New York, October, 1849.
CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I. | |
|---|---|
| PAGE | |
| We sail from Boston, and how we felt.—Cure for Sea-Sickness.—Delights of the Ocean.—Crossing the Equator.—What the Mess was composed of.—We become reconciled to our Fate.—Pass Cape Frio, and have no Inclination to bivouac on the Rocks. | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Rio Janeiro, and what is to be seen there.—Life in the City.—Diamonds and Levites.—Police.—Cookery and Currency.—The Omnibus Jehu to Boto Fogo. | [9] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Gloria Hill.—Il Cateto.—Architecture.—Visit from a Scorpion, and the Habits of other Reptiles.—The Opera.—The Emperor and Court.—The Brazilians think of carrying the War into Africa. | [16] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| We leave Rio, and march towards the Horn.—Man overboard and drowned.—La Plata.—We take an Albatross.—Terra del Fuego.—Pitch of the Cape.—A Marine dies.—How the Yankee Corvette doubled Cape Horn.—What we did for Pastime. —Dr.Faustus.—The Island of Chiloe. | [20] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Valparaiso.—Bell of Quillota and Tupongati.—Where and how the Town is built. —Birlochea.—Shops.—TheTerraces.—El Almendral.—Carmencita.—Creole Ladies.—Tertulias.—The Samacuéca.—Climate.—Dust.—The Donçella who caught a Flea, and how she did it.—General Bulnes.—Army.—Government and Resources.—True Elements of Happiness. | [27] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Weigh Anchor, with some Trouble and Broken Bones.—Bid adieu to Pleasures of the Shore.—Islands of St. Ambrose and Felix.—We lose some Shipmates.—Alta California.—Monterey. | [39] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Summary of Events Preceding our Arrival.—Difficulties between Fremont and Castro.—Operations of Naval Forces.—Skirmish at San Pascual.—Battles of San Gabriel and La Mesa.—The Volunteers Disbanded. | [41] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Town of Monterey.—Our First Impressions.—Days of Barricades.—Sentinels.—The Rocky-Mountain Men.—Keg of Whiskey, and the Use it was put to.—The Trapper's little Anecdote concerning Old Ginger and the Indians. | [47] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Treaty of Los Angeles.—The Lady that had a Strange Taste In Jewelry.—The Disregard of Soap in those Countries.—Visit to an Extensive Establishment.—The Doña herself, with her Small Family and Prospects. | [53] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Mission of Carmelo.—Tramp in the Mountains.—Wolves and Venison.—We become bewildered, but encounter a Guide.—Boudoirs for Damsels.—The Fandango.—How the Gentlemen amused themselves.—We take to Hunting for Pastime.—Climate.—Juaquinito and his Mama.—Plains of Salinas.—Bill Anderson, his Windmill and History.—Wild Geese.—Native Entertainment. | [58] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Maritime Alps of California.—Entrance to Bay of San Francisco.—Yerbabuena. —Society.—Prankson Horses.—Saddles.—New York Regiment.—The Cannibal Emigrants, and the Dutchman's Appetite; with Baptiste's Remarks thereon.—Perils of Emigration. | [69] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Sousoulito.—The Belle of California.—The Bears of the same, who chase us.—Angel Island.—Deer and Elk Shooting. | [76] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Monterey again.—The Pioneer Newspaper, with the Editor, Dr. Semple.—We Sail for the Mexican Coast.—Island of Guadalupe.—Peninsular of Lower California. —Jesuits.—Trade.—Portsand Resources.—We blockade Mazatlan.—Reconnoissance, and the Ballet that ensued.—Yankee Bombs.—The Ladies deceive us.—The Chased Diana. | [82] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| Cruise of the Rosita.—Anchorage of Venados.—The Oyster-boat.—We received a Hostage in Doctor Barret, and learn his Misfortunes.—Change of Position.—We take a Prize, and afterwards nearly taken for another.—Set fire to the Dried Grass.—A False Alarm.—The Fish that broke Pat's Nose.—Our Supper and Attendants.—The Commodore orders us Home. | [89] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| Period of the Blockade of Mazatlan.—The Commandante, Telles; his Habits and Hospitalities.—The Frigate takes her Departure.