Dia. [X] is a five-seamer overcoat for the normal, but leaning toward the erect form. The armhole is cut full forward to 45 deg., and the sleeve base moved forward two seams, or ⅜ inches. The sleeve part of this diagram makes a close sleeve head, and a lap at 60 deg. may be made ¼ to ½ more, and at 45 deg. it may be made ¼ more or any amount required to make a nice curve. The bottom of the armhole is plenty low, and the gusset on the top of the under sleeve fits it. The width of the shoulders may be made 9 at 60 deg. A half-inch lap between the armhole and sleeve at the back sleeve center, or at line 8, will make the whole sleeve extra easy, though the back sleeve may hang a trifle loose when the arm hangs down, but this ½ inch extra length must not be accounted for in the sleeve-length.
The square of the coat is 18¾ only, which is ½ less than the regular calculation would bring it. An overcoat must be close-fitting, at and around the arm, though the armhole must be plenty large. Dia. [X] was made over a 39 pattern and if that same draft is measured and laid out with a scale of 38, the square will be 19¼, which 19¼ numbers correspond to the square of 18 on a three-seamer, taking in consideration the gore and the seams under the arm on a five-seamer. To cut over Dia. [X] the measure must be taken close over the undercoat, and the measure over the vest will make the fit not too close.
Dia. X.
DIA. Xa.
Is a three-seamed overcoat, and must be reproduced and made as fine work requires it, and the person who wears it must be well built, and with a rather small waist and seat. All clothing worn under the overcoat should be neat and well fitting. Erect persons should have the height of back at 13. The sleeve shown in Dia. [X] corresponds to Dia. [Xa]. The collar must be sewed on easy, on and along the sides. The whole front edge may be made ½ inch smaller than Dia. [X].
Dia. Xa.