[Illustrations have been moved from within paragraphs for ease of reading.
(note of e-text transcriber.)]

Boulevard des Italiens[Frontispiece]
Place de la Concorde[1]
The Left Bank of the Seine, from Notre Dame[4]
Right Bank of the Seine, from Notre Dame[5]
On the Boulevards—Corner of Place de l’Opéra[8]
Théâtre Français[9]
A Street Scene[11]
Notre Dame[12]
The Choir Stalls, Notre Dame[13]
Rue du Cloitre[16]
Apsis of Notre Dame[17]
The Leaden Spire, Notre Dame[20]
Gargoyles in the Sacristy, Notre Dame[21]
Church of Saint-Germain-l’Auxerrois[24]
(Map) Principal Streets of Paris[25]
Scene during the Massacre of St. Bartholomew[28]
The Pont-Neuf and the Louvre, from the Quai des Augustins[30]
By the Pont-Neuf[32]
Seine Fishers[32]
View from the Pavilion de Florefacing [33]
The Pont-Neuf and the Mint[33]
Statue of Henri IV. on the Pont-Neuf[36]
The Institute[37]
The Pont-Neuf from the Island[40]
View from the Western Point of the Île de la Cité[41]
Place de la Bastille and Column of July[45]
Junction of Grands Boulevards and Rue and Faubourg Montmartre[48]
The Bastille[49]
The Conquerors of the Bastille[53]
À la Robespierre[56]
A Lady of 1793[56]
A Tricoteuse[56]
Map showing the Extension of Paris[57]
Adrienne Lecouvreur[61]
A Duel in the Bois de Boulogne[64]
The Seine from Notre Damefacing [65]
Recruits[65]
Hôtel Carnavalet[68]
Hôtel Lamoignon[69]
Statue of Louis XIII. in the Place des Vosges[71]
The Place des Vosges, formerly Place Royale[72]
The Arcade in the Place des Vosges[73]
The Winter Circus in the Boulevard des Filles de Calvaire[77]
Louis Philippe[80]
Attempted Assassination of Louis Philippe[81]
A Parisian Café[84]
Place de la République[85]
Frédéric Lemaître[89]
Porte Saint-Martin and the Renaissance Theatre[92]
Church of Saint-Méry, Rue Saint-Martin[93]
Apsis of Church of Saint-Méry, Rue Brisemiche[96]
Notre Damefacing [97]
Entrance to the Faubourg Saint-Denis[97]
Boulevard and Porte Saint-Denis[101]
Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle and the Gymnase Theatre[104]
The Boulevard Montmartre[105]
Entrance to the Théâtre des Variétés, Boulevard Montmartre[109]
Cafés on the Boulevard Montmartre[112]
Molière[113]
Street Coffee Stall[114]
Boulevard des Italiens[116]
The 6th of June; the Last of the Insurrection[121]
Marivaux[124]
Paris in the Seventeenth Century[125]
Rue de la Chaussée d’Antin[128]
View from the Roof of the Opera Housefacing [129]
Mlle. Clairon[129]
View from the Balcony of the Opera[132]
Avenue de l’Opéra[133]
One of the Domes of the Opera House[135]
Eastern Pavilion, Opera House[136]
The Public Foyer, Opera House[137]
Western Pavilion, Opera House[140]
The Staircase of the Opera House[141]
The Madeleine[144]
Interior of the Madeleine[145]
Place de la Concorde[149]
Place de la Concorde, from the Terrace of the Tuileries[152]
Trial of Louis XVI[153]
Top of the Vendôme Column[155]
The Place Vendôme[157]
Rue Castiglione[160]
A First Night at the Comédie Française—The Foyerfacing [161]
Mirabeau[161]
Robespierre[164]
The Palais Royal[165]
Gardens of the Palais Royal[168]
The Palais Royal after the Siege[169]
The Montpensier Gallery, Palais Royal[170]
Entrance to the Comédie Française[172]
The Public Foyer, Comédie Française[173]
The Green Room, Comédie Française[176]
Molière[177]
Corneille[180]
Voltaire[181]
The Committee of the Comédie Française: Alexandre Dumas (the younger) Reading a Play[185]
Behind the Scenes, Comédie Française[186]
Entrance to the National Library in the Rue des Petits Champs[188]
The Bourse[189]
The Apollo Gallery—The Louvrefacing [193]
The Louvre, from the Place du Carrousel[193]
The Old Louvre (Pierre Lescot’s Façade)[195]
The Colonnade of the Louvre[196]
Portion of the Façade of Henri IV.’s Gallery, Louvre[197]
Top of the Marsan Pavilion, Louvre[200]
