Garment cutting in the twentieth century

by Günther F. Hertzer

All the positions of the lines, angles and bases are placed as indicated, because years of trial have convinced me that they give the best results. There is no way conceivable, that I have not tried, to adjust the angle of 7½ deg. in order to bring the lines in harmony with the body—and the result is here given. What difficulties I have had, to obtain this result, it is not necessary for me to say, neither would anyone believe me, I suppose. But I do say, however, that I spent 8 years in the work of alteration, to adjust this angle of 7½ deg. To some it may seem improbable that I would possess the patience and determination to succeed in solving the problem, and would stick to that determination for 8 long years—but I did.

Now, I will give a description of the seat and compare it with the front, and follow it with a description of the slope of the back, by which the seat is to be fitted. From the crotch forward the front tapers up, and forward, and the normal form can be fitted on a straight line, or with a straight piece of material, by simply turning the crotch backward, but it is not so with the back, or the seat (see Dia. [XV]). The seat turns in a different way, and from the crotch backward; downward first, say 1 to 1½ inches, then backward, and then upward and forward again. A sheet of paper wrapped around the body will fit well in to the body of the normal form all around the front (see Dia. [XV]). At the side it will do the same all the way up to the thigh-bone, or the largest part of the seat. But on the back the sheet will not meet the body below, or above the seat, nor will the sheet touch the top of the side; and in order to bring the back to the body, below the seat, the back must be cut through crosswise, when the lower portion can be pushed in, and thus brought in contact with the back of the thigh. Thus cutting the sheet crosswise and below the seat will cause an opening of about 2½ inches directly under the seat, running out to nothing at the side of the thigh, which opening, if minutely examined, will show an angle of 15 deg. This must be closed again by inserting a wedge by some means. This inserted wedge forms a sack for the seat, and is thrown downward and backward just as the seat itself.

But it will not do to cut pants with a piece across the seat, so we must create an artificial wedge by using the surplus cloth on the top of the side, and dipping it backward and downward over the seat, and inward to the back of the thigh. By so doing, the original back center is thrown over the line, and is cut off as back slope; and whatever the back has been thrown downward, and, has lost in length, is allowed again on the top, and is usually termed “extra length of back.”

When the pants are on the body, both front and back are alike in length as far as the fit is concerned, but we may make the back an inch longer for nice appearance, and it is usually so done. That portion which stands off on, or around the back, on such a sheet, is reduced by one or two gores in the back. The extra length of the back is taken up by winding around the seat, and well-adjusted or well-balanced pants will always fit there. I claim that the angle of 7½ deg., with an artificial wedge across the seat, will produce this result every time, as shown in Dia. [XIV].

With the help of Dia. [XIX], [XX] and [XXI], there should be no difficulty in cutting a pair of pants that will be a pleasure to wear; but, as in all things, there must also be harmony between the cutting and making, and for this purpose I will add, that all diagrams and patterns issued by a reliable publisher of fashions are calculated to be cut from nice material, which requires small seams. Their pants are to be made up without lining, which allows them to give in every direction; and they are also calculated to be worn over nice-fitting under-clothing. In fact, they are calculated for fine trade, and they are made by tailors, who receive about $3.00 pay per pair for making. Therefore, when such a pattern is sent out, and pants are made from cheap goods with large seams, and in all probability lined with heavy muslin, the result is, that the customer cannot wear them. Then, again, one cutter may perhaps allow a little extra here, and another allow a little there, and the pants in the end may be large enough—but where is the city style and the neat fit?

The same is true as to coats and vests. Reports of fashions are intended for fine work, and all that this term implies; and a cutter who uses such patterns to make a pair of pants for a man who works in a ditch must allow more fork and more seat length as well as more width for the upper body—all allowed on the side. Extra looseness for the upper body is best provided by allowing all at the side, where it may hang loose but smooth; but if the extra width is allowed in the fork, it will remain there on a twist, and it may even cut the seat, if only allowed above the fork. Allowing extra width above the fork is almost as bad as to allow extra width at the front of the armhole, which allowance would really make the hole smaller.

From the crotch downward the whole leg must conform to the slope of the angle of 7½ deg., because the relation of the crotch and the ankles change very little except on deformed persons. Some persons may throw their feet a little further apart than others when walking, and the center of the body may be considered at the inside ankles, or one inch from each inside ankle, just as a person may place his feet while standing naturally. But when walking, the center of each half body is in the center of each leg, for by each step one leg makes the whole body must throw itself upon the center of the other leg, or else the body would tumble over. This can be best observed in slow walking, while by fast running it is not noticed. Any person who walks slowly throws his upper body more to a position of standing on one leg, than a fast runner, hence the slow walker is seen wabbling his head from one side to the other by every step, the same as a goose.

In this work the pants are calculated each leg for itself, and each leg has its own base; and they are so adjusted, that a person can stand, walk, jump, run, sit, etc., and it must be understood that when a pants is on the body the base goes with the leg, so that the base runs straight down when the person makes a step, or when he stands on one leg; but when he stands on both legs the base will naturally run a trifle sidewise at the ankles, and consequently a true plumb line pant base can not be found, except for one position of the leg only, and the position of the bases, as given in this work, are as near correct as any can be established, and from which any particular shape of pants may be shaped. As for instance: Riding pants require more fork, so that the rider can spread his legs sidewise. Sailor pants require more width at the bottom, and that width must be allowed on the outside, or else such pants would strike each other at every step. For all such and other changes we have a base to work from, and after all such changes are made we must see that provision is made to sew the parts correctly together, by carefully nicking the seams.

The center of gravitation in a pair of pants may be considered to exist at the points of the angles, which are eighty numbers below the top of the waist, hence a sweep from the point will make a true connection at any point of the leg, and such sweeps can be depended upon no matter how narrow the fore part, or how wide the back is cut, and especially so when laid out like Diagrams [XIV] and [XV]. Now, to make a draft from that point for every pants or pattern we cut, would be inconvenient, neither is it required that it should be done, except for practice; but when a cutter knows a center which is infallible, he is certainly better off than if he knows no such center. A sensible person, if he cannot do just as he wants to, will do the best he can; and, so in this case, there are several ways open for operations.

1st. Cut both the front and back of equal width at the knee, and notch there; then measure upward and downward.