KINDNESSES SHOWN
AND VALUABLE AID GIVEN
BY HIM
TO THE AUTHOR
IN HIS
LITERARY WORK AT MONTEVIDEO
IN 1911
CONTENTS
| PAGE | |
| [CHAPTER I] INTRODUCTORY | |
| An allegory of the Pampa—Patriarchs and Oligarchies—National and local politics and administration—Patrician government—The landed aristocracy—Patriotism and foreign railways—The problem of agricultural labour—Propaganda, in theory and in practice—Needed and unneeded immigration—The peon of to-day and the gaucho—Urgent need of rural population—Industries in waiting—The INCALCULABLE future of the River Plate countries—Lack of Uruguayan statistics | [1] |
| [CHAPTER II] THE WAR | |
| The shock falls on existing local depression—Vigorous and prompt action of the River Plate governments and banks—No “Mañana”—Mr. C. A. Tornquist’s views—Again the need of rural population—Socialism from above and below—Buoyancy of national securities | [18] |
| [CHAPTER III] HISTORY AND POLITICS | |
| The Declaration of Independence—Subsequent chaos—Rozas and Artígas—Sarmiento—Mitre—Juarez Celman—The Argentine financial crash of 1891—Uruguay; “Whites” and “Reds”—Uruguayan patriotism and honesty—“State socialism gone mad”—The commencements of modern River Plate history—Dr. Saenz Peña—Sound financial policy—Future peace and prosperity—The ballot in Argentina and former electoral corruption—The people a new factor in Argentine politics | [29] |
| [CHAPTER IV] RACIAL ELEMENTS AND SOCIAL CONDITIONS | |
| The Argentine of the future (?) and of the past—Spanish and Italian immigration—Young patriots—Argentine and Uruguayan sources of immigration—River Plate Spanish and philology—Argentines and Uruguayans contrasted—Manners and characteristics—The true signification of “Mañana”—Some advice to immigrants—Land and the foreigner—Much learning and little application—Lower-class illiteracy—Argentine women, households, and children—Jeunesse dorée—Further contrast of Argentines and Uruguayans | [40] |
| [CHAPTER V] NATIONAL, PROVINCIAL, AND MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT | |
| The constitutions of Argentina and Uruguay, advantages and defects of each—Dr. Figueroa Alcorta—“Revolución de arriba”—A “Coup d’État”—Former Argentine electoral practices—Doctrinaire government in Uruguay—An autocratic democrat—General strike and general festivities—Certified milk-cans—Provincial authorities—Freedom from corruption of National governments—The “making” of internal politics—Finance—“A fat thief better than a lean one”—Childish things, soon to be put away | [62] |
| [CHAPTER VI] MONTEVIDEO AND BUENOS AIRES | |
| History and modernity; music and verdure—Theatres and Bathing—The ambition of Montevideo—Carnival—The origins of two great fortunes—More historic buildings and the “Palace of Gold”—The Buenos Aires “tube”; its tramways—Comparative expense of living—Opera houses and theatres—Night and day—Ever-changing Buenos Aires—The Jockey Club—Palermo and the Avenida de Alvear—Fashion moves northwards—Corso and race-course—Gambling—The agricultural show—Hurlingham—The Tigre—The Recoleta—“The Bond Street of the South”—Hotels—Buenos Aires not a hot-bed of vice—Marriage and mourning—“Conventillos”—Fashion in Buenos Aires and Montevideo | [79] |
| [CHAPTER VII] FINANCE AND COMMERCE | |
| Susceptibility of South America to conditions of the European money markets; early fear of Balkan complications—Relatively bad times—Transient “crises”—August, 1914—Protective measures—“It’s an ill wind that blows no one any good”—Still further insistence on the need of agricultural population—Currencies—The Argentine “Conversion” Law—Former gold speculation and banks of issue—Golden opportunity for British trade—A South American view of the Monroe doctrine—The “Hustler”—British manufacturers and the South American trade—How to lose it—How to keep it—Uruguay’s creditable reputation—General commercial conditions in Argentina and Uruguay—The Buenos Aires Stock Exchange—Gambling—Sound securities: the Argentine Hypothecary Bank, and National, Provincial, and Municipal Debenture Bonds—The new and the old Buenos Aires corn exchanges—More about the “Bolza”—Fictitious booms—A great bear—The death of public speculation—Cedulas and Cedulas—Credito Argentino | [93] |
| [CHAPTER VIII] RAILWAYS, PORTS AND IMMIGRATION | |
| An Imperium in Imperio—Foreign capital in River Plate railways—Gauges—The “Mitre” Law—Luxurious travelling—An U.S. Syndicate—Argentine national railways—The Transandine and Entre Rios lines—The projected southern transandine line—Maritime accessibility of the River Plate Republics—Chief ports—Spanish immigration | [122] |
