ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT
| Safety-pin | [xli] |
| Romano-British brooch or fibula with bilateral spring | [xlii] |
| Brooch formed of double spiral discs of concentric wire ("Spectacle" fibula) | [xlii] |
| Celtic brooch | [xliii] |
| Ring-brooch (Tomb of Queen Berengaria of Navarre, wife of Richard Cœur de Lion, at Le Mans) | [xliii] |
| Buckle, with buckle-plate and tag. German, about 1490. (Victoria and Albert Museum) | [xlvi] |
| Bronze fibula. (Ireland) | [xlvii] |
| Collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece, made in 1432 by John Peutin, of Bruges, jeweller to Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. (From the portrait of Baldwin de Lannoy by John van Eyck at Berlin) | [90] |
| Interior of a jeweller's shop. From Kreuterbuch. (Frankfort, 1536) | [98] |
| Gold ring engraved and enamelled with figures of the Virgin and Child and St. John the Evangelist. Scottish, fifteenth century. (Nat. Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh) | [104] |
| Necklace worn by the daughter of Tommaso Portinari in Van der Goes' triptych in the Uffizi Gallery, Florence | [117] |
| Pomander. From Kreuterbuch. (Frankfort, 1569) | [126] |
| A mediæval lapidary. From Ortus Sanitatis. (Strasburg, about 1497) | [134] |
| Mantle clasp (portion) on effigy of Henry IV. (Canterbury Cathedral) | [140] |
| Brooch of the Virgin in Lochner's "Dombild." (Cologne Cathedral) | [145] |
| English gold ring, fifteenth century. Engraved with the "Annunciation," and the words en bon an. (Mr. E. Richardson-Cox) | [150] |
| French gold ring, fourteenth century. (Louvre) | [154] |
| A goldsmith in his workshop. From Hortus Sanitatis. (Strasburg, 1536) | [158] |
| "Luckenbooth" brooch of silver. (Nat. Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh) | [165] |
| Pendant worn by one of the Three Graces in Botticelli's "Primavera." | [169] |
| Jewel, in Ghirlandaio's portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni | [170] |
| Brooch worn by the Virgin on fifteenth-century Florentine picture (No. 296, National Gallery, London) | [174] |
| A fifteenth-century jeweller. From Ortus Sanitatis. (Strasburg, about 1497) | [176] |
| Design for a pendent whistle by Hans Brosamer | [198] |
| Design for a pendant by Hans Brosamer | [205] |
| Earring, from Portrait of a Lady by Sodoma. (Frankfort Gallery) | [233] |
| Design for a pendant by Jacques Androuet Ducerceau | [241] |
| The Penruddock Jewel | [252] |
| Triple rings set with pointed diamonds. Device of Cosimo de' Medici. From Paolo Giovio's Dialogo dell' imprese. (Figured in Botticelli's "Pallas" in the Pitti Gallery) | [260] |
| Rings on a roll of parchment. From Kreuterbuch. (Frankfort, 1536) | [263] |
| Design for a bracelet by Jacques Androuet Ducerceau | [269] |
| Jean Toutin in his workshop, firing an enamelled jewel | [289] |
| Design for a pendent miniature-frame by Pierre Marchant | [306] |
PREFACE
THE term Jewellery is used generally in a very wide sense, and it has been necessary to impose certain limitations upon its meaning for the purpose of the present work. Jewellery may be defined as comprising various objects adapted to personal ornament, precious in themselves or rendered precious by their workmanship. The jewel worn as a personal ornament may be merely decorative, such as the aigrette or the pendant, or it may be useful as well as ornamental, such as the brooch or the girdle. Gems and precious stones are not jewels, in the present sense, until the jeweller's skill has wrought and set them. This definition will be found to correspond with the term minuteria adopted by Italian writers on the goldsmith's art for objects in precious materials employed for the adornment of the person, as distinct from grosseria—those fashioned for household use or ornament.
With the exception of a chapter dealing with Egyptian jewellery, I have confined myself solely to Europe. The work falls into four main divisions. The first deals with the jewellery worn during classical times, and until the ninth century of our era. The second treats of the jewels of the Middle Ages. The third is devoted to the jewels of the Renaissance, and the fourth includes those of subsequent times. In the chapters dealing with Renaissance and later jewellery I have endeavoured to utilise the valuable evidence, hitherto generally overlooked or neglected, which may be derived from the engraved designs and working drawings of jewellers, from personal inventories, and from pictures by the old masters. Perhaps too generous a share of attention has been bestowed on English work; but this may be pardoned when it is remembered that the previous literature of jewellery has been almost entirely from the pens of French and German writers. While fully appreciating the importance and interest of the recent revival of artistic jewellery, I have not thought it necessary, in a book intended mainly for the connoisseur, to give more than a rapid review of the main features of the modern movement, with a brief mention of some prominent craftsmen therein employed. For similar reasons no general account is given of the processes of manufacturing articles of jewellery, though references are made to technical methods when they serve to explain points of artistic importance.
Assistance has been supplied by numerous works. The largest debt is due to the learned art historian Ferdinand Luthmer, whose standard work Gold und Silber has afforded most important aid. From Rücklin's Schmuckbuch I have constantly derived instruction; and Fontenay's Bijoux anciens et modernes has been a storehouse of information. Other books which have been of service are included in the Bibliography.
It is now my duty and pleasure to express my obligations to all those whose unvarying kindness has facilitated my researches. Special thanks are due: to Lady Rothschild, who has presented me with photographs, specially taken for the purpose, of some of her choicest jewels; to Lady Fuller-Eliott-Drake, who at considerable personal inconvenience brought the Drake jewels to London; to Mr. Jeffery Whitehead, who despatched for my use a number of jewels from his collection; to Mr. Max Rosenheim, who, besides placing at my disposal his unrivalled series of engraved designs for jewellery, has read through and corrected the portion of the subject dealing with engraved ornament; to Sir John Evans, k.c.b., who has guided me personally through his splendid collections of early jewellery; and to Dr. Williamson, for assisting me in many ways, and for the loan, on behalf of Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan, of copyright photographs of the finest enamelled miniature-cases from his catalogue of Mr. Morgan's collection, with leave to describe and reproduce such of them as I might select for this volume.
Among those who have favoured me with permission to publish the treasures in their possession I must gratefully mention Lady Cook (Viscondessa de Monserrate), Lady Ramsay, Lady Monckton, Mrs. Holman Hunt, Mrs. Percy Macquoid, the Marquess of Clanricarde, Viscount Falkland, and Lord Fitzhardinge; also Herr James Simon, of Berlin, and Lieut.-Col. G. B. Croft Lyons, who have presented me with photographs of their jewels. Thanks are also due to Dr. Kitchin, Dean of Durham, for the photograph of St. Cuthbert's Cross; to Dr. Spooner, Warden of New College, for permission and aid in photographing the New College jewels; to Dr. J. Anderson, Director of the National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland, for the loan of blocks of two jewels in the Edinburgh Museum; to Mr. F. G. Hilton Price, who enabled me to photograph the old ledgers in Child's Bank; and to Mr. J. T. Herbert Baily, for leave to reproduce illustrations to my articles on the King's gems and jewels at Windsor Castle in the "Connoisseur" (1902-3). The names of many others, who have kindly lent me jewels or photographs, will be found, attached to the individual objects, in the List of Illustrations.