Pieces of silesia are just as good for stays as Holland linen is; therefore cut your sleeve lining or your vest lining out of the whole cloth.
As a general rule, garments should be made up with very little wadding. I have made my vests without wadding for years and no customer has found fault. Black wadding should never be used for vests, it soils the lining.
Some, especially young cutters, may not know the following, but to them it will be worth the price of this book: If a coat is too small in the breast and no outlet anywhere, cut the canvas, and all lining and all padding through downward, and at the center of the breast, and insert a wedge of say one inch, after which the outside can be stretched that much, and the stretching will never go back. If the armholes are too small and no outlets, and the breast will become too small if the armholes are cut forward, cut the lining and padding through, under the arm down to the waist, insert a wedge of say one inch and stretch an artificial wedge in the outside until the armhole is large enough; this works always. It may cost a good deal to alter such a coat, but if a coat is worth altering at all it is worth altering right, and it is better to spend a few dollars for alteration than to throw the coat away; but you must be a cutter or a bushelman who knows how to do it.
To find an angle of 135 deg., go up and sidewise equal distances and strike a line as in Dia. [IV].
An angle of 135 deg. is one square, and one-half square divided from corner to corner.
The angle of 120 deg. consists of two points of the circle, as shown in Dias. [XI] and [XII]; each point is 60 deg.
The Equilateral Triangle consists of three equal lines, each line of which is 60 deg., like in Dia. [XII].
To find the angle of 15 deg., spread two lines one-fourth of their length, or 20 in. long and 5 in. wide.
To find the angle of 7½ deg., spread two lines one-eighth of their length, or 80 in. long and 10 in. wide.