—The Shark.—Anchor in Monterey the Third Time. | [99] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Dispatches and Equipments.—Californian Gamesters.—The Vacuero.—Don Herman. —TheYouthful Mother and her Gay Deceiver.—We Sup on Eggs.—Murphy's Rancho.—Pretty Ellen.—Picturesque Location.—Puebla.—Santa Clara.—Priests and Indians.—Ladies drying Beef.—Reach Yerbabuena. | [102] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Sail up the Bay.—Embarcadera of San José.—We sleep at a Rancho.—Don Ignacio proves to be a Scamp.—Puebla.—Architecture and Agriculture.—Mission of Santa Clara.—The Cannonier.—The Padres.—The Dandies.—We attend Mass.—"The Forwardest Gall of the Mission."—Bear Hunt with Dan Murphy.—Rustic Politeness.—Mission of San Juan.—The Gascon.—Crescencia is taken with Fits.—Empirical Practice.—Get back to Monterey. | [111] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| San Francisco once more.—Head Waters.—Bay of San Pablo.—Village of Sinoma. Vallejo.—Captain Swayback.—Hunting.—We Kill an Antelope.—Straits of Carquinez. —Cityof Benecia.—Mares Island.—Tulares Valley. | [122] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| California becomes tranquil, and the Columbus sails for Home.—Sailors drilled on Shore.—We Return to Monterey.—Town increasing.—The Reverend Alcalde, and how he collected Treasure.—Indians hung.—Diet and Games of the same.—Merendas. | [130] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| Final Adieu to Monterey.—Reach Cape San Blas, and San José.—We visit Alcaldes, and how they passed their Leisure.—Our First Search for the Enemy.—When we are offered a Baby, but decline.—Watering Ship, and other Pleasantries.—A Small Garrison landed to occupy San José. | [136] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| Demonstrations before Mazatlan.—Summons to Surrender.—We land Sailor Troops, and occupy the Town.—Positions and Selections for Defence.—Land Ordnance.—Ayuntamientos.—Mexican Morality.—Piety of the People.—Climate and Diseases. | [142] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| Burning Launches.—Skirmishing.—A Reefer's Idea of Bullets.—The Retreat.—We lose the Road, and are scared.—Affair at Urias.—Ambuscade.—Escaramuza. Flight.—Burial of the Slain.—We are presented with a Black Charger, and return to the Port. | [150] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| Duties of a Garrison.—The Garita.—We Make a Night March, and Surprise Ligueras.—The Killed.—Lady with them.—Our Trophies.—The Commandante's Wife.—Is the Innocent Cause of Murdering a Horse.—False Alarm.—Another Night Skirmish; when the Guide gets a Bullet through his Head, and is Cursed by his Family. | [159] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| How they Marry in Mazatlan.—Fights with Cuchillos.—The Man who is divested of part of his Scalp and Ear.—Cures effected.—Flying Trip to Urias.—Where we take General Urrea's Orderly.—Who is afterwards set free. | [168] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| Mexican Troop pronounce against their Leaders.—We become Poverty Stricken. —Lancersattempt to run the Gauntlet, and carry away some Buckshot.—Description of the Casa Blanca, and how we behaved.—Madre Maria and Pretty Juana.—The Elite of the Town, who praise us for not beating our Wives. | [173] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| Dolores and her Lover; who is wounded; and who is a Coward.—Lola dies and is buried. | [182] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| El Tigre del Norte.—Mr. Bill Foley.—Sociedads.—Circus.—Monté.—Golden Toad. —Carnival.—Intercoursewith Foreign Society.—Hauson and the Hern Hutter. Don Guillermo.—While moralising one night we are nearly impaled.—Our Little Housekeeper.—Pita.—Fandango de la Tripa.—Where a Lepero abstracts our Sword and Pistols. | [186] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| News of the Peace.—The Outsiders become complimentary, and pay a visit to Madre Maria.—With the Mounted Patrol and Captain Luigi we ride to Venadillo, and disturb the slumbers of Señor Valverde, who, with some hesitation, returns with us to the Port, being the last Prisoner of the War.—A Man deserts, and we go to the Presidio for him.—General Anaya and Officers.