Another thing is that the hill speedster is one of the greatest menaces to other drivers so far found. If one cares not for his own car or neck, at least he should have a care for the others on the hill; and whether it is on the ascent or descent the speedster endangers every one else going in either direction at the same time, except perhaps the fellow who is following him at a safe pace. It is no comfort to know that the mortality is highest among the speed fiends of motordom; occasionally they raise the mortality figure of the drivers who practice safety first.
CHAPTER XXXVI
KEEPING THE CAR SLEEK
Of course, if one does not care for appearances, and has no pride in the bright and shiny varnish of the body and in the absence of rustiness of the top, and thinks because the engine is under the hood no one will see that it has been neglected, this section will not particularly interest the reader. But, on the other hand, if these things count, and the owner understands that true economy consists in keeping not only the running parts in condition, but everything else at the top notch of perfection, then he will heed the advice herein.
Just because it does not show to the passer-by, many think that the appearance of the engine does not count; that it is not essential that it be kept free of oil, grease, dust, and corrosion of iron and brass. Get this idea out of the head instanter. It is false and has much to do with breakdown and wear-out of the motor. The cleaner it is kept the longer will it run satisfactorily, both as to troubles and to length of life. One may well err on the side of cleanliness rather than be somewhat slovenly. The motor ought to be cleaned off on the outside after any lengthy trip, or after any run when roads are dusty, or oily, or sandy.
One may be as particular as possible, yet there will be some oil or grease on the motor exterior. Probably that which lodges upon the cylinders will, if there is much hill climbing to heat the motor unduly, make itself visible and smellable—visible in a thin streak of smoke coming from the hood, and smellable to the point of offensiveness when that streak of smoke strikes the olfactory nerves. But in most instances it will remain upon the engine, gradually becoming a gum from the drying up of the substance and the accretion of dust from the road. The longer it remains the harder it is to remove it; hence when the work is done in the garage every time the car comes in, it will take but a few minutes and slight labor; while if allowed to accumulate, it may mean hours’ work to get rid of the hard deposit.
Sufficient instruction has been given as to the care of the working parts of the motor, so that only the exterior need be considered at this time. Begin at the top. First of all see that the wire terminals at the spark plugs are free from corrosion and grease. They should be dry and clean if they are to transmit the current to the plugs. Usually the wires are carried in a tube to protect them from heat and grease, but not always. In any event, trace along the wires to see that oil or grease is not present upon them. Either will rot the rubber insulation and cause a leak which will affect the ignition. Examine all the terminals under the hood for the same purpose, and every once in a while disconnect the wires one by one and scrape the terminals bright, also the contact point where terminal is fastened. Replace the wires one by one as you clean them so they will not become disarranged. See also that there is no oil, grease, or dirt on the spark plugs, for it might form a sufficient path for current to practically short-circuit the plug.
Wipe off the top of the cylinders and blow out accumulations of dust from any recesses where it has collected. If there is thickened or gummy oil upon the metal, which will not wipe off readily, saturate the waste or cloth in gasoline at the carburetor drip cock, and it will loosen up quickly. Gasoline is more convenient, but kerosene will do the work better, leaving a surface less likely to rust. In the same way clean the exterior of all the parts of the motor and everything attached to it. Where the brass shows corrosion, use a cleaning compound to remove it. Brass may be kept from corroding in wet weather by coating it with whiting. Several good compounds also are sold for this purpose. Bright iron parts may be kept from rusting by wiping them with a rag dampened with a thin oil, which should be wiped off regularly, and there never should be enough to show.
The fan, fan belt, pulleys, gear casings, and other parts at the front end collect much dust and should be kept clean. The air holes through the radiator, also, must be kept free of dust, oil, and asphalt from oiled roads. In fact every part under the hood needs frequent cleaning.
There are some parts of the chassis and undergear which will not be readily reached by the hose and water when cleaning the body; therefore they should first be rubbed off and cleaned of dirt, grease, and accumulations of asphalt from oiled roads, or mud. Do this while the space under the car is dry, and if it is done regularly it will not be difficult to keep this part of the car in order. The parts of the various rods and rocker shafts, and particularly near the bearings, should be kept clean.
If one will make a “creeper” from which to work when getting under the car, it will remove most of the objections which drivers have to “getting under.” Take a board of twelve inches wide and five feet long and mount casters which move freely under it. At one end place an inclined head or shoulder rest a foot long and with four or five inches’ rise. Then cover the upper side with carpet, padded to make it comfortable. Lying down upon this, one may move about under the car in ease and get at all the mechanism readily. It is not only good for cleaning time, but when inspecting or oiling, or tightening up the bolts and nuts and bearings which may be reached only from beneath the car. It also keeps one off a wet floor or ground.