The Abbeys of Great Britain

by H. Claiborne Dixon

In Henry VII.’s chapel the Westminster Assembly met in the 17th century, and through their misguided energy Presbyterianism was established as the national religion for a certain time. It is impossible to say what dire effects this Assembly might have wrought upon the welfare of the country.

“By its advice the public use of the Prayer Book was forbidden under penalties the very day that the Primate was executed, and a directory for public worship substituted for it. By the directory it was made an offence to kneel at the reception of Holy Communion, or to use any kind of symbolism in sacred things, such as the ring in marriage, and when any person departed this life, the dead body was to be interred without any kind of religious ceremony, nor even the friends allowed to sing or read or pray or kneel at the grave; although secular display in funeral processions of persons of rank was not restricted. Then the holy and beautiful petitions of our Liturgy, though sanctified by the devotions of Christians in every clime and by every tongue for 1500 years and more, gave place to long and tedious harangues from illiterate fanatics of two or three hours’ duration, and the observance of great church festivals, together with all anniversaries, was strictly forbidden. On December 19th, 1644, a solemn ordinance of parliament was passed by the advice of the Westminster Assembly commanding that the hitherto joyous anniversary of our Lord’s Nativity should be observed as a day of national fasting and humiliation.”—English Church History (Rev. C. A. Lane).

The Parliamentarians under Cromwell fortunately soon put a stop to those irksome restrictions.

The Bishopric of Rochester was united with the Deanery of Westminster in 1663 and, after a partnership of over a hundred years, parted at the beginning of the 19th century. The treaty of Westminster was signed in 1673. Samuel Wilberforce became the Dean in 1845. Many well-known men followed him and during the time of office of Dean Bradley, 1881-1902, Queen Victoria held her Jubilee Celebration and Edward VII. was crowned in the Abbey.

CHAPTER XI
HERTFORDSHIRE

[ST ALBANS (Mitred Benedictine)]

303, A church built to the memory of Alban, proto-martyr of Britain and Roman soldier—793, Destroyed by the Saxon invaders—King Offa founds a monastery and builds a second church in honour of St Alban—1077, Paul de Caen, first abbot, begins to rebuild the church—During his life the eastern part of the nave, the transepts and the central tower completed—1115, The church consecrated by the Bishop of Lincoln in the presence of Henry I. and Queen Maud—1154, Nicholas, Bishop of St Albans, chosen Pope (Adrian IV.). He “granted to the abbot of this abbey that as St Alban was the first martyr of England, so this abbot should be the first of all the abbots of England in order and dignity” (Dugdale’s Monasticon)—1218, Pope Honorious “confirms all lands and privileges”—1349, Thomas de la Mare becomes abbot—The captive King John of France entrusted to his care—1381, The monastery plays a prominent part in the Peasant Rising—1464, The abbey stripped of its valuables by the victorious Queen Margaret after the second battle of St Albans—1521, Wolsey becomes abbot—1539, The abbey surrendered by Richard Boreham, last abbot, to the commissioners of Henry VIII.—1553, Granted to the Mayor and burgesses for a parish church and grammar school—1688, The scheme for the restoration of the building supported by public subscription—1878, The diocese of St Albans founded—Thomas Leigh Claughton becomes first bishop—1879, West front built by Lord Grimthorpe—1885, Restoration of nave completed.

THE quiet little town of St Albans in Hertfordshire has sprung up on the site of the Roman city Verulamium, the ruined walls of which are still to be seen. Here, according to the legend, Alban, the proto-martyr of Britain, was born. Converted to Christianity by the priest Amphibalus—to whom he had given shelter—he refused to renounce his faith, and was beheaded. The martyrdom took place outside the walls of the town, on the exact site on which now stands the cathedral—formerly the abbey—of St Albans. A small church was erected on the hill a few years after St Alban’s death, and later a second church was planned in expiation of a still greater crime. Ethelbert of East Anglia had been treacherously murdered by his father-in-law, Offa, King of Mercia, who now sought to salve his conscience by building a monastery in honour of St Alban. Of this second church (the first was only a temporary shelter for the relics of the saint, which were supposed to have been miraculously discovered by King Offa) there are now but few traces. The town of St Albans lies on a high hill, while the Ver, a stream supposed to have burst forth miraculously to assuage the thirst of Alban the martyr, flows along the peaceful valley below.

The view of the massive structure of the abbey church is from all points impressive. The great length of the nave with its magnificent western front, the pinnacled transepts, the choir and Lady chapel, all crowned by the lofty castellated tower, make up a truly marvellous whole. The greater part of the church was built after the Norman Conquest by the Abbot Paul, whose uncle, Lanfranc, was first appointed abbot of St Stephen’s at Caen by William I. and afterwards made Archbishop of Canterbury. Founded on the spot where Alban was cruelly put to death, this immense monastery extended over the hill side as far as the river. With the exception of the monastery gateway, the entire conventual part was swept away at the Dissolution. Fortunately the abbey church was spared, and became, as in many other cases, the parish church of the district. Every style of architecture is shown in the building, from the time of the Normans to the reign of Edward IV. The nave is of thirteen bays with aisles; the two transepts have no aisles, and, as in the case of Westminster Abbey, the choir is west of the crossing. The presbytery and Lady chapel extend beyond the choir. The pillars of the triforium and south transept are of Saxon work and are all that remains of the 8th century church built by King Offa. The most ancient parts of the edifice are those most central, the east and west ends being of a different style of architecture and of a later period. The eastern part of the nave, the transepts and central tower, are all the work of Abbot Paul. Admirable in its proportions, the heavy Norman arches—relieved occasionally by those of Early English work—the beautiful moulding, the grand spaciousness of the whole building combine to make a grand and effective whole, while simplicity is undoubtedly the key-note of the entire structure. Although all the abbots of St Alban’s are buried here, very few of their tombs and monuments remain.

Shrines have been erected to the memory of St Alban and St Amphibalus, and in the Lady chapel lie many historical personages, including Henry Percy, Duke of Northumberland, son of Hotspur; and Lord Clifford (killed in the first battle of St Albans). Great interest attaches to the high altar screen, erected by Abbot William Wallingford in the 15th century, the chantry of Abbot Ramyge, the Holy Rood screen, the watching chamber in the south wing of the transept, and also to the window in the south aisle representing the martyrdom of St Alban, below which is the following inscription—