East of the Avuka Range that limits the Lambasa plains on this side is the picturesque valley of Mbuthai-sau. This broad valley runs in a south-east direction into the heart of the island. So small is the gradient that the river flowing down it can be ascended in boats for some miles; whilst Ngele-mumu, a village situated between 5 and 6 miles up the valley, is not much over 50 feet above the sea. This valley in its lower part roughly divides the regions of acid and basic rocks that lie east and west of it respectively. It has, however, been above pointed out that the two regions overlap in the coast region on the west side of the valley. The two types of rocks are also associated in the coast hills immediately east of the valley, since when striking inland from Lloyd Point to the Mbuthai-sau sugar-cane district, one leaves behind the acid rocks at the coast and traverses a region of basic agglomerates. With these qualifications, therefore, the above line of demarcation holds good.
(2) The Sea-border between the Mbuthai-sau and the Langa-langa Rivers
The rocks predominating in this district are white and pale-yellow pumice-tuffs and pumice agglomerates, with quartz-porphyries and oligoclase-trachytes as intrusive masses. The light colour of the sea-cliffs, thus composed, makes them conspicuous from seaward. Their appearance evidently led Mr. Horne into an error in 1878 when he viewed this coast from his canoe during his sea-passage from Lambasa to Tutu. “The coast from Lambasa”—he says—“is a series of bold projecting bluffs of agglomerate interspersed with seams of coralline sandstone.”[[98]] The principal feature of this coast, however, is the prevalence of light-coloured pumice-tuffs, though it is not improbable that elevated reef-formations may occur in some localities.
I particularly examined the coast districts in the vicinity of the Wainikoro and Langa-Langa rivers. In a spur that descends to the right bank of the river, a little above the mouth of the Wainikoro, is exposed an open-textured rhyolite or quartz-porphyry containing, as described on page [310], phenocrysts of glassy felspar (oligoclase and sanidine), quartz, and a little hornblende. Some interesting exposures occur on the coasts between Narikosa Point (Nari-Roso Point of the chart) and the mouth of the Wainikoro. Here the pumice-tuffs and agglomerates are pierced by dykes, some of them vertical and 6 feet across and composed of a light-grey rhyolitic rock, similar except in its compact texture to the rock above mentioned.[[99]] The small quartz crystals, which are 1 to 2 millimetres in size, are sometimes bipyramidal. Many of them are rounded and have a fused-like surface. The pumice-tuff, which displays no effervescence with an acid, is composed mainly of finely pulverised vacuolar and fibrillar istropic colourless glass, and contains also small fragments of glassy felspar and small rounded quartz crystals, such as occur in the rock forming the dykes in these deposits. Imbedded in the tuffs in places are small masses, up to 4 inches in size, of a pretty grey vesicular rhyolite-glass exhibiting the intermediate condition between compact obsidian and pumice which is so characteristic of the rocks of Vulcano in the Lipari Islands. A more detailed account of this rock is given on page [311]. In the pumice-agglomerates of this locality occur pale-yellow decayed and altered pumice blocks.
The headland, known as Narikosa Point, which lies between the mouths of the Wainikoro and Langa-langa rivers, terminates in a rocky spur formed by a large intrusive mass or dyke of a reddish oligoclase-trachyte altered in character and displaying in places a rudely columnar structure.[[100]] The pumice-tuffs and agglomerates are well exposed at the coast between Narikosa Point and the Langa-langa River. In the vicinity of Songombiau, a village here situated, the tuffs are penetrated by dykes. One dyke at the back of the village is 4 or 5 feet thick and has vitreous margins. It is composed of a darkish pyroxene-andesite which in the interior of the intrusion in hemi-crystalline and a little vesicular, but in the margins it is more glassy and rather scoriaceous.[[101]] Though not a basic rock in itself, its specific gravity in the compact state being only about 2·55, it is relatively basic when contrasted with the rhyolitic and trachytic rocks of the district, which have when compact a specific gravity of not over 2·3.
Pumice-tuffs and agglomerates appear in the cliff-faces of the hills on either side of the lower course of the Langa-langa River from the vicinity of Kalikoso to the sea. At one place about 3 miles up the river a dyke of trachyte, much altered and showing columns 12 to 18 inches across, was exposed at the bank.
(3) Sea-border between the Langa-langa River and Thawaro Bay
The next part of the coast which I visited was that opposite Tutu Island. Here a range of high hills, 1,100 or 1,200 feet in height, sends a lofty spur to the sea, in the precipitous faces of which are exposed breccia-tuffs and agglomerates derived from acid rocks. A specimen of the tuffs shows, besides fragments of altered rhyolitic or trachytic rocks, portions of decomposing pumice, the vacuoles and tubular cavities of which are filled with alteration products. The blocks in the agglomerates are altered oligoclase-trachytes, both compact and vesicular. These deposits are non-calcareous and rarely display bedding; but in one place there was a rude arrangement of the materials, the dip being to the north-west. I crossed this coast range where it is only 600 feet above the sea, and descended into the Kalikoso plains in the vicinity of Numbu.
In the coast district between Tutu Island and the village of Naua, 3½ miles to the east, the same altered coarse pumiceous and trachytic tuffs, occasionally bedded and dipping W.N.W., form the low hills near the sea. In one place, where the elevation was less than 200 feet, I noticed on the surface small fragments of branching corals. They had perhaps weathered out of the tuffs, and though in part silicified still effervesced freely in an acid.
Between Naua and the town of Visongo occur low hills formed of acid tuffs. At an elevation of 200 feet the tuffs display a remarkable character. When examined with the lens they are seen to be crowded with the minute tests of foraminifera of the “Globigerina” type. The deposit forms a fairly hard light-grey clay-rock which according to the usual acid-test has no lime. Under the microscope it is seen to be composed nearly in equal proportion of the tests of foraminifera and of very fine detritus apparently derived from acid rocks, the materials being generally not over ·01 mm. in diameter, though some of the felspar fragments measure ·05 mm. across. A secondary process of silicification, as exhibited in the occurrence of minutely granular quartz, has affected the matrix of the clay as well as the tests of the foraminifera. The deposit is of deep-water origin and appears to have been formed from the fine washings of a coast some distance away.