The top is octagonal or eight-sided. To make it, square up a piece to 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in. Measure the diagonal, take one-half of it and measure from each corner of the board each way along the edges to locate the places at which to cut off the corners. Connect these points, saw and plane the remaining four sides. There is to be a 5/8-in. bevel on the under side of the top. Scrape and sandpaper these edges and secure the top to the stretchers with screws.
Tabouret as Completed
Much time can be saved and a better result obtained if the wood finishing is done before the parts are put together. Especially is this true if stain and filler are used.
A very pretty finish and one easily put on even after the parts are put together is obtained as follows: Take a barrel and stuff up the cracks or paste paper over them so as to make it as near airtight as possible. In some out-of-the-way place put a dish with about 2 oz. of strong ammonia. Set the tabouret over this dish and quickly invert the barrel over the tabouret. Allow the fumes to act on the wood for at least 15 hours. Remove the barrel and allow the fumes to escape. Polish with several coats of wax such as is used upon floors. Directions for waxing will be found on the cans that contain the wax.. This produces the rich nut-brown finish so popular in Arts and Crafts furniture and is known as fumed oak.
HOW TO MAKE A MORRIS CHAIR
The stock necessary to make a morris chair of craftsman design as shown in the engraving can be purchased mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides as given in the following list:
- 4 posts 1-3/4 by 3 by 26 in.
- 2 front and back rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 24 in.
- 2 side rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 28 in.
- 2 arm pieces 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 37 in.
- 7 slats 3/8 by 2 by 24 in.
- 2 cleats 1 by 1 by 22-1/2 in.
- 2 back stiles 1 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in.
- 2 back rails 1 by 2 by 17 in.
- 3 back slats 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 19 in.
- 1 back support 3/4 by 3/4 by 24 in.
- 2 support rests 1 by 1-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.
- 2 dowels 1/2 in. diameter, 6 in. long.