Seventeen Years in Paris: A Chaplain's Story

by H. E. Noyes

The outer coffin was quite plain, in accordance with Lady Lytton’s desire, and bore the inscription “Edward Robert, First Earl of Lytton, born November 8th, 1831, died November 24th, 1891.”

The British Chamber of Commerce and the Hon. Whitelaw Reid had sent flowers (evidently not knowing of the order “No flowers”), but the only emblem in the Church was a simple wreath of laurel, which rested on the coffin. The Church was draped from ceiling to floor in black and silver, and the effect was very striking.

I have a record by me of some of those who were present, and it is an interesting list of names. There was the Prince of Monaco, M. Ribot (with the staff of the French Foreign Office), General Brugère, M. Fallières (then President of the Senate), MM. Jules Ferry, Léon Fay, Goblet, and Flourens. Then I saw Barons Alphonse Gustave and Edmund de Rothschild, Comte Armaud, Prince de Sagan, the Marquis de Breteuil, Alexandre Dumas, the Marquis de Jaucourt, and Comte de Portales. These are but a few of the well-known French names. In the gallery amongst many others were the Baroness Morenheim (wife of the Russian Ambassador at that time), the Countess Hoyos, Madame and Mlle. de Freycinet. I heard that amongst others a telegram of sympathy was received from Madame Sarah Bernhardt, who was in America. The pall bearers were the Count von Munster (the German Ambassador), Mr. Egerton, C.B. (Minister Plenipotentiary at the British Embassy), Sir E. Blount (representing the English Colony). M. Ribot (French Minister of Foreign Affairs), and MM. Jules Claretie and Camile Doucet, representing literature and science.

I shall never forget the scene in the streets. It had been arranged that the body of the late Earl should be taken from the Church in Rue d’Aguesseau to the Gare St. Lazare, to be conveyed to England. All the traffic was stopped between the Church and the railway station, and the streets were lined with military and police, and many thousands of spectators. It was said that 3,000 soldiers were employed, and that the procession took thirty minutes to pass any given spot. The demeanour of the immense crowd in the streets was most respectful and sympathetic, and all heads were bared as the coffin passed.

When we arrived at the railway, the hearse drew up at the entrance gate, and then followed a most impressive demonstration. I, with the other clergy and the sons of the deceased Ambassador, stood in front of the hearse; grouped round were the Ambassadors and State Officials, and now the entire body of the French troops filed past in review order and saluted the bier. I noticed that as the regimental flags were borne past, the Military Attachés saluted them and the civilians uncovered. The interment took place at Knebworth. We had a memorial service in Paris, and I made reference in the sermon to the distinguished services of the late Ambassador, and by request of Lady Lytton the sermon was published.

It was said at the time that the Earl of Lytton was the first Ambassador who had died at his post in Paris, but this is, I believe, not quite correct, as James Beaton, Archbishop of Glasgow, was Ambassador for Queen Mary and King James I. at the French Court, and he died in Paris in 1603. Curiously he was known as Jacques de Bethune de Balfour—the name Balfour being thus common to both families.

But a few weeks afterwards, and a second impressive and public service for the burial of the dead was held in the Embassy Chapel, this time as a memorial to the Duke of Clarence and Avondale. His early death had evoked a world-wide sympathy, and Her Majesty’s Chargé d’Affaires in Paris, Mr., now Sir E. H. Egerton, requested a public service. Upon this occasion the gorgeous diplomatic and military uniforms were not worn, as etiquette only prescribes the wearing of uniform at a funeral service in the case of a reigning sovereign, or of an Envoy Plenipotentiary. This fact, however, did but add to the solemnity of the scene. As was the case at the funeral service for the Earl of Lytton, the body of the Church was reserved for the French officials and the Corps Diplomatique, while the unreserved part was filled with members of the British Colony, all the ladies being dressed in mourning. The Church chancel and pulpit was draped with black and silver hangings, the porch outside being similarly decorated, the Royal arms being emblazoned in the centre. There was a large gathering of distinguished Frenchmen on this occasion: President Carnot was represented by Colonel Dalstein; the Prime Minister, M. de Freycinet, by Colonel Pamard; the Minister of Marine by Captain Thomas, of the Navy; and General Saussier, Governor of Paris, by Colonel Courbebaisse. M. Ribot, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, was present, and among other Frenchmen of prominence were M. d’Ormesson, Master of the Ceremonies; M. de Mahy, Vice-President of the Chamber of Deputies; M. Poubelle, Prefect of the Seine; the Duc de Luynes, and the Duc de Mouchy. Among the Diplomatic Corps I noticed Count Hoyos, the Austrian Ambassador; Colonel de Fréedéricksz, Military Attaché of the Russian Embassy; M. de Schön, of the German Embassy; M. Delyanni, the Greek Minister; Missak-Effendi, who replaced his chief, Essad Pasha, kept at home by influenza; the Baron de Almeda; M. Jusserand; Mr. Vignaud, of the United States Legation; General Meredith Read, and others. The members of the British Embassy were present “au grand complet,” headed by Mr. E. Egerton, Chargé d’Affaires, and Mr. Austin Lee.

I conducted the service, assisted by my valued colleague Rev. J. C. Pyper and two other clergymen, and preached from the text “Weep with them that weep.” Before closing I took occasion to thank those of other Nations for their kind expression of sympathy on the sad event. The guests were received at the Church door by Sir E. H. Egerton and Lt.-Col. the Hon. Reginald Talbot, the British Military Attaché, as we had no Ambassador yet appointed to succeed the Earl of Lytton. Real sympathy was very manifest through the whole service.

The following year (1893) there died in Paris a remarkable man, Rev. Whitaker McCall, the founder of the McCall Mission among the French people, whom it was my privilege to know during the last four years of his life. For twenty-three years this devoted man had worked in the lowest parts of Paris with remarkable success; so much so that in 1892 he was accorded the Cross of the Legion d’Honneur by the President of the French Republic as a mark of appreciation of the work he had done. He was also given the medal of the “Société libre d’Instruction et d’Education populaires,” and that of the “Société Nationale d’encouragement au Bien.” I believe he was the only Englishman who has thus been honoured, and this is the more remarkable as his work was purely and altogether religious. The Salles des Conferences scattered through Paris and the Provinces are a lasting tribute to his memory, and remain centres in which the work is still carried on. The funeral was held in the Church of the Oratoire in the Rue de Rivoli. A vast crowd filled the large building in every part. This church is remarkable from the fact that it was given to the French Protestants by Napoleon the Great, and at one time—before the Church in the Rue d’Aguesseau was bought—was used for English Church services on Sunday evenings. My friend Dr. Pigou, the Dean of Bristol, tells me that he frequently took services there when he was connected with the old Rue Marbœuf Church.

I was asked to take part in the funeral service of Mr. McCall, as representing the English Colony. It was a scene not easily forgotten. The immense crowd, the hymns sung in French, and the addresses—of which I gave one, in both French and English—were listened to with wrapt attention. It was the last and a loving tribute to one who has probably done more than any other to place the Word of God in the hands of the French people.