PAGE
Chapter I
Stamboul [1]
Chapter II
Mosque Yards [33]
Chapter III
Old Constantinople [74]
Chapter IV
The Golden Horn [113]
Chapter V
The Magnificent Community [148]
Chapter VI
The City of Gold [189]
Chapter VII
The Gardens of the Bosphorus [227]
Chapter VIII
The Moon of Ramazan [265]
Chapter IX
Mohammedan Holidays [284]
Chapter X
Two Processions [301]
Chapter XI
Greek Feasts [318]
Chapter XII
Fountains [352]
Chapter XIII
A Turkish Village [382]
Chapter XIV
Revolution, 1908 [402]
Chapter XV
The Capture of Constantinople, 1909 [425]
Chapter XVI
War Time, 1912-1913 [459]
Masters of Constantinople [545]
A Constantinople Book-Shelf [549]
Index [555]

ILLUSTRATIONS

Sultan Mehmed II, the Conqueror[Frontispiece]
From the portrait by Gentile Bellini in the Layard Collection
PAGE
A Stamboul street[5]
From an etching by Ernest D. Roth
Divan Yolou[9]
A house in Eyoub[11]
A house at Aya Kapou[12]
The house of the pipe[13]
That grape-vine is one of the most decorative elements of Stamboul streets[21]
A waterside coffee-house[23]
“Drinking” a nargileh[26]
Fez-presser in a coffee-house[27]
Playing tavli[29]
The plane-tree of Chengel-kyöi[31]
The yard of Hekim-zadeh Ali Pasha[35]
“The Little Mosque”[37]
From an etching by Ernest D. Roth
Entrance to the forecourt of Sultan Baïezid II[40]
Detail of the Süleïmanieh[41]
Yeni Jami[43]
Tile panel in Rüstem Pasha[50]
The mihrab of Rüstem Pasha[51]
In Rüstem Pasha[52]
Tiles in the gallery of Sultan Ahmed[53]
The tomb of Sultan Ahmed I[57]
In Roxelana’s tomb[59]
The türbeh of Ibrahim Pasha[63]
The court of the Conqueror[64]
The main entrance to the court of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha[65]
The interior of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha[67]
The court of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha[69]
Doorway in the medresseh of Feïzoullah Effendi[70]
Entrance to the medresseh of Kyöprülü Hüsseïn Pasha[71]
The medresseh of Hassan Pasha[72]
St. Sophia[77]
From an etching by Frank Brangwyn
The Myrelaion[83]
The House of Justinian[86]
The Palace of the Porphyrogenitus[90]
Interior of the Studion[93]
Kahrieh Jami[97]
Mosaic from Kahrieh Jami: Theodore Metochites offering his church to Christ[98]
Mosaic from Kahrieh Jami: the Massacre of the Innocents[101]
Giotto’s fresco of the Massacre of the Innocents, in the Arena chapel, Padua[101]
Mosaic from Kahrieh Jami: the Marriage at Cana[104]
The Golden Gate[109]
Outside the land walls[111]
A last marble tower stands superbly out of the blue[112]
The Golden Horn[115]
From the Specchio Marittimo of Bartolommeo Prato
Lighters[118]
Sandals[119]
Caïques[121]
Sailing caïques[122]
Galleons that might have sailed out of the Middle Ages anchor there now[123]
The Seven Sleepers of Ephesus[125]
From a Persian miniature in the Bibliothèque Nationale
The mihrab of Pialeh Pasha[131]
Old houses of Phanar[133]
The outer court of Eyoub[135]
Eyoub[137]
The cemetery of Eyoub[141]
Kiat Haneh[145]
Lion fountain in the old Venetian quarter[153]
Genoese archway at Azap Kapou[155]
The mosque of Don Quixote and the fountain of Sultan Mahmoud I[165]
Interior of the mosque of Don Quixote[167]
The admiral’s flag of Haïreddin Barbarossa[169]
Drawn by Kenan Bey
Grande Rue de Pera[180]
The Little Field of the Dead[181]
The fountain of Azap Kapou[183]
Fountain near Galata Tower[185]
The Kabatash breakwater[187]
Fresco in an old house in Scutari[191]
The Street of the Falconers[199]
Fountain in the mosque yard of Mihrîmah[201]
Tiles in the mosque of the Valideh Atik[203]
Chinili Jami[204]
The fountains of the Valideh Jedid[205]
Interior of the Valideh Jedid[207]
The Ahmedieh[209]
Shemsi Pasha[211]
The bassma haneh[213]
Hand wood-block printing[215]
The Bosphorus from the heights of Scutari[217]
Gravestones[221]
Scutari Cemetery[223]
In a Turkish garden[230]
A Byzantine well-head[232]
A garden wall fountain[233]
A jetting fountain in the garden of Halil Edhem Bey[235]
A selsebil at Kandilli[236]
A selsebil of Halil Edhem Bey[237]
In the garden of Ressam Halil Pasha[239]
The garden of the Russian embassy at Büyük Dereh[241]
The upper terrace of the French embassy garden at Therapia[243]
The Villa of the Sun, Kandilli[249]
An eighteenth-century villa at Arnaout-kyöi[252]
