When the Vali sent word that all was ready for me to proceed on my way to Angora, I could not hesitate. Whatever my compatriots may have said, and would, no doubt, have now repeated with greater emphasis, I could not think of having allowed him to take so much trouble on my account for nothing!

Above all, particularly towards a Moslem, the last thing that any lady could think of doing would be to betray the slightest lack of trust. What matter if we were on the brink of war? It simply never entered my head that I could really come to any harm from the Turks!

It is of interest, nevertheless, to put on record the various, not altogether unreasonable, warnings that I received at the hotel in Smyrna from my fellow-guests. One and all were quite convinced that I had taken leave of my senses. Only a mad woman would think of going to Angora at this season and on the brink of war!

The Spaniard had spent his life in the Near East and knew the Turks! “Your own friends,” he said, “the Ministers who know you, may show you the greatest respect; but you are English and cannot speak the language. The people are mere fanatics!” However, he gave me a box of insect powder, a bottle of iodine, and—most welcome of all to me—a yard of flannel to make an abdominal belt!

One Italian implored me to “come back and enjoy the Italian skies.... You will freeze in Angora.” He gave me a packet of chocolate and half a bottle of cognac.

A Second Italian could only endeavour to “face the fact” that I was determined to have my way. As he knew something of where I was going, he brought me quinine, asperin, mosquito-cream, and calomel.

The Dane was horrified to learn that I had no gold. “Gold is essential in war-time. Gold saved my life in Russia;” and he handed me in exchange for paper fifty gold Turkish pounds, which, however, proved more weighty than useful.

The Dutch Parson gave me his blessing. Though generally optimistic and pro-Turk, he admitted that things looked unusually black at the moment, and advised me to “wait and see.”

A British Naval Officer would not admit the sarcasm of his comment that it was “very interesting” of me to “go to Angora!” He considered “the Turks the finest race on the face of the earth.... My God, they know what I mean!” And, personally, I believe they knew very well.

One American could only repeat that “it was a mad idea.... We are not safe even here. There is plenty of oil there, certainly, but—heroics is heroics!”