Baby turtles are very easily kept as pets and require little care. While in captivity, Turtles will forget their time schedule and will not hibernate. Any round or oval bowl, an aquarium or a flat pan with a rim sufficiently high to prevent the turtle from crawling out, is an adequate home. In this container, place white or colored pebbles, and in the center a flat stone. Fill the container with clean water of room temperature (60 to 80 degrees, fahrenheit) but see to it that the stone is not covered by the water for it will serve as an “Island” and thus give the turtle a chance to leave the wet element when desired. The best place for the bowl is in a light place, but special care should be taken to see that the bowl is not exposed too long to the direct sun. Ant Eggs, commonly packed as “Turtle Food” will mainly be their diet but lean raw beef, which is finely scraped, will be an appreciated change. The same applies for green lettuce, rainworms, etc. A variation in food and sunshine will prevent blindness, but should a turtle get a white film over its eyes, a few drops of Cod liver Oil forced by a medicine dropper in its mouth, might help. Boric acid swabbed over the eyes will also be beneficial. Turtles will not feed “on land” therefore all food should be placed in the water. Water should be changed two to three times weekly.
HEALTH
It is much easier to keep fish healthy than to cure them.
Disturb your fish as little as possible.
Fish in good health are active and keep dorsal fin erect. (Folded fins for a short period do not mean a sick fish.)
Most fish ills develop from chills. Keep fish above lowest safe temperature. Young fry especially should be kept warm.
Avoid extremes of temperature. Avoid sudden changes of temperature. Provide some type of aquarium heater for cold months.
Do not crowd fish—be sure plants are thriving and there is ample oxygen in water.
Fish constantly at top indicate foul water and lack of oxygen. Remove part of water and replace with fresh of same temperature.