Embroidery and Tapestry Weaving

by Grace Christie

AUTHOR'S PREFACE

In the following pages the practical sides of Embroidery and Tapestry Weaving are discussed, their historical development being only incidentally touched upon.

The drawings illustrating design and the practical application of stitches have been taken almost without exception from actual Embroidery or Tapestry; the exceptions, where it has been impossible to consult originals, from photographic representations obtained from various sources, among which the collection of M. Louis de Farcy should be mentioned.

I have to thank Miss May Morris and Mrs. W. R. Lethaby for permission to reproduce pieces of their work, and Miss Killick, Colonel J. E. Butler-Bowdon, the Viscount Falkland, and the Reverend F. J. Brown of Steeple Aston for permission to reproduce work in their possession. Also I must thank the authorities of the Victoria and Albert Museum for help in various ways, and Mr. J. H. Taylor, M.A. Oxf. and Cam., for his kindness in reading the proofs.

GRACE CHRISTIE.

Ewell,
September 1906.

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CONTENTS

• PAGE
• [Editor's Preface] [xi]
• [Author's Preface] [xvii]
• [PART I]
• EMBROIDERY
• [CHAPTER I]
• Introduction [27]
• [CHAPTER II]
• TOOLS, APPLIANCES, AND MATERIALS
• Needles—Scissors—Thimbles—Frames—Stand and Frame combined—Tambour Frame—Cord-making Appliance—Requisites for Transferring Patterns—Pricker—Knife—Spindle—Piercer—Materials suitable for Embroidering upon—Threads of all Kinds—Stones, Beads, &c. [34]
• [CHAPTER III]
• PATTERN DESIGNING
• The Difficulties of Pattern Making—A Stock-in-Trade—Some Principles upon which Patterns are Built Up—Spacing-Out—Nature and Convention—Shading—Figure Work—Limitations—Colour [51]
• [CHAPTER IV]
• STITCHES
• Introduction—Chain Stitch—Zigzag Chain—Chequered Chain—Twisted Chain—Open Chain—Braid Stitch—Cable Chain—Knotted Chain—Split Stitch [75]
• [CHAPTER V]
• STITCHES—(continued)
• Satin Stitch—Long and Short Stitch—Stem Stitch—Overcast Stitch—Back Stitch—Buttonhole Stitch—Tailor's Buttonhole—Fancy Buttonhole Edgings—Flower in Open Buttonhole Stitch—Leaf in Close Buttonhole Stitches—Petal in Solid Buttonholing [95]
• [CHAPTER VI]
• STITCHES—(continued)
• Knots and Knot Stitches—Herring-bone Stitch—Feather Stitch—Basket Stitch—Fishbone Stitch—Cretan Stitch—Roumanian Stitch—Various Insertion Stitches—Picots [118]
• [CHAPTER VII]
• CANVAS WORK AND STITCHES
• Introduction—Samplers—Petit Point Pictures—Cross Stitch—Tent Stitch—Gobelin Stitch—Irish Stitch—Plait Stitch—Two-sided Italian Stitch—Holbein Stitch—Rococo Stitch [147]
• [CHAPTER VIII]
• METHODS OF WORK
• Couching—Braid Work—Laid Work—Applied Work—Inlaid Work—Patch Work [164]
• [CHAPTER IX]
• METHODS OF WORK—(continued)
• Quilting—Raised Work—Darning—Open Fillings—Darned Netting [189]
• [CHAPTER X]
• Methods of work—(continued)
• Drawn Thread Work—Hem Stitching—Simple Border Patterns—Darned Thread Patterns—Corners—Cut or Open Work—Various Methods of Refilling the Open Spaces [213]
• [CHAPTER XI]
• EMBROIDERY WITH GOLD AND SILVER THREADS
• Introduction—Materials—Precautions for the Prevention of Tarnish—Ancient Method of Couching—Its various Good Points—Description of Working Diagram—Working a Raised Bar—Examples of Patterns Employed in Old Work—Illustrations upon Draped Figures—Usual Method of Couching—Couching Patterns—Outline Work—Raised Work—The Use of Purls, Bullions, &c. [229]
• [CHAPTER XII]
• LETTERING, HERALDRY, AND EMBLEMS
• The Uses of Lettering—Marking—Monograms—Heraldry—Emblems [259]
• [CHAPTER XIII]
• THE GARNITURE OF WORK
• Finishing off—Making up—Edges—Use of Cord-making Appliance—Cord Twisted by Hand—Knotted Cord—Fringes—Tassels—Knots [271]
• [CHAPTER XIV]
• PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS
• Transferring Patterns—Paste for Embroidery Purposes—Protection and Preservation of Work—Washing Embroidery—Prevention and Cure of Puckered Work—Points about the Thread—Dressing the Frame [292]
• [PART II]
• TAPESTRY WEAVING
• [CHAPTER XV]
• Introduction [307]
• [CHAPTER XVI]
• NECESSARY APPLIANCES AND MATERIALS
• The Loom—Mirror—Bobbins and Needles—The Comb—Embroidery Frame treated as a Loom—Warp—Wools—Silk—Gold and Silver Thread [315]
• [CHAPTER XVII]
• PREPARATIONS FOR WORK
• Warping the Loom—Dressing the Coat-Stave—Tracing the Pattern upon the Threads [328]
• [CHAPTER XVIII]
• THE TECHNIQUE OF WEAVING
• Weaving—Commencing and Fastening Off—The Interlocking Stitch—Fine Drawing—Shading—Added After-stitches [339]
• [Notes on the Collotype Plates] [355]
• [The Collotype Plates] [369]
• [Index] [402]