| [CHAPTER IX] GENERAL STATISTICS | |
| Increase of trade during past two decades—United Kingdom imports of grain and meat—U.K. exports, showing importance of Argentina and Uruguay—British capital invested in Argentina during first half of 1914—Trade of the U.S. with S. America—U.S. exports, showing importance of Argentina—Argentine imports from Europe in 1913—The rich productiveness of Uruguay—Increase of Argentine and Uruguayan exports—Public works and small budget surpluses—Buenos Aires commercial and industrial census, 1914; bread and smoke(!)—Italian and Spanish retail traders—Russians and Jews | [127] |
| [CHAPTER X] A GLANCE AT THE PROVINCES AND NATIONAL TERRITORIES OF ARGENTINA, AND THE INTERIOR OF URUGUAY | |
| BUENOS AIRES, the “Queen” Province: Its stillborn capital—Famous museum and university—Bahia Blanca—Mar-del-Plata, a veritable round of gaiety; the new Port—Potatoes—Other chief towns of the province—Cereals and live stock—Great agricultural and industrial activity—Generally uninteresting scenery: model farms and fine country houses | [139] |
| SANTA FÉ: Forests, live stock and agriculture—An old-world capital—Busy Rosario—Other ports—Mixed agriculture and stock farming—Milling and other industries | [144] |
| CÓRDOBA: The gaucho wars—The learned city—The Cathedral and university—Monks and nuns—Mediæval atmosphere—Some personal recollections: religion and roulette—Alta gracia—Mar chiquita—Chief towns—The Dique San Roque—A projected canal | [145] |
| ENTRE RIOS: No longer the “Poor Sister”—The railway ferry service—City of Paraná; Urquíza and Sarmiento—Concórdia—Large land holdings—Extract of meat | [150] |
| CORRIENTES: Where the Diligence still runs—Descendants of the Conquistadores—San Juan de la Vera de las siete Corrientes—Other chief towns—Good possibilities but commercial apathy—Lake Iberá—A zoological invasion—General San Martin | [153] |
| SAN LUIS: Alfalfa—Irrigation—Grapes and wine—Minerals—Native indolence | [156] |
| SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO: Irrigation and cereal cultivation—Alfalfares—Quebracho and charcoal—Amenities of the Santiagueño—Quack doctors and wise women; a cure for toothache—Dangers of quackery | [158] |
| TUCUMÁN: Smallest Argentine province, but important—Sugar—Former difficulties and present progress—The city of Tucumán—The Declaration of Independence—Palatial villas—The Plaza Independencia, theatre and casino—Irrigation—Snow-capped mountains and fertile valleys | [160] |
| CATAMARCA: Sparse population—Irrigation and transport; a new government line—Minerals—The Campo del Pucara and the city of Catamarca; a sleepy hollow—Native lethargy; a Spanish aristocracy—Unexploited mineral wealth | [163] |
| LA RIOJA: Water, labour and transport needed—Maize and tropical fruits—Wine—Irrigation—A new national railway—Mineral wealth; La Famatina—The city of La Rioja; arrested development—Remains of Inca civilization—Mountain and plain | [165] |
| JUJUY: The brothers Leach—A picturesque province—The Humahuaca dialect—General Lavalle—The blue and white flag and the “Sun of May”—A primitive population | [167] |
| SALTA: “The Cradle of the Republic”—Jabez Balfour—The gaucho—Coya Indians—Need of intelligent and energetic population—Ponchos—Rubber—Hot springs—No soldiery, only armed police | [169] |
| MENDOZA: Wine—“Entre San Juan y Mendoza”—Alfalfa—San Rafael—Irrigation—Earthquakes—Public gardens and the West Park—Wine manufacture—Table grapes—Peaches—Coal and petroleum—The Puente del Inca—Hot springs | [174] |
| SAN JUAN: Former financial recalcitrance—Depreciated paper—Irrigation and enforced prosperity—A new railway—The defeat of the Buenos Aires grape ring—Old colonial charm | [178] |
| THE PAMPA CENTRAL: The fifteenth province?—Wheat, linseed and maize—Rapid development—Shifting sand-hills—Three great railways—Wool and hides—The latent landlord in excelsis—Need of a real colonization policy; settlers wanted | [182] |
| NEUQUEN: Chilean colonies and trade—Wheat, alfalfa and vegetables—“Tronador”; Scandinavian scenery—Lake Nahuel Huapí and Victoria Island—Hot and medicinal springs—Future wealth—Vast irrigation—Rich, virgin soil—Deep-water ports | [185] |
| RIO NEGRO: Fertile soil, but no rainfall—Irrigation and the Lago Pellegrini—Regulation of the flow of the river—Former disastrous floods—A climatic transformation—New railway lines—San Blas—Copper, salt, and petroleum—Furious winds—A scheme which failed | [188] |
