In America, the fire-risk from mills is often lessened or prevented by the introduction of a jet of steam into the chamber or spout by which the mill discharges, but this is only permissible if the tanning material is conveyed at once to the leaches or yard.
The use of chain-conveyors for handling tanning material both wet and dry is practically universal in America, though comparatively rare in England. Various forms are used, the most common consisting of a chain of square links of malleable cast iron which hook into each other, so that a broken link can be immediately replaced (see [p. 325]). At intervals special links are inserted, which can be had of various patterns, for the attachment of scrapers or buckets. The endless chain runs in a trough of rectangular or V-shaped section, and is driven by a toothed wheel, over which it runs like a belt. In some cases the returning half of the chain can be utilised to bring back the spent tan on its way to the boiler house. For dry materials, cotton or leather belts with short wooden cross-laths attached, may often be used satisfactorily in place of the chain.
For lubricating purposes, mineral oils of high density are not more dangerous than animal or vegetable, but rather the reverse; as, though they are possibly more inflammable, and make more smoke, their mixture with cotton-waste and other porous materials is not spontaneously combustible, as those of vegetable and animal oils occasionally are. The danger of spontaneous combustion is very considerable when heaps of leather shavings or cuttings containing fish-oils are allowed to accumulate in warm workshops, and, especially near steam-pipes. Heavy mineral oils should always be used as cylinder-oils in high-pressure engines, in preference to other oils or tallow, since they are not decomposed by steam, and do no harm if blown into the feed-water, but serve to loosen and prevent scale and deposit. Ordinary oils and tallow, on the other hand, when submitted to the action of high-pressure steam, are separated into glycerin and fatty acids (see [p. 351]), and the latter corrode the valve faces and seatings, and are liable with “temporary hard” waters to form a very dangerous porous deposit in the boilers, which often leads to overheating of the tubes.
Next to the machinery, the pits demand special consideration. The chapter on the subject in the late Mr. Jackson Schultz’s book on ‘Leather Manufacture,’ is well worth attentive study as giving American practice on the subject.
The old-fashioned method of sinking pits is to make them of wood, and carefully puddle them round with clay, which should be well worked up before use. It is of no use to throw it in in lumps and attempt to puddle it between the pits, which will not be made tight, but probably displaced by the pressure. Such pits, if made of good pine and kept in constant use, are very durable, some of the original pits at Lowlights Tannery, constructed in 1765, having been in use till 1889. Loam mixed with water to the consistence of thin mortar may also be employed, the pits being filled up with water, to keep them steady, at the same rate as the loam is run in. Probably the best materials for pit-sides are the large Yorkshire flagstones. Where these are not attainable, very durable pits may be made of brick, either built with Lias lime, and pointed with Portland cement, or built entirely with the latter. Common lime cannot be used, as it spoils both liquors and leather; and even cements with too large a percentage of lime are unsatisfactory. Brick and common mortar are, however, suitable for lime-pits, and for these Mr. C. E. Parker’s plan of constructing the bottom of cement, the ends and sloping hearth of brick, and the sides of 3-inch planks bolted together is also very satisfactory ([Fig. 96]).
The writer has constructed wooden pits in two ways. In the one case, after making the excavation, beams were laid in a well-puddled bed of clay; on these a floor of strong tongued and grooved deals was laid, and on this the pits were constructed of similar wood to the floor, and puddled round with clay. In the second case the pits were built like large boxes above ground, and when finished, lowered on to a bed of clay prepared for them, and then puddled both around and between. It may have been due to defective workmanship in the first case, but those made on the last-named plan, which is that adopted from very early times, certainly proved the tightest and most satisfactory. Mr. Schultz describes a plan as the Buffalo method, in which a floor is laid as just described, and grooves cut with a plane for the reception of the sides, which are formed of perpendicular planks, each end and side being finally tightened up by the insertion of a “wedge plank.” Owing to the perpendicular position of the side-planks such pits would be difficult to repair in the common case of decay at the top.
Fig. 96.—Mr. C. E. Parker’s construction of Lime-Pits.
If bricks be used, great care must be taken that the cement is not merely laid so as to fill the joints towards the two surfaces of the wall, as is the habit of modern bricklayers, but actually floated into all the joints so as to make the wall a solid mass; or leaks can hardly be avoided. Hard pressed bricks are best, and should be tested as to whether they discolour liquor. Cement-pits are very good, and, though not particularly cheap in material, which must be of the best, are readily made by intelligent labourers under good supervision. The first step is to lay a level floor of good concrete, in which glazed pipes for emptying the pits may be embedded; care being also taken that all joints in these are thoroughly tight, since future repairs are impossible. The next step is to make frames, the exact length and breadth of the pits required, and perhaps 15 inches deep. These are arranged on the floor where the pits are to be, and the intervening spaces are filled with concrete of perhaps 1 of cement to 3 or 4 of crushed stone or brick. Rough stones and bricks may also be bedded in the concrete as the work goes on, to help to fill up. After the first layer has set, the frames may be raised and a second added, and so on. The work is generally finished by floating over it, while still damp, a little pure cement, to give a smooth surface. Before using, the cement should be tried on a small scale, to be sure that it does not discolour leather or liquors, and the pits should always be seasoned with old or cheap liquor before actual use.