—Commissioners meet and depart in Dudgeon. | [194] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| Siege of San José.—Defences of Garrison.—The Summons and Parley.—The Storming Party.—Mijares Killed with his Forlorn Hope.—The Brave Whalemen. —Ambuscadeand Prisoners.—The Guerrillas begin the Second Siege.—Death of M'Lenahan.—The Garrison Beleaguered.—Arrival of the Cyane.—Battle and Relief. | [203] |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| We Begin a Journey to the City of Mexico.—Disembark at San Blas.—Ride to Tepic.—Cotton Mills of Barron, Forbes & Co.—Volcanic Masses.—Aquacatlan. —TheRed-hot Patriot.—Wake of Don Pancho.—Plan de Barrancas.—The Piece of Ordnance.—Muchatilti.—Madelena.—How Horses are Hired in the Republic.—Race with Banditti. | [216] |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | |
| Guadalajara.—Señor Llamas.—The Lovely Señora.—Plaza and Beauty.—The Great Bridge.—Old Cypriano's Superstition regarding Horses' Souls.—Tepetitlan. —Puéblosdel Rincon.—The Drowsy Commandante.—City of Leon.—Knife Duel.—Mexican Mesons, and the Society therein.—Illumination and Supper.—We take Coach and reach Guanajuato.—The English Mint and Machinery.—Gaming. —ScenicViews.—Pat is a Deserter.—Don Pancho.—Escape from Los Compadres. | [232] |
| CHAPTER XXXII. | |
| Querétaro.—Aqueduct.—Night ride by Post.—The United States Escort.—City of Mexico.—We are refused a Drive.—Cathedral.—Palace.—Plaza.—Museum.—Sacrificial Stone.—Manners and Customs in the Hells of Montezuma.—Chapultepec.—The Deep Spring where we bathed.—Moleno del Rey.—Paseo. | [251] |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. | |
| Bureau of Postes.—Depart from the Aztec Capital.—Exemptions of Government Extraordinarios.—Livery Stable Woman at Tepetitlan.—Invited to a Country Seat, and dine with Ladies.—We are afterwards kicked by a Horse, but continue the journey.—American Deserters.—Encounter Ladrons, and present our Passport.—Somebody killed by Mistake.—Excitement in Querétaro.—Traitors of San Patricio.—Official Visits.—The Dignitaries of the Republic.—Breakfast with a Brilliant Colonel.—The Alemeda.—We run a Joust.—Treaty signed. | [260] |
| CHAPTER XXXIV. | |
| Señor Rosa forgets our Escort, and we are scared and nearly coach-wrecked.—Mine of La Luz.—Pass through Guanajuato to Lagos.—A Pronunciamento.—Padre Jarauta, who treats us with contempt, and afterwards wishes to make an ejemplo.—We bid a Hasty Farewell.—An Ambulating Pulperia.—San Juan de Lagos.—Arrieros.—Puente Calderon.—Bathing in the Rio Grande.—The Rayo. | [275] |
| CHAPTER XXXV. | |
| Bull-fight at Guadalajara.—What Fools the Beasts are, and what Brutes the Men are.—La Comedia.—Antique Guide.—Execution of Robbers.—Tequilla.—Patron of the Meson and his Daughters.—Endurance of Mexican Soldiers.—Adaptability of Western Provinces for Military Operations.—La Nubarrada.—Horse Jockeying.—We are made Unhappy.—Bathing in Tepic.—Rio Grande and Santiago. —Showerof Water Melons.—Rio San Pedro.—Rosa Morada.—Acaponeta.—High Mass.—Tierra Caliente, and Old Tomas, the Poet.—We return to Mazatlan. | [287] |
| CHAPTER XXXVI. | |
| Don Guillermo and Señor Molinero.—The Olas Altas, and the gay scenes there enacted.—Thieves and Leperos.—How to learn Castilian.—Evacuation of Mazatlan by the U. S. Forces. | [307] |
| CHAPTER XXXVII. | |
| Sailing of the Squadron.—Cross the Gulf, and arrive in La Paz.—Appearance of Vegetation.—How we amused Ourselves.—Fandangos.—Ball on Shipboard.—Marine Pic Nic.—The Carrera.—The Uncivil Vacuero and his Rude Cattle.—The Chowder Party.—Perils and Pearl Fishing.—Hunting.—Game in Lower California. —TheCove of San Antonio, and Escape from Boatwreck. | [312] |
| CHAPTER XXXVIII. | |
| What the U. S. Government did to induce the Natives to lake up Arms.—The Volunteer who shot his Wife.—Little Sam Patch.—Flying Visit to Mazatlan, and Last Farewell. | [326] |
| CHAPTER XXXIX. | |
| We leave Mexico.—Go to the Sandwich Islands, and anchor in Byron's Bay, or Hilo.—Natives.—Scenery.—Constables.—Meeting House.—Dialect.—Sermon.—We Depart for the Interior.—Half-way House.—Society there, and how they cook Turkeys.—Volcano of Kilauea.—Frozen Sea of Lava.—The Great Crater.—Sulphur Banks.—Return to Hilo. | [329] |
| CHAPTER XL. | |
