Advance of the Mangrove-Borders of Low Islands on the North Coast of

Vanua Levu between 1840 and 1895.

Thukini, or Gibson Island of Wilkes 700 to 800yards
Nangano, or Piner’s Island of Wilkes 300 to 400"
Nandongo, or Nuvera of Wilkes 500"
Talailau (two new islands) 400 to 900"
Nukunuku or Clark’s Island of Wilkes Not much change.
Thakavi, or Day’s Island of Wilkes

It will be noticed that the islands of the Talailau Reef are not marked in the chart of 1840; they are both low mangrove islands, the largest being slightly under a mile long and the smallest a little under half a mile. In Nukuira Island, the Vatou of Wilkes, there has been a decrease of about two-thirds of a mile during this period. The difference between Thukini in 1840 and in 1895 is very noticeable. In the time of Wilkes the mangroves only occupied about one-third of the reef-patch. Now they occupy about two-thirds, the area of the reef-patch remaining much about the same. Taking the minus and plus values of all the islands here measured, the average rate of the advance of the mangrove-margins during this half-century may be placed at about 250 yards in the case of these reef-islands, which would amount to a mile in 400 years.

It is probable that a long island like Ndongo, which is about four miles in length, has been formed by the union of smaller mangrove islands. Therefore, taking half its maximum breadth of a mile as a guide, it would at this average rate of growth require two centuries for its formation. But since the extension of the mangroves depends on the growth of the reef-patch, which takes place on the average at a much slower rate, it follows that this can only be a minimum limit for the age of this island. We can only assume that if the reef-patch had suddenly appeared 200 years ago, Ndongo Island could by this time have acquired its present dimensions. It does not follow that the mangrove border has been continuously advancing. A hundred years ago there may have been a state of equilibrium between the growth of the mangrove and the reef-patch, which does not now exist. All we can say of some of these low islands is that the mangroves have been rapidly extending their margins during the last half century, and that the normal adjustment between reef-growth and mangrove-growth, which must have once existed, does not now prevail.

There is evidence of the shoaling of the ship channel amongst these islands to the extent of about a fathom during this period.[[12]] The usual depth immediately around the patches, on which the islands have been formed, is 8 to 10 fathoms. If, therefore, the shoaling is a general process, it is to be inferred that although the outward growth of the reef-patches would be usually very slow, probably not over fifty yards in a century, there must be times when, in shallowing depths, the growth of the reef-patch would be comparatively rapid; and it is at such times that the adjustment between the relations of mangrove and reef-patch would be upset so that the advance of the mangroves would be for a time unrestricted.

It is, therefore, apparent that the rate of growth of one of these low islands is not to be determined by the rate of growth of the mangrove-tract occupying the surface. The subject is a complicated one; but I think enough has been said to show that the destructive agencies do not prevail on this great submarine platform on the north coast of Vanua Levu.

If the data here adduced of the increase of the low islands, of the shoaling of the channels, and of the advance of the delta of the Lekutu river,[[13]] are well founded, all the islands, islets, and reef-patches that lie along this north coast will be united to each other and to the main island within a thousand years.

The facts here produced do not directly indicate a movement of upheaval but they are quite consistent with the conclusion that the great movement of elevation which has built up Vanua Levu by the union of several smaller islands is still in operation at its coasts. To assume that there is now in progress at the sea-border the same process of island-building which has produced Vanua Levu, as we now see it, is to assume a uniformity in nature’s methods which is disregarded by the hypothesis that the great submarine platform, from which the large islands of Viti Levu and Vanua Levu now arise, represents the work of marine erosion into the flanks of the upheaved islands since the last elevation. The origin of this submarine platform is dealt with in [Chapter XXVII]. Here it may be remarked that I regard it as older than the islands that rise from it.

However, this movement of upheaval is so gradual that the utmost one can expect to do by the comparison of surveys made half a century apart is to show the lack of evidence of the destructive agency of erosion. As far as the comparison admits of judging, there seems to have been no important change on the coasts of the western end of the island during this period. The low neck of land connecting Naivaka with the main island, if we take the low-water line in the Admiralty chart as the limit, had much the same breadth at the time of both surveys. The depths in Mbua Bay remain about the same, with perhaps a shoaling of less than a fathom in places. There are two cays awash in the Admiralty plan of this bay which were described as sand-spits in the time of Wilkes. The promontory of Lekumbi could scarcely have been expected to show any extension during this time, since there are depths of 10 to 16 fathoms close to its extremity; and there is in fact no difference of critical importance indicated in the charts.