MODEL: DIA. [II].
Breast, 40; Waist, 40; Hip, 41½; Seat, 40; Length of legs, 30. The seat measure and the length of legs are noted for the purpose of giving a better impression of the form. Form: Erect—square shoulders—short neck—height of back above line 9 is 14½—top of back, 3¾—side of neck, 4—bottom of armhole, ⅜ above 11¼. No gore under the arm, but a spring of ½ inch at line 18¼, on which line is also the waist length of the back. The waist seam drops 1¾ in front; is even in front and side, but laps ¾ over the gore in the forepart, which is ½ inch, running up to line 15. Front: Quaker Cutaway, with no lapel—standing collar—front of neck at 3¾—notch in center of 15 deg.—for the button hole side allow ⅝ in front of base, and for the button side ½ more. In front of line 9, allow ½ for both sides and meet base again in front of 11¼. At 15 go forward 3¼—at 20, 2½. Meet plumb base at 26½ and go back 3 at line 32½. Drop bottom of skirt ¾ at the base. Shoulder laps ⅜ at the neck and ½ toward the blade. Gore between the back and sidepiece: ⅜ at the armhole—meet at 10½—½ at 11¼—⅞ at 14½, on back—1⅜ at 15—1⅝ at 18¼,—1¼ at 20—⅝ at 25—⅞ at 30. Center of back is hollowed out ⅜ at 17½, and at line 30 the finished hook is 1¼ out.
II.—FROCK COAT.
Breast, 36; waist, 31; seat, 36. Form: Erect—square shoulders—full breast—very hollow back, which causes the shoulder blade to appear pretty prominent—waist diameter very small from side to side. This is a form which mostly has its coat back too long or too wide, and requires quite a close breast measure, or a small square and a full breast. An apparently long coat back behind the arm is caused when the seat has not enough spring. Model: Dia. [II]. Square of 17½. The height of back above line 9 over the front is 15 numbers—top of back 3½—side of neck 4. The shoulder seam is even at both neck and armhole, but toward the blade there is a lap of ½ inch, and which seam is for the square shoulder. Under-arm gore: ½ at line 15—⅞ at 17½—1 at line 18⅝, which is the length for the waist on the back—⅞ at 20. For the contracted waist length behind, the top of skirt, and the bottom of the back sidepiece seam is even, but lap ⅜ at the underarm gore—1 at the plumb line base—¾ in front. The bottom of the sidepiece is ⅜ higher behind, but when the coat is on, the run of the waist seam is even, on the erect form. At the waist the forepart has a gore of 1¼ starting at line 15. The front of breast is 1⅜ in front of 9—meets the front angle in front of line 15—and strikes the base at 32 for a cutaway. Spring center of back out from line 15: ½ at 20—1 at 25—1⅝ at 30, and then allow 1 in. for the hook. Gore between sidepiece and back: ¼ at the armhole—meets at 10½ on back—¾ at 11¼ over the front—1¼ at 15 on back—1½ at 15 over the front—1¼ at 17½—⅞ at 20—¾ at 25—¾ at 30.
III.—FROCK COAT.
Breast, 34, close measure; waist, 30; seat, 34½; length of legs, 29. Form: Erect—long neck—flat shoulder blades—all normal cut coats fall away from his neck—are too long and too wide in the back and too small in the breast. Model: Dia. [II]—the square was made 17¾—top of back 2⅝—side of neck 3—shoulders lap ⅞ at the neck and ½ toward the blade—height of back above line 9, 14½ numbers. Gore between back and sidepiece: ¾ at armhole—meets at line 11—½ at line 9 and 14½—¾ at 15—1 at 17½—⅝ at 20—meet again at 25 to 30—¼ at 35. Spring back from 15—allow ¾ at 25—1¼ at 30—and allow for the hook. The front is straight—single-breasted—the lapel is 3 in front of the base on top—3¾ in front of 11¼—meets the front angle at 15½—thence parallel with the plumb base. The waist seam is even at the underarm cut—skirt and front laps 1 at line 20, running so forward. Bottom of skirt sinks ½ in front. The vest had ¾ lap at the shoulder seam toward the neck and top of back was placed at 3⅛, and had a spring of 1¼ at the center of back at line 20. The vest was cut size 33, and ¼ inch allowed in front of the breast, which accounts for the small square and the full breast.
IV. MODEL: DIA. [II].
Breast, 35; waist, 33; seat, 35. Form: A combination of stooping and erect—neck bends forward—arms thrown backward—shoulders thrown up and square—very hollow at the back of the waist but erect there—shoulder blades prominent—seat shows very little at the back—front of waist and front of thigh thrown forward—top of back 3¼—side of neck 3⅝—shoulder laps ⅜ at the neck—⅝ toward the blade. Side of shoulder 9⅛ at 60 deg. Height of back above line 9 is 15⅜. Underarm gore, ⅛ on line 9—½ at line 15—1 at 17½—¾ at 20. Gore between the back and sidepiece: ½ at the armhole—meet at 11½ on the back—½ at 11¼—¾ at 15⅜—1 at 15 over the front—1⅜ at 17½—1¼ at 20—½ at 25—¼ at 30—¼ at 35. The forepart has a gore of ½ at the waist seam, and the same gore between the skirt and forepart in front. Center of back: From 15⅜ upward allow ⅛ outside of the base, and come even again on top—from 15⅜ downward go inward of the base ¼ at 17½—meet again at 22—go out ⅜ at 30—⅝ at 35 for the center and allow for the hook, etc. Front: In front of 9 allow 1—meet front edge and front angle at 14—go out 3¼ at 20—1½ at 30—meet at 35. Sink front of skirt ⅝, and no lap between skirt and forepart at the waist seam except to straighten the forepart over the gore.
V.—LARGE-WAISTED SACK COAT.
MODEL: DIA. [VIIIA].