It should be clear to the reader that if the piece shown (Fig. 38) were cut through on the broken lines we would have one complete collar and we would have left the diagonal stitch that belongs on one end of each of the two adjoining center pieces, therefore by cutting all the collars apart at the point indicated by the line we would have our collars shaped without any waste and would have a selvage or finished edge on the outside.
Fig. 39.
Shaped Collar Folded.
The collar is stitched or sewed on the neck opening of the sweater along the cut edge and across the bottom of the racked center piece, and after it is finished and the sweater coat buttoned up it folds over and looks as shown in Fig. 39. As stated before this collar can be made on a machine that racks over only one needle, but in that case the center piece would be racked on one side only, therefore it is customary to make these collars on a two needle rack machine with the middle portion racked on both sides as will be noted in Fig. 39.
Making a rack on both sides of the fabric is very much like making the diagonal stitch in the operation of the machine, even though the resultant fabric is so radically different. It should be made with a full cardigan stitch same as the zig-zag or diagonal, and the needle plate must be racked every course or half round, but with this difference: When making the diagonal stitch the needle plate is racked over one needle and back again, while to rack both sides of the fabric the needle plate is racked over two needles. This does not mean that the knitter should rack over two needles at once, for this should never be done, but rack over one needle, let us say to the right, then put on one course and rack over the second needle to the right, put on one course and rack one needle to the left, put on one course and rack the second needle to the left. Or in other words, rack alternately two needles to the right and left and put on one course or half round each time the needle plate is racked one needle.
There is one other point that should be remembered in making this collar and that is the manner of starting the diagonal stitch in the proper direction after finishing in the middle portion. Each time this part is finished the diagonal stitch should go in the opposite way from the previous time, therefore when the one needle half round rack starts to make this stitch the first rack should be made with the carriage on the opposite side of the machine from which the previous one was started.
Opportunity for Varying Designs
Fig. 37 is an interesting example of what may be done with the two-needle rack. Designs of this character require the removal or pulling down out of operation of every other needle, therefore a machine of any given cut, or needles per inch, would be in reality only half as fine as cut and would necessitate the use of a heavier or larger yarn.
Fig. 37.
Basket Weave Design Made With the Rack.