| Hilo.—Education.—Fondness for Liquor.—Favorite dish of roasted Dog, and process of fattening them.—Water Nymphs.—Rainbow Falls.—The Wailuku.—The Three-Decker.—Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. | [339] |
| CHAPTER XLI. | |
| Paipolo Passage.—Maui.—Lahaina.—Cocoanut Tree, and its uses.—The Governor, James Young.—His Fortress.—Surf-Swimming by Girls, who gave us Lessons. | [348] |
| CHAPTER XLII. | |
| High School of Lahainaluna for Boys.—Other Institutions for Girls.—Character of Hawaiians.—Their Crimes and Vices.—Board of Presbyterian Missions. —Exaggerationsupon Moral Condition of the Natives.—Expulsion of Catholics. | [355] |
| CHAPTER XLIII. | |
| Oahu.—Honolulu.—Rides and Drives in Vicinity.—Society.—The Pali up theNuana. —Saturnalia of Kanakas.—Rage for Horses.—Straw Hamlets.—and Life within them. | [362] |
| CHAPTER XLIV. | |
| King Kammehamma, or the Lonely One.—Ministers.—Presentation at Court.—Furniture of the Palace.—Approach of Royalty.—Speeches.—Costumes.—Princes of the blood royal, who patronise us.—And what became of Moses. | [368] |
| CHAPTER XLV. | |
| We sail from Sandwich Islands.—The Tar of all Weathers.—Weather.—Currents and Passage to Marquesas. | [376] |
| CHAPTER XLVI. | |
| Nukeheva.—Bay of Anna Maria.—Style of Head-dress in Vogue.—Tattooing, and other Ornaments.—French Garrison.—Physical Characteristics of these Savages. —Bathing.—King'sResidence, where we beheld a Nobleman drunk with Arva. | [380] |
| CHAPTER XLVII. | |
| Visit to a Distinguished Chief.—His House and Attendants.—Babies Swimming. —MakingFire with Sticks.—An Ancestor Embalmed.—Catholics.—Vagabonds and Deserters.—Whaling Interests. | [387] |
| CHAPTER XLVIII. | |
| Sail from Marquesas—for Society Group.—Tahiti.—Port of Papeetee.—The Reef. —Shoresand Batteries.—Missionaries.—Melville. | [393] |
| CHAPTER XLIX. | |
| Brown Road.—Semi-Civilization.—Excursion to Pomàrce Country House at Papoa.—The Queen and her Hen-coop Habitation.—School.—Fondness for Flowers.—Native Dinner.—Jack the Head Waiter.—Finger Glasses.—We sleep in the Palace, and are Serenaded.—Visit from a Tahitian Noble, and how he conducted himself.—Coral Groves in the Harbor.—Islet of Motunata. | [400] |
| CHAPTER L. | |
| Trip to the Mountains.—Teina.—Ferry-Boat, By Toanni.—Lofty Cascade, Fortress of Faatoar.—Losses by the French.—The Diadem.—We spread a Banquet, and the Ladies have an Appetite.—Soirée by French Governor.—Departure. | [413] |
| CHAPTER LI. | |
| Leave Polynesia.—Accident to Topmen.—The Great Pacific.—Old Harry Greenfield's Yarn.—The Royal Bengal Tiger, who had a difficulty with the Cook. | [421] |
| CHAPTER LII. | |
| Callao.—Appearance of the Place.—The Citadel.—Rodil.—Road to Lima.—And what may be seen in the City.—Rimac.—Public Edifices.—San Domingo. | [426] |
| CHAPTER LIII. | |
| The Clergy Mingling in every-day Panoramas.—Vespers.—Promenades.—Bull Fights.—Berlinas.—Sayas y Mantas, and Speculations upon uses and abuses.—Youthful Lumps of Gold, and Attachment to their Uncles. | [433] |
| CHAPTER LIV. | |
| Cathedral.—Viceroy's Palace.—Plaza.—General Castilla.—Museum.—Antiquities.—Portraits of Pizarro.—Opera.—The Scene not in the Play. | [439] |
| CHAPTER LV. | |
| Valparaiso Again.—El Dorado.—Rides.—The Yorkshire Dame at the Post House.—Pic-Nics. —OurLovely Country-Women.—The Terraces.—Monte Allegro. | [445] |
| CHAPTER LVI. | |
| Homeward Bound, and the Cruise is over. | [452] |
CHAPTER I.
It was on the last day of summer, 1846, that a large vessel of war lay in the stream of Boston Harbor; presently a dirty little steam tug, all bone and muscle, came burroughing alongside. The boatswain and his mates whistled with their silver pipes, like Canary birds, and the cry went forth, to heave up the anchor. Soon the ponderous grapnell was loosened from its hold, and our pigmy companion clasping the huge hull in his hempen arms, bore us away towards the ocean; by and by, the unbleached canvas fell in gloomy clouds from the wide-spread spars—the sails swelled to the breeze—friends were tumbling over the side—light jokes were made—hats waved—cheers given, whether from the heart, or not, was a problem, and then there came a short interval in the hoarse roar of steam, as the pigmy's fastenings splashed in the water—then all was silent; and the stately ship, dashing the salt tears from her eyes, turned her prow, in sadness, from her native land.