On the 15th I remained all day in Basha-Basha’s tent, occasionally appearing at the entrance to show myself to the crowd which had come to see me. In the evening I wanted to go for a walk, so, as an excuse, I proposed to visit Feyambiro. I had the greatest difficulty in persuading Basha-Basha and Gabratagli that I was not going to choose the site for an English fort there. They thought it most extraordinary that I should want to go for a walk, and Basha-Basha quietly ordered a detachment of soldiers to go with me! I carried out my intention, going four miles along a very uninteresting public path covered with people passing to and fro, between cultivated fields, and we came to a few huts belonging to a caravan of Berbera traders; and this, I was told, was Feyambiro, where all caravans from Somáliland unload and change to donkey transport, leaving the camels to graze at Feyambiro, as the road ahead, over the twenty-five miles to Harar, winds through deep gorges and is too rough for camels. Gabratagli asked why I should want to see Feyambiro, when I would pass it on the morrow while going to Harar. I got the exercise, but did not enjoy the trip, because I was dogged the whole way by a hundred Gálla peasants and Abyssinian soldiers.
We set out from Basha-Basha’s on the morning of the 16th March at seven o’clock. I left all the camels and camp at Feyambiro, taking on with me only my servants and a little personal baggage, the transport of mules and porters being supplied free of charge by Gabratagli. Passing over very hilly country intersected by deep gorges, we arrived at Harar at 2 P.M., being escorted for the last two or three miles by several companies of the soldiers of the Rás, in clean white dress, to the number, as I subsequently ascertained, of about a thousand.
As we arrived at the head of each company, the men presented arms in the Abyssinian way, and were marched off in front or in rear of the procession according to the place assigned to them, the whole being under the command of a Gerasmatch, or General of the Left.
Near Harar I caught sight of an European white helmet, and was met by Signor Felter, an Italian merchant, who spoke French fluently, and very kindly offered to come with me as far as Makunan’s house. Count Salimbeni and Signor Felter and another gentleman formed the Italian community at Harar at the time of my visit. The former had represented the Italian Government, but was shortly leaving for Aden.
I had an interview with the Rás at his audience-house in the centre of the town, the members of his household and leading men of Harar being present. The audience-room or shed was decorated with carpets, a raised dais at one end being reserved for the Rás; an European easy-chair or two occupied one side of the room, while the natives squatted on their heels on the carpets. The interview was short, as is the custom on first meeting, the visitor being supposed to be tired after his journey. Rás Makunan asked me a few questions about Aden. It seems that he not long ago went to Rome, where he received a decoration. He is well informed on European subjects.
After this interview I was taken to the house of Alaka Gobau Desta. He appeared to be a learned man, and his position in England would have been something similar to that of a college “Don,” though I think Alaka simply means “chief.” He spoke excellent English, and said he was a native of Gondar in Abyssinia. In the trimming of his hair and beard he called to mind pictures of Spanish gentlemen about the time of Queen Elizabeth. He was formerly in a mission at Zanzibar, where he learnt English; and he married a Goanese from India, since dead, who could paint in water-colours, and whose sketches were hanging on the walls of his house. My friend had furnished it as far as possible in the English style, and while there I enjoyed the comforts of an English lodging free of cost, besides good champagne and roast beef cooked by the wife of an Armenian who works for the Rás. I have nothing but pleasant recollections of the very graceful and kind hospitality of the Abyssinians at Harar, and of Signor Felter and his charming wife.
Jungle of “Wádi” Thorn-Trees and “Hig” Aloes; Subul Odli, Haud.
From a Photograph by the Author.