The edges of similar "sills" of igneous rock have controlled much of the scenery between the Highland border of Scotland and the Tyne. A fine example is the indented scarp of the Great Whin Sill, a sheet of dolerite intruded among the Carboniferous strata of Northumberland. This mass forms a platform for Bamburgh Castle against the wild North Sea, and is traceable south-westward across the country towards Carlisle. North of Hexham, its escarpment is occupied by Hadrian's wall, and the town of Borcovicus was planted on the edge, overlooking all Northumbria.
The farmers of North Britain and Ireland have long known upstanding igneous dykes as unprofitable "whinstones." The regularity of direction among dykes over very wide areas points to their intrusion along cracks produced by stretching of the crust. Radial grouping of dykes, such as one finds near volcanic necks, or, on a gigantic scale, round Tycho on the moon, may be due to explosive action; but the majority of dykes seem to have followed upon earth-movement. In the north of Ireland, from the coast of Down to that of Donegal, a series of compact rocks of Devonian age occurs in dykes lying almost invariably north and south. The post-Cretaceous dykes of the same region have a still more uniform trend, from north-west to south-east. Such series of dykes modify the scenery of coasts by forming promontories and serviceable piers for boats.
The offshoots near the surface of a great intrusive mass are far less regular. We are here close to the zone of attack, the "shatter-zone," and the structures or regular fracture-planes of the overlying rock only partially control the position taken up by the intrusive magma. Irregular knots and bosses appear in place of far-spreading sheets, and a network of crossing veins occurs, instead of a system of co-ordinated dykes. The resulting country is hummocky and broken, and, where the cauldron itself has become exposed, striking contrasts of surface are seen as we pass from the igneous core to the older and frequently stratified rocks upon its flanks.
Some large bodies of intrusive rock have, however, been formed sheet by sheet, and a bedded sill-like structure is then revealed in them on weathering. Sir A. Geikie[89] calls attention to this in his description of the heart of the black gabbro mass in Skye. But, as a rule, the continuity of structure in batholites, and their characteristic joint-planes set at angles to one another, cause them to appear as massive blocks in the landscape, untraversed by any regular lines.
Granite, with its broad tabular jointing, which is often developed parallel to a surface of cooling, forms rounded slopes and domes after long-continued weathering. When reared high into the zone of frost-action, it develops spires and pinnacles, as in the huge "aiguilles" of Mont Blanc. But, as decay goes on, the uniform descent of boulders and sand forms spreading taluses, banked against the lower slopes, while the curving joints, not too closely set, promote a smoothness on the higher lands. These joints, moreover, divide the rock into boulders almost ready-made. Tabular structure sometimes predominates; but even in this case the exposed ends of the layers soon become rounded, as the felspar crystals pass into a powdery state. Commonly, a rough spheroidal structure prevails, as may be traced in many of the Dartmoor "tors," and the blocks that slip away through widening of the joints become more and more rounded as their surfaces crumble on the talus ([Fig. 17]).
Fig. 17. Weathering Granite. Lundy Island.
In tropical lands, granite exfoliates under the alternations of clear hot days and clear cold nights, and the joint-structure allows of the formation of great round-backed surfaces, on which spheroidal boulders appear poised. These boulders are the relics of an overlying layer of granite, most of which has slipped away to the hill-foot. Their surfaces crumble, owing to the unequal expansion of the constituent minerals. When the rainy season sets in, the decomposed crust is washed away; during the dry season it falls off in flakes and powder. In this way the magnificent series of monoliths that surround the grave of Cecil Rhodes in the Matopo Hills have become separated out from a continuous sheet of granite. They stand now like glacial boulders on a surface almost as smooth as that of a roche moutonnée ([Fig. 18]). The landscape for miles around is fantastic with huge fallen masses, and with high-perched blocks that seem about to fall. Similar scenery is well known in central India, and exfoliation controls the form of mountain-domes in California and Brazil. J. C. Branner [90] lays most stress on temperature-changes in the surface-zone, and little on original spheroidal jointing, in promoting the exfoliation of the rounded boulders.
Fig. 18. Granite weathering under tropical conditions. Rhodes's Grave, Matopo Hills, S. Rhodesia. The blocks like boulders are residues of a sheet of granite that once overlay the hill.