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Introductory Chapter. |
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CHAPTER I. |
Reminiscences of early Childhood—MyBirth-place—Sheikh Faris Biridi—EarlyTuition—Family Customs—Position of Shuay-fât,and Pastures—Inhabitants—Author quits for Beyrout | [5] |
CHAPTER II. |
Beyrout—Piratical Attack—Flight toMountains—Effects of the Assault upon the Inhabitants | [14] |
CHAPTER III. |
Damascus—Author’s First visitto—Description of the Town—The Inhabitants—TheCustoms and Manners—The Ladies—Their Beauty andFreedom—Court-yards andHouses—Bazaars—Environs—Soirées—Games—Specimensof Poetry and Songs—WonderfulLegend—Refreshments—Entertainment given by theBritish Consul—Privileges of Christians—PadreTomaso—American and BritishMissions—Population—Antiquity—Ravages byCholera | [18] |
CHAPTER IV. |
Return to Beyrout—American Mission—OriginalDifficulties they encountered—How overcome—TheEstimation of Physicians—Anecdote of Mr.Zohrab—American Doctors—Introduction toSchool—Reminiscences of School-days—Anecdote ofSheikh Ahmed—Lists of Missionaries—Adventure of Mr.Bird—The Pacha’s Revenge—Description of theRise of the Settlement and trade at Beyrout—Climate, Hintswith regard to | [41] |
CHAPTERV. |
Visit to Cyprus—Description of Voyage—Arrivalat Larnaca—Visit to Nicosia and other towns—CyprusWines—Languages—Departure for Tersous—Arrivalat Mersine—Scenery in Cilicia—Gardens—BuildingsofTersous—Streets—Climate—Inhabitants—SignorMichael Saba—Adana—Its Shops andStreets—Inhabitants—Fanaticism—Revolts—Pacha’sService—The Pass of KulekBughas—Scenery—Departure for Ayas | [57] |
CHAPTER VI. |
Ayas to Scanderoon—Scanderoon toAleppo—Description of Journey—TheAleppines—Their Style and Polish—A Weddingdescribed—Syrian Step-mothers—Jewish and Christianquarters—Earthquake of 1822—Pastimes and GardenParties—Population—Commerce—Departure forAntioch—Gessir il Haded—Orontes—Antioch | [71] |
CHAPTER VII. |
Antioch—Its Beauty and Fruitfulness—Visit toSuedia and Lattakia—Signor Mosi Elias—Hardshipsendured by Consular Agents—Anecdote of EnglishTravellers—Uses and Abuses of the ProtectionSystem—Fanaticism of MoslemPopulace—Produce—Lattakia toTripoli—Oranges—Abu Rish—SignorCatsoflis—A fair Intercessor for Justice to theInjured—Results of the Appeal—Cedars ofLebanon—Baalbec—Anecdote of EnglishForces—Turjaman Bashi—Strange Character of SayidAli—Damascus—Djouni and Sidon—LadyHesther—General Loustannau—Description ofSidon—Bombardment of St. Jean d’Acre—Kaipha andMount Carmel—Mistaken Ideas of Love | [85] |
CHAPTER VIII. |
First visit to England—Sail for Malta—Miseriesof Seasickness—Arrival at Malta—The EmirBeschir—Late Bishop of Jerusalem—Steam FrigateGorgon—Arrival at Portsmouth—Rev. BaptistNoel—London—Souvenir of Wimbledon—A Duelprevented—Anecdote of Druse Sheikh—Return toSyria—Sir George Otway—Arrival at Beyrout—Warbetween Druses and Maronites—Stamboul—Emir Kasim, hisHistory—Lord Cowley—Dr.Bennett—Mr. Goodall—Return toEngland—Malta—Marseilles—Adventure with FrenchOfficer—M. Guizot—Suliman Pacha—M.Thiers—Delicate Mission—Arrival inEngland—Prince Callimaki—Mr. Zohrab—Mr. B.Phillips—King’s College, London—MedicalProfession—Lectures—Frightful Accident—LongIllness—Admission as Member of King’sCollege—The Mir Shahamet Ali and Sir C. Wade—Visit toManufacturing Districts—Lamartine | [122] |
CHAPTER IX. |
Visit to Paris—FirstImpressions—Boulevards—ChampsElysées—Description of aLodging-house—Domestic Habits of the French—Englishand French Friendship—Departure for Constantinopleviâ Vienna | [164] |
CHAPTER X. |
Reminiscences ofStamboul—Entertainments—Songs—The Tailor andthe Sultan—The Sultan’s Condescension—Marriageof the Daughter of Prince Vogiredis—TurkishNavy—Present Crisis—A Renegade Girl | [170] |
CHAPTER XI. |
Egypt—Abbas Pasha and his Improvements—TheBritish Consul-General—Mr. Abet—Mr.Larking—BoghasBey—Antiquities—Climate—Library—Advantagesenjoyed by European Residents—Festivities—Fulfilmentof Prophecy—Late Gift of Horses presented by Nubar Bey toher Majesty—The Hon. G. Massey—Impressions made onthe Grooms | [184] |
