The vegetation, though sparse and scanty in comparison with that of the forests, is sufficiently varied when it comes to be more closely examined. In one locality we may have extensive tracts covered with Gleichenia, Pteris, and other ferns of the bracken habit. In another, tall reeds (Eulalia) and grasses cover large areas. Here, more than one species of Tacca (T. pinnatifida and T. maculata) thrive. There, the Turmeric (Curcuma longa) abounds. Trailing over the soil in one place we notice Ipomœa pes capræ, in another the Yaka (Pachyrrhizus trilobus), and in another the procumbent unifoliolate form of Vitex trifolia. Amongst the shrubs and small trees we observe in different localities the Sama (Commersonia echinata), the Mbulei (Alstonia plumosa—one of the rubber plants), Mussænda frondosa, Melastoma denticulatum, and Nelitris vitiensis, the Nunga-nunga. Dodonæa viscosa, found in similar regions in Australia and New Zealand, abounds in places; and here and there may be seen species of Hibbertia, another Australian genus. Fagræa Berteriana, the Mbua tree, grows abundantly in certain districts, as in the Mbua plains, and Gardenias are at times abundant. One or two characteristic beach-plants have been already mentioned, and amongst others particularly frequent in these plains are Cassytha filiformis, Cerbera Odollam, Morinda citrifolia, and Premna tahitensis.
When these talasinga districts approach the forests, patches of wood occur at intervals, and we observe here the Candle-nut Tree (Aleurites moluccana), the Vunga (Metrosideros polymorpha), and the Thau-kuro (Casuarina nodiflora). Such are some of the botanical features of these districts; but the reader will acquire a sufficiently correct general notion of the floral physiognomy of these regions if he bears in mind their most conspicuous characters, those of an undulating region more or less covered with ferns, tall reeds, and grass, and dotted over, either separately or in clumps, with Casuarinas (C. equisetifolia), Screw-pines (Pandanus odoratissimus), Cycads (C. circinalis), and Acacias (A. Richii, &c.).
However, the peculiar vegetation of these plains often ascends the lower slopes of the mountains, reaching to various elevations. In Vanua Levu it often ceases at 900 or 1,000 feet, but it may only reach to 400 or 500 feet, and, on the other hand, not uncommonly it ascends to as much as 1,500 feet, the greatest elevation recorded by me being 1,600-1,700 feet in the Sealevu district. It extends miles inland, and where conditions are suitable it may reach the heart of the island.
Different explanations have been offered of the origin of the peculiar vegetation of the leeward slopes of these islands. It is, however, a phenomenon that is presented over much of the globe by islands lying in the track of regular winds, the weather, or wet, side being densely wooded, whilst the lee, or dry, side is covered with grass, ferns, and similar vegetation. The predisposing cause must be climatic; and although Mr. Horne’s explanation attributing it to the effect of fires and to a faulty system of native cultivation (pp. 80, 132) may be doubtless true in certain localities, the influences at work here must be the same as are at work in other islands and on continental coasts in other parts of the world.
But for all that it is not easy to give a definite explanation even from a meteorological standpoint. Those who are interested in this subject will recall the desert districts of Australia and the dreary sandy wastes of the coast of Northern Chile and Peru; and they will be cautious in venturing on a definite explanation even with such relatively unimportant examples of the same principle as are exhibited by the islands of Fiji. Dr. Seemann, writing of these “talasinga” plains (p. xii), remarks that “their very aspect is proof that rain falls in only limited quantity,” the mountainous backbone of the islands intercepting, as he holds, much of the rainfall. But the subsequent observations of Mr. Holmes, at Delanasau, in the “talasinga” district on the north-west side of Vanua Levu, have shown that there is by no means a small rainfall in this locality, the average rainfall, for instance, for the seven years ending December, 1877, being 113 inches, which must be quite two-thirds or three-fourths of the fall on the weather side of the island (see p. 215); whilst the average number of days on which rain fell was 156. The true cause would seem to lie in the excessive dryness of the air on the lee side of the islands between the rains, and the whole matter may, perhaps, be one rather for the hygrometer than for the rain-gauge. I have no comparative data bearing on this point; but Mr. Holmes, whose observations as here quoted are from Horne’s Year in Fiji, found that the mean relative humidity for 1875 at 1 P.M. was 63, which is certainly very low for the tropics. I may remark that, as far as personal experience goes, the climate on the lee side of Vanua Levu is much more enervating, much less healthy, and the air is far more “drying” than on the side exposed to the trade-wind.
Geological characters, as I found, explained nothing in this connection, the “talasinga” vegetation sometimes occurring on basaltic areas, at other times on the “soapstone” or calcareous mud-stone, and again on coarser tufaceous rocks. In my volume on the geology of Vanua Levu (p. 57), it is pointed out that the extensive disintegration of the basaltic rocks, that are exposed on these plains in places, affords evidence of the great antiquity of these “talasinga” districts in their present unforested condition. The extent to which these rocks have weathered downward is remarkable. In some places they are decomposed to a depth of ten feet and more. The same inference is to be drawn from the occurrence of fragments of limonite, or bog-iron ore, over these plains, marking as they do original swampy tracts that, with a few exceptions, have long since disappeared. Such deposits indicate that these plains have been for ages in the same condition. ... It may be added that, according to Mr. Lister and Mr. Crosby, the features of the “talasinga” plains occur in the Tongan Group on the leeward sides of the islands of Eua and Vavau.
NOTE 23 (page [43])
Schimper’s Grouping of the Indo-Malayan Strand-flora
It is divided into four formations—the Mangrove, the Nipa, the Barringtonia, and the Pes-capræ. The two last make up my Beach-formation, the Barringtonia formation comprising the trees, shrubs, &c., immediately lining the beach, and the Pes capræ including the creepers and bushes of the beach itself. In the Pacific islands it is not always easy to preserve this distinction. The Nipa formation corresponds in some respects with my Intermediate or Transition formation, lying as it does between the mangrove-belts and the woods of the interior; but the swamp-palm (Nipa fruticans) that forms it in the mass is not found in Fiji or, indeed, in the Pacific islands, excepting the Solomon and Caroline Groups.
NOTE 24 (page [44])
Grouping of some of the Characteristic Plants of the Strand-flora of Fiji
(a) Beach-formation.—Calophyllum inophyllum, Thespesia populnea, Triumfetta procumbens, Carapa moluccensis, Canavalia obtusifolia, Vigna lutea, Pongamia glabra, Sophora tomentosa, Cæsalpinia Bonducella, Acacia laurifolia, Barringtonia speciosa, Terminalia Katappa, Gyrocarpus Jacquini, Pemphis acidula, Morinda citrifolia, Guettarda speciosa, Wedelia biflora, Scævola Kœnigii, Cordia subcordata, Tournefortia argentea, Ipomœa pes capræ, Cassytha filiformis, Hernandia peltata, Pandanus odoratissimus, &c.