The Marsan and Flora Pavilions, Louvre, from the Pont-Royal[201]
The Richelieu Pavilion[205]
The Tuileries in the Eighteenth Century[208]
The Terrace, Tuileries Gardens[209]
The Tuileries Gardens[209]
Lion in the Tuileries Gardens[211]
The Chestnuts of the Tuileries[212]
Louis XVI. Stopped at Varennes by Drouet[213]
The Royal Family at Varennes[216]
Monument to Gambetta, Place du Carrousel[217]
The Horses of Marly, Champs Élysées[220]
The Elysée[221]
Saint-Philippe du Roule[221]
The Great Lake, Bois de Boulogne[223]
Avenue du Bois de Boulogne[224]
Arc de Triomphefacing [225]
Avenue des Champs Élysées[225]
Avenue Marigny, Champs Élysées[227]
Fountain in the Champs Élysées[228]
The Champ de Mars, 1889[229]
The Military School, Champ de Mars[232]
General La Fayette[233]
The Palais de l’Industrie, Champs Élysées[236]
View Showing Exhibition of 1889[237]
View from the First Platform of the Eiffel Tower[240]
The Trocadéro[241]
Hôtel de Ville in the Fifteenth Century[244]
Attack on the Hôtel de Ville, 1830[245]
Statue of Étienne Marcel on the Quai Hôtel de Ville[246]
The Municipal Council Chamber, Hôtel de Ville[248]
Île St. Louis[249]
The Quai de l’Horloge[252]
Pont au Change and Palais de Justice[253]
The Clock of the Palais de Justice[255]
Entrance to the Court of Assize[256]
The Palais de Justicefacing [257]
The Palais de Justice and Sainte-Chapelle[257]
The Façade of the Old Palais de Justice[260]
The Salle des Pas Perdus[261]
Police Carriages[263]
The Conciergerie, Palais de Justice[264]
The Sainte-Chapelle[265]
The Lower Chapel of the Sainte-Chapelle[267]
The Upper Chapel of the Sainte-Chapelle[268]
The Tribunal of Commerce[269]
A Pompier[272]
A Guardian of the Peace[273]
An Orderly of the Garde de Paris[274]
A Gendarme[277]
Principal Court of the Hôtel-Dieu[280]
Rue de Rivoli[281]
Façade of the Church of St. Gervais and St. Protais; and the Apsis, from the Rue des Barres[284]
Tower of Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie[285]
Hôtel de Beauvais[286]
Church of St. Louis and St. Paul[288]
Rue de Rivoli and Hôtel de Villefacing [289]
Rue Grenier-sur-l’eau[289]
The Pont-Marie[292]
Rue Saint Louis-en-l’Île[293]
Pont au Change, Place du Châtelet, and Boulevard de Sebastopol[296]
The Palmier Fountain, Place du Châtelet[297]
Rue de Venise[299]
St. Nicholas-in-the-Fields[300]
The Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers[301]
The Vertbois Tower and Fountain[303]
The Gaieté Theatre[304]
In the Temple Market[305]
The Temple Market[305]
Sixteenth Century Cloisters, Rue des Billettes[307]
Palace of the National Archives[308]
Hôtel de Hollande[309]
Turret at Corner of Rues Vieille du Temple and Francs Bourgeois[309]
Rue de Birague, leading to the Place des Vosges[311]
Fountain of the Innocents[312]
Saint-Eustache[313]
A Market Scene[315]
An Auction Sale of Poultry in the Central Market[316]
Rue Rambuteau in the Early Morning[317]
On the Way to the Central Markets[319]
The Fish Market[320]
Interior of the Mont de Piété, Rue Capronfacing [321]
The General Post Office[321]
The Poste Restante[321]
The Public Hall, General Post Office[323]
The Telephone Room at the General Post Office[324]
Place des Victoires[325]
Rue de la Vrillière[328]
In Père-Lachaise[333]
Parc des Buttes Chaumont[336]
Montmartre[340]
The Synagogue in the Rue de la Victoire[341]
St. Peter’s Church, Montmartre[343]
The Bells of St. Peter’s[343]
The New Municipal Reservoir and the Church of the Sacred Heart, Montmartre[344]
The Caulaincourt Bridge, Montmartre[344]
In the Parc Monceau[345]
Diana of Poitiers[348]
Marshal Ney[352]
The Race-course, Longchampsfacing [353]
Camille Desmoulins[356]
The Polytechnic School[357]
Notre Dame from the Pont Saint-Louis[360]
A Rag-picker[361]
A Rag-picker[364]
The Boulevard Poissonière[368]
Selling Goats[369]
The Bird Market[373]
Madame de Maintenon[375]