| CHUBUT: Petroleum—The Welsh colony—“Foreigners” not admitted—Lazy descendants of active forefathers—Sparse population—Wool and alfalfa—A new railway | [193] |
| SANTA CRUZ: English climate, orchards and gardens; far from the madding crowd—Sheep—Wind!—Cold storage—Wheat, oats and alfalfa; apples and pears | [196] |
| TIERRA DEL FUEGO: No volcanoes in “Fire Land”—A cure for anarchy—Hardy sheep—Seal and whale fishing—Potatoes and table vegetables—The Silesian mission—Mr. Bridges’ refuge—The new gaol—Gold prospecting—“De Gustibus!” | [197] |
| MISIONES: The “Imperio Jesuitico”—Practical religion—Fairyland—The Iguazú Falls—Timber—Mate—Maize, sugar and fruit—Granite—Neglected industries—Need of suitable labour—Indians then and now—A projected railway to the junction of three republics | [200] |
| FORMOSA: Not the most beautiful—No man’s land—A projected railway—Quebracho—Alfalfa and maize—Again the Latifundío question—A fiscal land scandal—Landlords and squatters—Smuggling—Tobacco and sugar—Timber—Pleasant memories of the River Plate | [205] |
| URUGUAY: General physical and climatic characteristics—Flora—The Uruguayan Rio Negro the dividing line of general physical features—Fruit and vegetables—Flour—Soil—Minerals and the Mining Laws | [212] |
| THE CHACO and LOS ANDES: Timber and Minerals | [214] |
| [CHAPTER XI] AGRICULTURE | |
| Comparative values of agricultural exports—Railways not the only causes of agricultural extension—Railway policy—Ambassadorial managers—Intensive and extensive farming—“Secondary” industries—Bread versus meat—Minerals, petroleum and pigs—Uruguayan agriculture—River Plate cereal exports—Wheat and alfalfa; Agricultural dolce far niente—Again “population!”—An economic deadlock—“Colonists”—Mr. Herbert Gibson’s views—Dr. Francisco Latzina—Cultivable land in Argentina—The Defensa Agricola—Señor Ricardo Pillado—Tabular statistics—Latest Argentine harvest and cereal export estimates—Deficiency of official Uruguayan statistics—General soil characteristics | [215] |
| [CHAPTER XII] LIVE STOCK | |
| The “History of Belgrano”—The first horses on the River Plate—The Goes’ cattle—The first goats and sheep—Early export trade—The first freezing establishment—Amazing pastoral and agricultural changes—The “discovery” of alfalfa—Sheep—Fine stock—Horses—Pigs and poultry—Tired land—Tabular statistics—Favourite breeds—Comparative absence of disease—British prohibition of import of animals on the hoof—Drought—Water supplies of Uruguay and Argentina—A windmill which was not erected—Fencing—Anglo-Saxon enterprise—The Argentine Rural Society; its herd and flock books—The agricultural and live stock show—Trees—The coming colonist and mixed farming—Tabular statistics—The meat trade: its history from the seventeenth to the present century—Market classification—Predominance of U.S. interests in cold storage industry—Influence of cold storage companies on fine breeding—Tabular statistics | [249] |
| [CHAPTER XIII] FORESTRY | |
| River Plate timber and fancy woods—Señor Mauduit’s lists and descriptions—Argentina and Uruguay considered as one arboricultural area—Importance of this subject—Railway coach building—Shelter for cattle | [277] |
| [CHAPTER XIV] LITERATURE AND ART | |
| Historians and poets—Other writers—Art awaits development—Painting, architecture, literature and music—The native Drama—Oratory—Heroes and history—An Argentine sculptress—Wanted: an author | [299] |
| Index | [303] |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| Map | [Front Endpaper] |
| A Part of the Iguazú Falls | [Frontispiece] |
| TO FACE PAGE | |
| The Plaza Libertad, Montevideo | [80] |
| The Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires | [84] |
| The Cathedral and Plaza Victoria, Buenos Aires | [86] |
| Transporter Bridge, Port of Buenos Aires | [122] |
| Grain Elevators, Madero Dock, Buenos Aires | [126] |
| Ruins of Jesuit Buildings, Mendoza, Argentina | [174] |
| A Bit of the Transandine Railway, Argentina | [176] |
| Entrance to the Summit Tunnel through the Andes (Chilean Side) | [176] |
| Puente del Inca; Mendoza, Argentina | [178] |
| Views on Lake Nahuel Huapí, Argentine National Territory of Neuquen | [186] |
| Head Portion of the Rio Negro, Argentina, Great Irrigation and Control Works. (Bird’s-Eye View) | [188] |
| A Typical Small “Camp” Town (Rivera, Uruguay) | [212] |