Garment cutting in the twentieth century

by Günther F. Hertzer

Now, while I am describing “Odd Forms,” which in reality are not odd at all, only a trifle different from the so-called normal form, it may be well, to point out another fact: For coats and vests all large-waisted forms require either a proportionately smaller scale with extra allowance in front of the breast, or if the measure and the scale are used the same as on a small-waisted form, the square must be made smaller, and the front must be that much larger.

It is the same on the full-breasted and on the erect forms, and the description of Forms [V] and [VI], as well as Dia. [VIIIa], with their different squares ought to be sufficient to give a general idea of what is to be taken off behind in the square, and what is to be allowed in front. Large-waisted persons have mostly erect forms even if they should have prominent shoulder blades, or throw their necks down in front. At the hollow of waist they may be considered erect and mostly throw their arms backward, and all such forms require a smaller square and a larger breast. The best way to measure is this: Take all measures even and close, and reduce the square, and enlarge the breast according to the above description, and according to your judgment, and remember, that ½ inch more, or ½ inch less in the breast, or in the square, may be considered the outside limit, and that ¼ inch goes a good ways.

In regard to the amount, you better learn to depend upon your judgment, for if that should be ever so poor, it will be better than a so-called proof or balance measure, from the center of back forward. That measure, even if taken with the utmost care, will mostly depend upon the coat which the person wears, and not upon the body, which is to be fitted.

Low Shoulders.

Low shoulders and long necks are the same. Dia. [IX] shows the correct alteration for such forms as well as for the stooping form. The body between the arm and neck becomes longer than usual, and consequently the coat must be lengthened on each back and front alike. Attempting to cut the shoulders lower at the arm will never lift the coat up to the neck. If that alteration is correctly made no other portion is to be altered. All allowance for a longer neck should be given sparingly, as ¼ in. on each back and each front goes a great ways; only extremes may require more, and from ⅜ to ½ in. may be called correct for the average long neck. The front of the neck hole should not be raised on a long neck, for the very length of neck requires extra depth there. Addition for a longer neck should be started at the middle of the shoulder seam, as indicated by dotted lines in Dia. [IX].

Raising the side of the back up higher requires the center of the back higher also, all of which may be run out to nothing at the sleeve base. Adding say ½ in. to the top of the neck will make the shoulder look broader, that is, the shoulder on top of the slope will contain more space from arm to neck, though the diameter of the shoulders from side to side may not be any larger. The armhole must be considered the same for all long or short necks, and the changes must be made upward, and above the armhole, as shown in Dia. [IX], and if that is correct, the so-called “front shoulder point” exists in the imagination of each individual cutter only.

If the shoulders and the neck of all men were formed the same, there would be very little trouble to fit coats. But the longer, or shorter, or forward or backward leaning neck play smash with the fitting points. All kinds of imaginary proof measures have been invented, but they all will prove that they are not proof, unless the measure is a straight one, either horizontal, or perpendicular, or parallel. The proof measure, as shown in Fig. [I], and which consists of the application of the angle of 135 deg., is a new measure, of my own invention, and it will do away with all the so-called long or short balance measures which have been used for the last century.