{Page 1}

PARIS, OLD AND NEW.

CHAPTER I.
PARIS: A GENERAL GLANCE.

“PARIS,” said Heinrich Heine, “is not simply the capital of France, but of the whole civilised world, and the rendezvous of its most brilliant intellects.” The art and literature of Europe were at that time represented in Paris by such men as Ary Scheffer, the Dutch painter, Rossini, the Italian composer, the cosmopolitan Meyerbeer, and Heine himself. Towards the close of the eighteenth century most of the European Courts, with those of Catherine II. and Frederick the Great prominent among them, were regularly supplied with letters on Parisian affairs by Grimm, Diderot, and other writers of the first distinction, who, in their serious moments, contributed articles to the Encyclopédie. At a much remoter period Paris was already one of the most famous literary capitals of Europe; nor was it renowned for its literature alone. Its art, pictorial and sculptural, was also celebrated, and still more so its art manufactures; while of recent years the country of Auber and Gounod, of Bizet, Massenet and Saint-Saëns, has played a leading part in the world of music. Paris, too, has from the earliest times been a centre of science and philosophy. Here Abélard lectured, and here the first hospitals were established. Then, again, Paris has a military history of singular interest and variety. It has been oftener torn within its walls by civic conflicts, and attacked from without by the invader, than any other European city; while none has undergone so many regular sieges as the capital of the country of which Frederick the Great used to say that, if he ruled it, not a shot should be fired in Europe without his permission.

Paris is at once the most ancient and the most modern capital in Europe. Great are the changes it has undergone since it first took form, eighteen centuries ago, as a fortress or walled town on an island in the middle of the Seine; and at every period of its history we find some chronicler dwelling on the disappearance of ancient landmarks. Whole quarters are known to have been pulled down and rebuilt under the second Empire. But ever since the Revolution of 1789, under each successive form of government and in almost every district, straggling lanes have been giving way gradually to wide streets and stately boulevards, and suburb after suburb has been merged into the great city.

The Chaussée d’Antin was at the end of the last century a chaussée in fact as well as in name: a mere high-road, that is to say; and there were people living under the government of Louis-Philippe who claimed to have shot rabbits on the now densely populated Boulevard Montmartre.

The greatest changes, however, in the general physiognomy of Paris date from the Revolution, when, in the first place, as if by way of symbol, the hated fortress was demolished in which so many victims of despotism had languished. “Athens,” says Victor Hugo, “built the Parthenon, but Paris destroyed the Bastille.” In the days when the great State {2} prison was still standing, the broad, well-built Rue Saint-Antoine, in its immediate neighbourhood, used to be pointed to by antiquarians as covering the ground where King Henry II. was mortally wounded in a tournament by Montgomery, an officer in the Scottish Guard. It was there, too, that, after the death of their protector, the “minions” of Henry II. slaughtered one another.