The breast measure is to be taken over the undercoat, but close. The difference between an undercoat and an overcoat is just as much as the difference between a vest and an undercoat, and though all three garments pass over the same surface, and must fit the same body, each one has a different function to perform, and each of them is used for a different purpose. In comparing the vest and frock coat on the angle of 15 deg., we find that the vest has a gore under the arm at line 17½ of say 3¼, while the frock undercoat has only about 2 numbers cut out in both gores, and, besides, the waist seam of the frock is to be stretched from ½ to ¾ inches—all of which will make the half frock coat about 2 in. larger over the hips than the vest. The frock overcoat requires the full angle of 15 deg. at the under arm cut and at line 17½, and a trifle lap at line 20. Besides, there may be a trifle more width allowed in the center of the back as well as in the gore between the sidepiece and back, say from ¼ to ⅜ at each point, all of which constitutes the difference at the side and back of waist between the vest, undercoat and overcoat. As long as the front of the overcoat falls straight downward ½ inch more or less such width amounts to very little, because the coat being open in front the buttons may be set forward or backward. If coats were open behind there would never be any trouble to fit the back, but the cutter’s vexation would then be found in front.
Again, in comparing the vest, under and overcoats at the neck, we find another distinct difference. While the shoulder for a vest may be fitted with the angle of 135 deg., and could be produced equally as well without any shoulder seam, the undercoat requires say ½ inch spring toward the neck. The curving of the forepart at the shoulder seam is done to throw roundness toward the shoulder blade, for which purpose the shoulder seam is thrown backward at the arm. If the shoulder seam was located at the top of the shoulder, or where a vest shoulder seam is located, then that seam would admit of no curve, but would necessarily be cut straight, or with a spring toward the neck.
When a vest is finished, the collar will create a spring at the side of the neck, say about 1 in. on each side, which spring is required to turn upward and let the neck pass through. At and around the neck, there is perhaps a tie and a shirt collar, all of which is under the vest, and all require about ¾ spring on each side. Now, when an undercoat is worn over that vest and anything that is under it at the neck, it follows that the coat requires at least the same spring, and it must be produced as shown in the diagrams, and when we proceed further, and put on an overcoat over the undercoat, we must again make our provision for a spring at the side of the neck, particularly so when we know that the undercoat collar takes its full share of extra bulk at and around the neck.
The height or the top of back of the different garments must also be observed. While the top of a vest back is placed at three and three-fourths, the top of an undercoat back stands at three to three and a quarter, and the top of an overcoat back is at two and three-fourths to two and a half. The undercoat must cover the vest, say by at least half an inch, and the overcoat must cover the undercoat the same distance, and the nearer a garment comes to the neck the more spring is required at the side of the neck. No spring is required at the back of the neck, but at the side, and is put in by the aid of the shoulder seam, or by stretching the sides of the neck.
The foregoing descriptions correspond with the body, but they will amount to nothing if we destroy the relative balance of the front and bottom of the armhole. It is true all coats can be cut without that spring, by moving the fore part downward on the base until the two points meet; but by so doing all other points are changed, and new points will form. And while it is true that the new position of the points and parts will fit the same, it is equally true that the balance of the armhole and sleeve will also be destroyed, at least it will become necessary to readjust them, when each garment will then have a balance of its own. The purpose herein intended is to harmonize coats and vests on one base, and simply make the changes for each garment according to the requirements of the body at each particular point, and in all cases maintain the angle of 135 deg. and the balance of the armhole.
By saying that the balance of the armhole must be retained, I do not mean that the overcoat armhole must be cut just like that of the undercoat; on the contrary, an overcoat requires an armhole that is cut deeper as well as more forward. Cutting the armhole deeper, or more forward, does not destroy its balance as long as the sleeve follows. My reason why the armhole of an overcoat must be cut deeper and more forward, and consequently larger, than what will be obtained by a scale say 2 in. larger than the undercoat, is this: The armhole of an undercoat is always larger than the arm itself, and the body of the undercoat is also cut larger than the body itself, even over the vest. Undercoats are made up the heaviest at and around the armhole, and if any padding or wadding is put in, it is at the armholes and shoulders. All of which requires the overcoat armhole to be larger in proportion than the difference as obtained between the measure over the vest and over the undercoat. Besides, an overcoat to be comfortable must be looser in comparison with the undercoat—not only in the arms, but over the hips and seat. We may cut our armholes as large as we please, but if the coat has not enough cloth over the hips and seat the front of the armhole will be drawn backward, and it will strike the arm and cut it; and behind and below the arm, the back will appear too long and too wide, all of which will correct itself, if more width is given over the hips and seat. After all other parts are properly balanced, the overcoat armhole ought to be from ¼ to ⅜ deeper and more forward than that given by the scale for the undercoat.
In this connection I will repeat, that for the undercoat the normal form may have the armhole 2 seams back of the angle of 45 deg., and at the bottom the armhole may be from ⅝ to 1 in. above lines 9 and 11¼. The overcoat requires about ½ inch more, forward and downward, and in all cases the sleeve must follow by striking a line for the sleeve base 2 seams in front of the armhole, without disturbing the center of the back sleeve seam at 8.
All this must be observed in cutting any under or overcoat, because as soon as the armhole is cut forward the sleeve must follow in width, which must be started at the highest point of the top sleeve, and allowing all around in front. All calculations backward as to the center of the sleeve behind must be made from the same point for all, and which point is a right angle from the center of the back through the point of the angle of 135 deg.,—for all of which further explanation will be found in the Article on “[Armhole and Sleeves].”