Garment cutting in the twentieth century

by Günther F. Hertzer

The above calculation is here given for the purpose of showing how close the diameter and the circumference of the thigh correspond to the angle of 7½ deg. as used in this work. It also shows that a larger thigh, say of 7 inches diameter, produces more cloth in proportion to a smaller thigh of say 5 inches diameter, and that the addition of 2½ inches to each and all half seat measures will give a good balance for all sizes. But for reasons explained elsewhere, boys should have plenty fork, and when we come below size 28, we should give all that is consistent with a very open cut of the fork. The largest sizes may be cut according to the scale and to Dia. [XX].

At the knee the same proportion of 4 diameters will hold good. Let us accept the diameter of the knee of a seat size of 36 as 4½ in., and allowing 4 times 4½ in., we have 18 in., from which is to be taken off 1 in. for seams, and we have 17 in. left, which is enough to cover the leg. But we find that for a 30 size the knee would not be large enough for the purpose, and an addition must be made according to the measure, and the contrary is the case on larger sizes, as shown in Dia. [XX].

At the bottoms we find the same calculation to be true, for if we take the diameter of the ankle to be 3 in. for size 36, the 4 times 3 in. will give us 12 in., and after 1 in. is used up for seams, we have about the actual circumference of the bare ankle, and whatever boot, style or notion requires more, is allowed equally on both sides, except on sailor pants, which must have more on the outside, and the inside must have a reasonable allowance only.

Dia. [XIX] is made from a pattern of 38 seat size, and 33 actual waist measure, but the waist made up will be 34½ to 35 in., and which may be called a normal waist. The back seam must be cut on a gentle curve on and over the seat lines, because the curved edge over the seat seam will become straight while winding around the seat. That portion of the side seam between the calf and the seat line, must be regulated according to the measure of the knee. Whenever the style requires a large knee, the side of the thigh must have more width, starting at the seat line and running down to below the knee, so that it can spread in such a manner that both front and back will possess a smooth even slope. Extra width there will not show, but will hang there as though the body would fill it out. When a person assumes a sitting posture the width from the outside will go backward just as easily as the width from the inseam will go backward, and the extra width will not interfere with the side of the thigh; but extra width at the back curve, at line 8, will do harm,—in fact it will interfere with the seat, unless it can be spread also.

To be successful in cutting pants, a cutter must be able to produce a close-fitting one, and when he can do that he must be able to use the close-fitting pants as a base for a loose-fitting one without losing the balance. After a cutter can do this he is not yet done, for then comes those tasty touches, which consist in his ability to harmonize thigh and knee and bottom for each particular customer, and which cannot be learned from the books, but must gradually come to him through experience and attention to business.

A narrow leg must be shaped according to the shape of the knee, and should be held a trifle full over the knee, say about 4 in. above and 4 in. below the center; but that “fulling” must be equal on both sides and carefully notched, so that the maker cannot throw the leg out of shape. The best way to notch the seams is to notch equally about 5 in. above and the same distance below the knee, and then measure down equally to within 5 or 6 in. of the bottom, and notch again. Within these 5 or 6 in. above the bottom all stretching of the side of the fore part must be done for spring-bottom pants. These may seem quite too many trifles to attend to, but a few notches are soon made, and if a leg twists it will perhaps take hours to alter it,—often it will become worse in altering. A small leg should also have a trifle curve or spread at the outside seam, over the side of the calf, while the inside is perfectly straight, except what is required for the shoe or boot or style, and a close-fitting pants must also be stretched at the back crease line over the calf. Cutters, and tailors as well, must study the form of the body from neck to ankle, and their ideas must harmonize as to what that form requires.

A line may be struck anywhere on a pattern and used as a base to work from. A line may be struck from the top of the side to the inside ankle, and the same thing can be produced on a larger or smaller scale. But such a line is only an imaginary base. A line to be worthy of the name “Base” must correspond to certain angles, or certain edges or slopes of the body, and for this reason I claim that the angles of 7½ or 15 deg. are perfect bases for cutting pants, because they correspond to the slope of the sides of the legs. Now, when we receive a new work, or a new diagram, or a new pattern, from our latest fashion reports, we find a line here on one, and a line there on the other, which they use as bases, and both may be right; but unless they show distinctly why it is a certain distance from one point to another, and why the lines are just so and not otherwise, all parts and points must remain uncertain quantities with the uninitiated when the pants is to be made either larger or smaller at the waist or at the knee.

In using the angle of 7½ or 10 deg. for cutting pants, the base is clearly indicated, and either line of its different divisions may be used as a base. As a proof that the angle of 7½ deg. is a true base for all pants, is the fact, that after the pants pattern is marked out, as in Dia. [XIX], [XX] and [XXI], and the sweeps for notches are made from the point of the angles, the point of the angle may be used as a pivot, and the forepart may be thrown forward so that more back slope will be observed, or the forepart may be thrown sidewise so that less or no back slope may be the result; and in both cases all points will change their relation, except the sweeps from the point. What one side loses the other side gains. If all other points are correctly balanced it matters not how large or how small the back slope or the fork of the pants may be made, or where the seams are located. (See Dia. [XXII] and [XXIII].)

If a cutter goes to the trouble to mark a line for every degree or fraction thereof, and draw stitches in them, he will find that the legs will fold, or can be pressed into shape, on any of these lines, and on no other. When such a pants leg is sewed together, it may be turned in almost any position, with or without back slope, and will always turn from the point of the angle, though cut off at the ankles; and the sweeps at the knee, or at other points, swept from the point of the angle, will always fit together. And when the garment is upon the body, such sweeps will be horizontal lines all around the form, and no horizontal line can be produced from any other point, either by square or by sweeps.

The above reasoning ought to settle the question of back slope, which has been the great conundrum for the last century. I have gone through a great many tribulations in cutting pants, and other garments, and it may be that I have killed more garments than anyone else, but I determined to solve the question if life permitted, and I claim that I have been rewarded. Looking back over a forty-year struggle, I feel that kind Providence has treated me very kindly, though in disguise, by refusing to let me succeed years ago; for in that case, I suppose, I would never have thought of trying to discover anything better.