Garment cutting in the twentieth century

by Günther F. Hertzer

Dia. [III] demonstrates this fact by the shorter back, and by the reduction of the back of the sidepiece, and by the wedge between the bottom of the sidepiece and the top of the skirt. I do not claim that it is just so, by every fraction of an inch, but I know that Dia. [III] will produce a coat that will fit the normal form, and is the same as Dia. [II]; and if anyone else would like to see it illustrated in a different way it would merely show that our ideas are running in different directions. But this would not change the principle.

Now, I will refer to the different effects produced if the wearer throws himself into a stooping or over-erect position when the garment is cut through at and across the hollow of the waist. By observing the backward and forward movements of the different forms, it cannot fail to show to the most critical observer that most all changes between the stooping and the erect form can be made by reducing the width and giving more length for the stooping, and by reducing length and giving more width for the erect form at the hollow of the waist; and no other change is required, unless a combination of abnormal conditions exists. The gore between the back and the sidepiece at the waist is an artificial gore, and should not be much changed for any form.

Most all changes between the stooping and erect forms may be made at the under arm seam, as follows: For the erect form, allow say ½ to ¾ inches at the side, and before sewing that seam up stretch the sidepiece say ¼ to ⅜ inches, which will shorten the back seam that much and throw the extra width behind where it belongs. For a stooping form, take off the same width at the side, and stretch the back seam of the sidepiece at, and just above, the hollow of the waist, but never enough to show the back full. The reason why I am opposed to changing much on the back seam of the sidepiece is, that that seam is always on a curve and it is very long, reaching clear down to the bottom of the coat, and is apt to be thrown clear out of gear by changing it. But the under arm cut is nearly straight, and short, and can better be managed. If a vest can be thrown in by that seam surely a frock coat can also. If the back is a trifle full at the sidepiece, and at the hollow of the waist, a coat will be made the better by it, and in no case should the back be stretched there. If the back requires shortening, it must be obtained by stretching the sidepiece on the forepart downward, or by folding up the pattern at the back of the sidepiece. The form of alteration depends upon the time it is to be made, either before the coat is cut, or after it is made.

To this article of erect forms may be added something about straight backs, at the neck, or from the shoulder blade upward. A long neck may lean forward and may then be classed among stooping forms, and must be stretched accordingly; that is, by lengthening the back only. But a long neck may shoot nearly straight up behind, in which case it must be classed among the erect forms.

Between a long neck leaning forward and a long neck shooting nearly straight up behind, there must be a difference in the shape of the top of the back. We all know that the top of the center of the back must be higher or at least as high as the side of the back, when the coat is on the body; still when the pattern is spread out on a flat surface, the neckhole is nearly a circle, and it will be a still more complete circle when the garment is on the body. It must run nearly in a circle because from the chest, shoulders and shoulder blades the body runs upward to a point, as shown in Fig. [I], but the garments are cut off at the neck. The broader the top of the back is cut, the more center sinks down behind, as shown in Dia. [V].

Now, the cutting down of the top and center of back must be done, because we intend to cut the shoulder seam where fashion requires it should be. As far as the fit is concerned, we might run the shoulder seam to within ½ in. of the center of back, in which case the center of the back would be the highest point. As backs are cut, the sides are the highest point on the flat table, but when on the body the center of back is the highest point, and we may just as well say that the top and center of back are the highest points, that this is the starting point, and that from this point the whole neckhole is thrown forward and downward, where it forms in a complete circle around the neck.

I am writing here about the neckhole proper, and not of the length of the back over the blade; and the above explanations are made to show that the so-called front shoulder point is anywhere we please to locate the shoulder seam, and again, I want to show that a straight back, or a straight neck behind, requires the top and center of back higher than a neck which leans forward.

Mr. J. B. West, in his “Grand Edition,” page 30, claims that the principle alteration from a normal to a stooping form consists in raising the center of the top of back (somewhere up to line A.) I certainly will not dispute the merits of Mr. West, but I must say that, like all mortals, he made mistakes, and the above is a “Grand Mistake,” especially when we read on page 5, that the problem he has worked on for fifteen years is now solved, and complete, and will stand without improvement, or alteration, as long as there is no change in the construction of the human form.

About thirty years have passed, and the human form has not changed, and still I claim, that the above alteration must be made in just a contrary way; that is, that the circle for the neckhole over the back must be more complete toward the center of back for a person who drops his neck downward and forward, and that the erect form or the straight form on the back of neck requires the circle straightened over the center of back, and will here repeat, that on the angle of 135 deg. a neckhole can be cut and fitted with a complete circle as seen in Dia. [XI] and [XII]. That part of the circle which passes through the back, say 2½ in. wide, sinks about ⅝ at the center of back, and this part must be straighter behind for a straighter neck, and may be made entirely straight for extremely straight backs.

Quite straight backs are usually long necks, and for such the center of back must be raised, whereas a short straight neck would require the sides lowered. How much more or less all this may be, must depend upon the judgment of the cutter, and as the whole thing turns within five-eighths of a number, a cutter cannot go far out of the way; but he should observe that a collar one half or even one quarter inch lower behind than at the sides, is a spoiled collar, and that a collar which is too high is easily cut down, but when it is too low it is hard to bring it up, unless there are outlets.