The front and the bottom of a double-breasted vest requires especial attention, in order that the parts which lap under, or over, do not show the front corners on each side, or that the top side runs too high up. Rounding off the corners pretty well will remedy the evil to some extent, but it does not look well, or a customer may order an even bottom of front, as in fact, all such vests should be.
The following will make a good front: Sweep from the point of the angle of 135 deg. through the bottom of the front angle of 15 deg., and add say ⅛ to ¼ inch more roundness to the bottom at the center between the front edge and the buttons. That sweep may be used for the whole bottom of the front. From the front line go back 2½ in. for the button line, and allow in front of line 9 1⅞ in., and on the bottom allow 1 in. in front of the front line, and draw a straight line for that front edge. If the lap is to be more or less, set the buttons that much backward or forward as the case may be. A double-breasted vest which is to button clear up to the neck must have at least a gore of 2 in. under the lapel, and the top button must be set back as far as the width of the lapel. A double-breasted vest should have a small gore under the collar, even if the collar is low down, and the depth of the collar must be made according to the measure, and the collar itself may be made straight or with a large curve the same as shown on Dia. [IV].
The sweep from the point of the angle of 135 deg. will give the whole bottom of the forepart as shown on Dia. [XI] and [XII], and the double-breasted front may be shaped just like it, but may have a trifle more in the center of the angle of 15 deg., and that trifle may be obtained complete by a sweep from 3¾ on the plumb base line through the front angle of 15 deg. only. It should be observed that each particular double-breasted vest requires particular care, in order that the bottom of the front, as well as the front itself, and the collar is correct, and that the buttons are on their places. If it is desired to sink the front down further than the sweeps, add equal distance, say ½ inch at the button line and at the front edge, and both will remain in balance. It will also be found that a double-breasted vest can be improved, by making the back 14½ long above line 9, because the front will have a better chance to settle in its proper place.
Nor should it be forgotten that a double-breasted vest, which has to lap over the oval center of front, can not set without a break somewhere, unless there is a gore cut at the waist, or under the collar; or, the front is drawn in pretty well under the collar, which is the same thing as cutting a gore. (See [Supplement].)
Frock and Sack Coats and Vests.