The golden room of Kyöprülü Hüsseïn Pasha[253]
In the harem of the Seraglio[261]
The “Cage” of the Seraglio[263]
A Kara-gyöz poster[271]
Wrestlers[275]
The imperial cortège poured from the palace gate[281]
From a drawing by E. M. Ashe
Baïram sweets[289]
The open spaces of the Mohammedan quarters are utilised for fairs[295]
Sheep-market at Yeni Jami[299]
Church fathers in the Sacred Caravan[305]
Housings in the Sacred Caravan[306]
The sacred camel[307]
The palanquin[308]
Tied with very new rope to the backs of some thirty mules ... were the quaint little hair trunks[309]
A Persian miniature representing the death of Ali[311]
Valideh Han[313]
Blessing the Bosphorus[321]
The dancing Epirotes[325]
Bulgarians dancing[336]
Greeks dancing to the strains of a lanterna[337]
The mosque and the Greek altar of Kourou Cheshmeh[348]
Wall fountain in the Seraglio[354]
Selsebil in Bebek[355]
The goose fountain at Kazlî[356]
The wall fountain of Chinili-Kyöshk[357]
Shadrîvan of Kyöprülü Hüsseïn Pasha[359]
Shadrîvan of Ramazan Effendi[360]
Shadrîvan of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha[361]
The Byzantine fountain of Kîrk Cheshmeh[365]
The two fountains of Ak Bîyîk[368]
Street fountain at Et Yemez[371]
Fountain of Ahmed III in the park at Kiat Haneh[373]
Detail of the fountain of Mahmoud I at Top Haneh[374]
Fountain of Abd ül Hamid II[375]
Sebil behind the tomb of Sultan Mehmed III[377]
Sebil of Sultan Ahmed III[379]
Cut-Throat Castle from the water[384]
The castle of Baïezid the Thunderbolt[385]
The north tower of the castle[387]
The village boatmen and their skiffs[397]
In the market-place[399]
Badge of the revolution: “Liberty, Justice, Fraternity, Equality”[405]
Cartoon representing the exodus of the Palace camarilla[412]
Soldiers at Chatalja, April 20[428]
Macedonian volunteers[437]
A Macedonian Blue[439]
Taxim artillery barracks, shelled April 24[441]
They were, in fact, reserves posted for the afternoon attack on Tash Kîshla[443]
Burial of volunteers, April 26[446]
Deputies leaving Parliament after deposing Abd ül Hamid, April 27[447]
Mehmed V driving through Stamboul on his accession day, April 27[451]
Mehmed V on the day of sword-girding, May 10[453]
Arriving from Asia[460]
Reserves[461]
Recruits[462]
Hand in hand[463]
Demonstration in the Hippodrome[465]
Convalescents[480]
Stuck in the mud[482]
The aqueduct of Andronicus I[484]
Fleeing from the enemy[485]
Cholera[498]
Joachim III, Patriarch of Constantinople[501]
The south pulpit of the Pantocrator[503]
Portrait of John VII Palæologus as one of the Three Wise Men, by Benozzo Gozzoli. Riccardi Chapel, Florence[505]
Church of the All-Blessed Virgin (Fetieh Jami)[515]
The lantern-bearers[517]
The dead Patriarch[519]
Exiles[523]
Lady Lowther’s refugees[526]
Peasant embroidery[532]
Young Thrace[533]

CONSTANTINOPLE OLD AND NEW

I, a Persian and an Ispahani, had ever been accustomed to hold my native city as the first in the world: never had it crossed my mind that any other could, in the smallest degree, enter into competition with it, and when the capital of Roum was described to me as finer, I always laughed the describer to scorn. But what was my astonishment, and I may add mortification, on beholding, for the first time, this magnificent city! I had always looked upon the royal mosque, in the great square at Ispahan, as the most superb building in the world; but here were a hundred finer, each surpassing the other in beauty and in splendour. Nothing did I ever conceive could equal the extent of my native place; but here my eyes became tired with wandering over the numerous hills and creeks thickly covered with buildings, which seemed to bid defiance to calculation. If Ispahan was half the world, this indeed was the whole. And then this gem of cities possesses this great advantage over Ispahan, that it is situated on the borders of a beautiful succession of waters, instead of being surrounded by arid and craggy mountains; and, in addition to its own extent and beauty, enjoys the advantage of being reflected in one never-failing mirror, ever at hand to multiply them.... “Oh! this is a paradise,” said I to those around me; “and may I never leave it!”

—J. J. Morier, “The Adventures of Hajji Baba of Ispahan.”