c. 1150, Founded by David I., and granted many liberties and immunities—Colonised by monks from Alnwick—c. 1322, Burnt by the soldiers of Edward II.’s retreating army but rebuilt shortly after—Set on fire by Richard II. during one of his forays—1545, Burnt by Sir G. Bowes and Sir B. Layton; the church only saved—1832, Sir Walter Scott buried here.
In a sunny little glade, fringed around by great oaks, clothed in verdure and luxuriant foliage, and reposing midst an almost unnatural calm, all that is left of this Præmonstratensian abbey basks in the sun. Trees not only shade it from without but also from within,—actually growing out of the walls themselves. Dryburgh, signifying “oak growth,” is a town in Berwickshire delightfully situated amidst varied scenery, a few miles only from Kelso and Melrose. A convent was founded here in the 6th century, and, on its site, St Mary’s Abbey for White canons was built in the 12th century. The ruins are beautiful both in situation and construction. Flowing past them, the Tweed takes a crescent-like course and engirts the woods in which the red walls of the abbey stand. A suspension bridge spans the river and a sloping wooded lawn stretches away in front of the ruins.
Despite its terrible treatment in the 16th century by Bowes, Layton and the Earl of Hertford, the conventual church survived. The chapter-house is even yet practically entire, and the principal portions of the buildings can be traced. The plan of the church was cruciform, having a presbytery instead of a Lady chapel, a fragment of which is yet standing. There were aisles to nave and choir, while the transepts, which extended only one bay beyond the line of the nave, had each an eastern aisle. Early English work is evident in the choir and transepts, and that of the Early Decorated period in the nave. Connecting the south transept to the chapter-house, is the chapel of St Modanus—so called after an abbot of that name who lived in the 6th century—which still preserves its altar and sedilia, and is lighted by two round-headed windows. A double circle marks the founder’s grave in the chapter-house, above which is a large room. Other parts of the domestic buildings are still in existence—such as the kitchen, refectory and dormitories—all of the Norman Transitional period—besides remnants of the porter’s lodge, dungeon cells and cloisters.
With regard to the founding of this abbey, it is thought that the early work is probably a part of the original construction provided for by Hugo de Morville, Lord Lauderdale, and his wife, Beatrix de Beauchamp, in 1150. The new church is particularly interesting inasmuch as it shows how the Scots still held to the round arch long after the remainder of their architecture had become thoroughly Gothic in character, for not only is the 13th century door of the monks built with a round arch, though with purely Gothic mouldings and capitals, but the 14th century west door, built after the burning of the abbey by Richard II., is the same.
Dryburgh has been associated with many men eminent in their own walk of life: Abbot Oliver, Royal ambassador to England; Canon Patrick, poet and man of letters; Ralph of Strode, Chaucer’s friend and Wycliffe’s antagonist; Chaucer himself, and then a line of commendators, the last of whom was James Strail, who tried in vain to stem the tide of simony, sacrilege, and depredation that was engulfing the Scottish Church. In 1545 the great blow fell. Henry VIII. gave to Sir Ralph Eure, Sir George Bowes, and Sir Brian Layton a feudal grant of the land they had the year before devastated and laid waste. Thereupon these chivalrous and noble gentlemen, Eure and Layton, forthwith journeyed into Scotland at the head of a formidable host eager to seize on their “lawful lands.” They swept the south of Scotland with fire, burning anew Melrose, Kelso, Dryburgh and four other abbeys, sixteen castles, five great towers and 243 villages. Retribution awaited them, however, for on Ancrum Moor they were attacked by a brave body of patriotic Scotchmen under the Earl of Angus, Norman Lesly, and Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch, all eager to avenge their wrongs. The battle ended in a complete victory for the Scots, the entire English force being utterly routed. Eight hundred were killed, more than a thousand captured, and the villains Eure and Layton left dead on the field of battle. Dryburgh Abbey was indeed lost, but its despoilers were vanquished, and to-day the remnants of this once stately pile tower rise towards the sky in mute protest against the frenzied outrage of the favourites of a dishonoured royal house.
