BRINE SHRIMP—To raise Egglaying Fish, the use of Brine Shrimp ([fig. 5]) replaces the old fashioned Infusoria method more and more. Brine Shrimp Eggs are available in any good pet shop and are easily hatched. Directions for hatching Brine Shrimp Eggs are found on package.
DISEASE
Tropical Fish are naturally healthy. If kept in a healthy aquarium, fed properly and kept warm little or no trouble will be experienced. In short—IT IS EASIER TO KEEP FISH HEALTHY THAN TO CURE THEM.
Practically all diseases are due to one of the following: UNHEALTHY TANK—water too acid or alkaline—lack of oxygen—decomposition of food—plants not thriving. IMPROPER FEEDING—Overfeeding, lack of live food, lack of variation in diet. CHILL—the cause of most fish ills. Fish is weakened and subject to diseases, many incurable.
Ichthyopthirius (Ich): A parasite that attacks the fish. Recognized by tiny white spot on fins. Fish have fins folded and scratch themselves on sand. Contagious. Treat whole tank (plants and snails need not be removed). Raise temperature to 80° F. Add about two drops 2% Mercurochrome to each gallon of water. If fish are not cured in 3 or 4 days repeat treatment.
Shimmy: A wagging movement without changing position is usually the result of a chill affecting digestive organs. Not contagious—give salt treatment.
Dropsy: Body swells, scales stand out at an angle. Fish act normal until a few days before death. Salt treatment sometimes brings relief. Cure doubtful.
Wounds or Ulcers: Wrap piece of cotton on toothpick; hold fish in damp cloth and paint wound for 2 minutes with Mercurochrome twice a day. Do not allow Mercurochrome to touch gills.
Constipation: 1 tablespoon Epsom Salts to 5 gallons of water.
Air Bladder Trouble: Caused by sudden temperature change. Fish swim either at top or stay near bottom. Cure unknown.