THE BLACK AND COLOURED SILK CRAVAT.
The world in general is well informed of the source from which silk is derived; that it proceeds from an industrious insect of the order lepidoptera, known as the silk worm; which, in forming a light soft thread of almost infinite length, produces a bag, in which it undergoes the transformation from the chrysalis to the butterfly. As silk occupies so important a station in the toilet, it can hardly be less important that we should here offer a few remarks upon it.
Among the Romans the use of silk was general: scarcely any other material was worn on the neck. Augustus always used a silk handkerchief, and his example was imitated by all the petits-maitres of Rome, among whom the appearance of delicate health was considered a distinguishing mark of ton. It was also a constant attendant at the ladies’ toilet (mundus muliebris), and they called the handkerchief bissyna sudaria. It is probable that the Roman sidon resembled the large shawls now worn by the English ladies.
It appears that there was a company of silk-women in England as early as 1455; but these were probably employed in needle-work, as Italy supplied the broad material. Henry II, is said to have been the first who wore silk knit stockings; though the invention came from Spain, whence silk stockings were afterwards brought to Henry VIII. and Edward VI.
The advantages of this manufacture caused its introduction to be strongly recommended by James I. and in 1608 mulberry-trees were planted for the purpose of cultivating the worm—this, however, failed. Towards the latter end of this king’s reign (about 1620) the manufacture of broad silk was introduced; and in 1629 was so much increased that the silk throwsters were incorporated as a public body. In 1661 above 40,000 persons were employed.
The Revocation of the edict of Nantes in 1685, greatly promoted the English manufactures, as did also the invention of the throwing machine at Derby in 1719. Great improvements have since taken place, and our manufacturers now yield the palm to none.
The black silk Cravat is now generally worn, and coloured silk handkerchiefs have been partially patronized. Napoleon generally wore a black silk Cravat, as was remarked at Wagram, Lodi, Marengo, Austerlitz, &c. But at Waterloo it was observed that, contrary to his usual custom, he wore a white handkerchief, with a flowing bow, although the day previous he appeared in his black Cravat.
Coloured handkerchiefs should be as plain as possible; we must, however, give it as our opinion, that they can only be worn en déshabille at home, or when going to bathe, ride, &c. early in the morning.