Garment cutting in the twentieth century

by Günther F. Hertzer

This article was written as long as ten years ago, and I have often thought to omit it, but have come to the conclusion that it is worthy of a place, and in fact, I may build better than I expect. Dia. [V], [VI], [IX], and all others with a square of 17½ represent the diameter of the shoulders from side to side, either on the half, as Dia. [V] and [VI], or the full, as in Dia. [IX] and others. Fig. [I] represents the full diameter, but cut in two at the center of the body. The width of the shoulders may be measured, but ordinarily that measure may depend more upon the condition of the garment over which it is to be taken, than upon the body itself. As a rule, that measure should be taken only for extremely narrow or extremely broad shoulders, and even then, there must be a good deal of guess work. As long as we allow the width of the shoulders 9¼ at 60 deg. we will never miss the mark from size 35 down to the smaller sizes. When we come to size 40 we have enough with 9 to 9½. Forty-three is plenty wide with scant 9, and size 50 is large enough with 8¾. Here is a difference of ½ number on each side of the coat, in 25 sizes, and that calculation can be depended upon. The width of the shoulders does not grow in proportion to the circumference of the breast, and in cases of doubt as to how much to allow at 60 deg., it is better to allow ¼ inch too little than ¼ inch too much. A shoulder which hangs too far over to the arm, and which is often noticed on large sizes, is worse than a shoulder which is too narrow. Again, a broad shoulder requires a scant sleeve head, while a narrow shoulder can stand more fullness on the sleeve head.

But I have started out to describe the shoulder of a man, as they may be narrow or broad, and in order to be quite plain, I will take up size 35, and use the term inches, for this particular article. On a draft of a size 35 the width of one shoulder, from back to side, is about 8 in., and which is ¾ inches less than the half square of 17½, but the ¾ inches are used up for seams. On top of the shoulders, the body is nearly flat, both across the back and front, and it is quite flat on a great many persons, but for our purpose all may be called entirely flat, and that part can be measured with a straight edge when the coat is on the body.

On this part, and above, the coat must swing the same as a piece of cloth will swing on a straight pole. If that part of a coat fits nicely, a great many other faults are usually forgiven, but if the shoulder breaks somewhere, complaint will be made. It will be seen by this, that the square of 17½ is not an imaginary quantity, but that it is in actual harmony with the shoulders, the same as the angle of 15 deg. is in harmony with the forward slope of the center of front. There is the square for a regular part of the form, and the angle of 15 deg. is for a irregular part.

On the lines of the square of 17½ a coat or vest can be folded up flat, and this can best be seen on a vest, which has no sleeves to hinder it from folding flat. A good-fitting vest can be folded up, on the square of 17½, and laid on a flat table, and it may lie there for ages without wrinkling, but can not be so folded on any other square. The angle of 15 deg., or the front part will always run forward of the center of the back, when folded up. When a garment is put on the body, it has to perform two distinct motions, and the center of the back must be considered the hinge on which the coat swings, just as a door swings on its hinges. From the center of the back the garment is swung sidewise, and locates from back to side, not from back to front, and for this reason must be fitted on straight lines in the back and in the front. From the side of the back, the garment is swung forward to the side of front, and both side of back and side of front may be called hinges again, because the body is really flat between all these points, and from the side of front the garment is swung again to the center of the front, where it runs up and down parallel with the center of the back. While it makes this motion it loses nothing in length, but its whole width of 20 in. will be divided between the two half diameters of the shoulders sidewise, and between the diameter from back to front.

The upper part, or that portion of a garment which is located on top of the shoulders, must perform a different motion. While the lower part swings around the body in a circle, the upper parts move on straight lines, on which the whole back is swung forward and the whole front is swung backward until they both meet. The shoulders lose in length, but nothing in width, which remains the same on the body as it was on the flat table. A garment must swing, and balance itself on the diameter of the shoulders, and there a coat must fit the body, and perhaps this is the only place where a garment should actually fit, as far as the conception of an actual fit goes, in garment fitting.

But now, we must consider a broad and a narrow shoulder, and observe the results of putting the same coat on both forms: The center of the back can not give, and the cloth must be thrown over the shoulders forward, and in a circle; and if anything is in the way which takes up more cloth, like a broader shoulder, which throws it sidewise, the front will be the loser, that is, the front will be too small. Here may be found one of the reasons why some men require a larger coat in proportion to their breast measure than others. The broader shoulder requires a larger coat around the sides and armhole than the narrow shoulder, because the broad shoulder throws more cloth in that direction, but the measure around the solid chest indicates nothing of that kind.

Let us suppose we have before us a man to be measured for a coat, and when we observe him, we make up our minds that he measures 40 inches breast. We draw the tape and it records 38. We measure again with the same result. Next we take the proof measures, and we take the so-called upper and lower shoulder measure, short measures, long measures, and what not measures, then we add and subtract again, according to our learning, and then we cut the coat very carefully, so that every fraction of the proof measures conform to our lines; and when the coat is done and the customer puts it on, behold! it is too small all over, the coat is thrown onto the shelf, and afterward sold for half price, notwithstanding that it was cut promptly to the balance measures. On a narrow shoulder we observe the contrary results as to the fit, and we will always find that a narrow-shouldered person can wear a smaller coat around the arms and the back.

In regard to a narrow shoulder, we may consider the form of an erect and full-breasted male and that of a female. As far as the upper part of the body is concerned, they must both be treated on the same principle. According to their breast measures, both need a smaller coat around the arms and back and a larger portion must be allowed in front of the breast. Strip a female’s breasts, and she will measure several inches less, and that amount has to be taken off in front, and that form will correspond to the form of an average male form. Now, to fit a female with a coat draft for a male, we must use a 34 pattern for a 36 breast, and allow 1 in. over the front of each half garment, and reduce, by gores, whatever the waist is smaller in front and below the fullest part of the breast. A coat for a full-breasted male must be treated on the same principle, only less prominent.

I do not claim to know much about cutting and fitting garments for females. That takes quite another calculation, but if I would start in to-day to learn to fit garments for females I would start out by taking a draft for a man’s coat for my guide, and use a scale of 2 to 3 sizes less for the female; allow 1 to 1½ in. at the front of each half breast and reduce at least 1½ in. at the waist below each breast. I would not change the shoulders, nor the hollow of the back, except the location of the seams, but I would go to work and find the normal proportion between the waist and the hips of a female, and thus produce spring enough over the hips, which nature has wisely provided very large for females. The center of back and front I would cut nearly on the same plan as Dia. [II], only more prominent behind.