In an opening of the forest near the river Dart a small band of Cistercian monks built an abbey for their order in the 12th century, hoping in the seclusion of the spot to be free from the prevalent disturbances of those early times. The name Buckfastleigh implies a spot where deer may safely venture to drink, “buckfast”—the fastness of the deer—and “leigh”—a lea or pasture,—and is probably symbolical also of the peace and quiet so essential to the retired lives led by the holy men of old. The actual beginning of this religious house reaches back into antiquity, and in the course of its long history it has twice changed its order of rule. In the Saxon time it was subjected to Benedictine sway, after the Conquest it was refounded for Cistercian monks, and lastly, some years ago, a mansion was built on a portion of the site which has since been inhabited by Benedictine brothers from France who have partially rebuilt the old abbey.
The remains of the 12th century building are somewhat insignificant. They are situated on the north side of the village on the right bank of the river, and consist of a tower covered with ivy, and a large tithe barn, together with a Saxon crypt. A woollen factory now occupies part of the abbey site, and in connection with this fact it is interesting to note that trading in wool was an important source of revenue in the days of the Cistercians. Still further back the woollen fabrics of Rome had obtained special excellence, and in time, the Roman manufactures were carried to the countries in which Roman colonies had been established. In England the making of woollen cloths was introduced by the Romans, but it was in the hands of a few only. The Cistercians at Buckfastleigh were all wool-traders, and to this day there is a road called “Abbot’s Way”—said to be the former post road by which the wool of the community was conveyed to Plymouth for export.
PART III—EASTERN COUNTIES
CHAPTER VII
LINCOLNSHIRE: SUFFOLK: ESSEX
CROYLAND: THORNTON: SWINESHEAD: BURY ST EDMUNDS: WALTHAM
[CROYLAND (Mitred Benedictine)]
716, Founded in the isle of Croyland by Ethelbald, King of Mercia, in memory of St Guthlac—870, Church and monastery destroyed by the Danes—948, The abbey rebuilt and re-endowed by King Edred—1060, A new church begun by Abbot Ultcyter—1091, New church destroyed by fire—1113, Restored by Abbot Geoffrey, subsequently becoming a mitred abbey of great magnificence—15—, Dissolved. Annual revenue, £1082, 15s. 10d.
THE ruins of Croyland Abbey are of exceptional interest and show many styles of architecture. The west arch of the central tower with its zig-zag moulding is Norman work, and is undoubtedly the most ancient part of the ruin. The west front consists of two styles—Early English in the lower part and Perpendicular in the upper. The north-west tower was erected in 1427; its buttresses and spire, and also the adjoining west porch are, however, 16th century work. The remainder of the ruins are mostly Perpendicular—the nave, aisle, transepts and Lady chapel having been built in the 15th century. The north aisle of the abbey church has been used as the parish church since 1688 when the roof of the abbey fell in. Croyland in its prosperity was one of the most wealthy and magnificent monastic foundations in England.
Founded in Saxon times, it was re-established after the Norman invasion and subsequently became a mitred abbey. The original church and monastery suffered greatly at the hands of the Danes in the 9th century, the “Abbot being slain at the altar where he was celebrating the Holy Communion and many of the monks being tortured and killed in the most cruel manner.” Shrines and monuments were specially singled out by the Danes for destruction, the sacred contents being irreverently scattered in all directions, and the costly memorials rifled. But for the influence of monasticism, Croyland (derived from the Latin Crudam terram—muddy land) might still be a small and insignificant island. Owing to the religious enterprise and enthusiasm of King Ethelbald, the abbey was built on the tract of land with which he endowed it. At his instigation oak and alders were driven in as piles, and hard earth brought in boats from the upland. An excellent system of drainage, too, was carried out, converting marsh into rich pasture land, watered by the Welland alone instead of the four streams by which it was originally enclosed.
A curious triangular bridge, the most ancient of all non-Roman bridges in Europe, stands high and dry in the centre of the village. From its steep ascent it is not used by carriages—the ascents having been made into steps paved with small stones. In connection with the history of Croyland and its abbey one may learn another of the means by which so many rich and sumptuous religious houses were built in the kingdom. Joffrida or Geoffrey, Abbot of Croyland, obtained indulgence from the Archbishop for the third part of the penance enjoined for any particular sin and to everyone who helped in any way towards the building of the monastery. Monks were sent out to collect money and before long a foundation stone was laid with great ceremony. The abbot laid the first cornerstone, every nobleman according to his rank laying his stone, accompanied in every case by substantial gifts in kind. The poorer people offered one day’s work a month, small gifts of money—certain numbers of them holding themselves responsible for whole pillars, pedestals, etc. The abbot in return made every helper a member of the fraternity, to which in later years Henry VI., King of England, was also admitted. In the time of the Civil wars, Croyland became a garrison for one or other of the contending sides, and the abbey was taken by Cromwell in 1642.