Fig. 28.
External and Longitudinal Interior View of Whip-graft Union.
But to make the similarity between the bogus and genuine trees more striking, the practice has been resorted to of scarring the stocks so as to make them resemble the genuine article. This we have known to be done, more particularly in the case of budded trees. Incisions were made in the trunks of seedling trees to resemble those made in inserting a veneer-shield or an annular bud. The incisions were made so as to include a bud, and the top of the seedling tree was then cut off just above the bud. A tree doctored in this way makes a very close imitation of the real article, and the buyer needs to be on his guard. But the appearance of the bark, as already noted, will serve as a guide. If in doubt, it may be well to sacrifice a few trees and cut them carefully open down to the pith just through the point of union. If the trees have been doctored, the tissues of the wood and the pith will be continuous; but, if the trees are genuinely budded or grafted, the tissues and pith will not be continuous.
Fig. 29.
Annular bud growing (left). Split through same union (center). A normal branch union (right). Pith non-continuous (center); continuous (right).
Finally, if still in doubt, send two or three trees to the botanist or horticulturist of the Experiment Station of your State, and ask his opinion.
Planting Pecan Trees.
Too often but slight attention is given to this important piece of work. There is too frequently a disposition on the part of the person setting trees of any kind to do the work as rapidly as possible without consideration for the future welfare of the trees. Few realize that time spent in careful, intelligent preparation of the soil and in setting the trees is time well spent, and well paid for in the after development of trunk and branch. Better a month spent in preparing the future home of the young tree, than years of its life spent in an unequal struggle for existence. More than that, the tree may die outright, and a year must elapse before it can be replaced. It is generally stated that the pecan is a slow grower, and yet I have seen trees from twelve to fourteen years old which measured from thirty-five to fifty-seven inches in circumference at the base, while under less favorable circumstances others stood still for a period of six or seven years, or until they had accumulated sufficient energy to overcome the untoward conditions of their environments.
Time. The best time to plant pecan trees is during the months of December, January and February. Planting should not be delayed until late in spring, as the percentage of loss will be very materially increased. Preference must be given to the earlier portion of the planting season, as the wounds on the roots will have had time to callous over, and the ground will be firmly packed about the roots by the winter rains. Then, with the opening of the growing season in spring, the trees will be ready to make a good, vigorous start.
Distance Apart. The distance apart at which the pecan trees should be set must depend upon the character of the soil and the amount of fertility and moisture it contains. If planted too close, the trees may become their own worst enemies. Too close planting will not prove satisfactory. It is doubtful whether the trees should ever be planted closer than forty feet apart even on light lands, while on heavier soils this distance should be increased to sixty, seventy-five or eighty feet.
| TABLE OF DISTANCES | ||
| DISTANCE. | NO. OF TREES | NO. OF TREES |
| Rectangular System. | Hexagonal System. | |
| 40 x 40 feet. | 27 | 31 |
| 40 x 50 " | 21 | |
| 40 x 60 " | 18 | |
| 50 x 50 " | 17 | 19 |
| 50 x 60 " | 14 | |
| 60 x 60 " | 12 | 13 |
| 60 x 70 " | 10 | |
| 70 x 70 " | 8 | 9 |
| 80 x 80 " | 6 | |
| 100 x 100 " | 4 | |