CHAPTER XII. |
Visit to Devonshire, Bath, and Cheltenham—Visit toLady Rolle—Description of Bicton—Travelling by anExpress Train—A Coachman’s Remarks—ThePark—Arrival and Reception—Description of myLife—My Portrait taken—Amusements—Conversationwith Mrs. P--- of Exeter about the Greek Church—EnglishYoung Ladies—Cottage Visiting—Buildings erected byLady Rolle at Bicton—Amusing Anecdote of an EasternPrincess—Drive toExeter—Equipage—Cathedral—Frescoes—Gaol—Childin Prison there—Female Department—Villagers’ Opinions of me—Bath—Beautiesof Country reminded me ofSyria—Springs—Arrival—Sir ClaudeWade—Tour of the City—Society—Diversity ofReligiousOpinions—Service—Soirée—AgreeableRencontre—Second Visit to Bath—Bachelor’sBall—Lady Mayoress’s Ball at theGuildhall—Recognition as a Free-mason—Invitation to“The Lodge of Honour” to meet the Mayor—Meetingwith Dr. Thompson—Lecture—Quoted from thePaper—Visit to Cheltenham—Rev. J. Brown—Rev. C.H. Bromley—Meeting—My Address—Appeal to sendover for, and educate young Syrians at the Normal College atCheltenham—Case of a young Syrian Lad—LordNorthwick—His Collection ofPaintings—Conclusion—Reasons for appearing before thePublic as an Author | [197] |
CHAPTER XIII. |
Impressions of England—Letters to a Friend in theEast—Voyage toEngland—Landing—Custom-house—CrowdedThoroughfares—EnglishActivity—Hotel—Servants—Drive—MotleyGroups—Squares—Park—Houris—Heart-aches—Dinner—EnglishSplendour, but Syrian Ease and a Chibuk preferred—EnglishAcquaintances—Society—Young Ladies—TheirFreedom—Matrons—TheirAcquirements—Etiquette—Dress—Widows—Gentlemen—EnglishSabbath—Public Schools and Colleges—TheQueen—Missionary and Charitable Institutions—GreatWealth of the English—The Merchants—The FashionableWorld—The Opera—Expensive Pleasure—InsatiableCraving for Riches—Desire for an EnglishHome—Marriages—Children—Schooling—Absenceof Reverence for Beards—Devotion of the Young Fair Sex toUniforms—Kindness to Strangers—Interest in the HolyLand—Hospitality—Private Worth and PublicScheming | [216] |
CHAPTER XIV. |
Life, Manners, and Customs of Syria—Ceremonies atBirths—Christian Names—Remedies for InfantileDiseases—Early Instruction and Training—SyrianManners—Reverential Treatment of Priests—PersonalCleanliness—Education—Betrothal—Marriage—Polygamyof Mahommedans—Education of Girls—HouseholdMaxims—Domestic Snakes—Mourning for the Dead—ALover’s Lament | [233] |
CHAPTERXV. |
Syria and her Inhabitants—Description of theSouthern parts of Palestine—The Misery of itsInhabitants—Their Disposition and Labours—Sea-coastPopulation—Their Habits—ScripturalAnalogy—Sidon, Lebanon, Tripoli, Lattakia andAntioch—The Children of those Parts—Appeal to theBritish on behalf of Syria—Real State of the TurkishEmpire—Safety of English Investments—The TurkishDominions—How to purchase Property—English Emigrantswould be welcomed in Syria—Mr. John Barker—ColonelChurchill—Lady HesterStanhope—Fruits—Cultivation of theSoil—Advantages for the English Emigrant and Ameliorationfor Syria—Major Macdonald—His Discovery of Turquoisesand Presentation of some to the Queen—Advice toEmigrants—All Particulars and Expenses of Voyage explained,Outlay, Working, Expenditure and Profits derivable—Climaterecommended for Health | [259] |
CHAPTER XVI. |
Syria, her Inhabitants and their Religion—ReligiousTeaching in Syria—American Missionaries—TheirZeal—Greek or Orthodox Eastern Church—Interview andConversation with the Patriarch and Bishops atConstantinople—Letter from Syria—The Conversion ofthe Son of a Mufti to Christianity—Lord Shaftesbury and theProtestant College at Malta—Mahommedan Power and theChristian Churches in Syria—Claims of the Orthodox EasternChurch and its Affinity to the Protestant Churches ofEngland—The Four Patriarchs—Education of the SyrianPriesthood—The Service of the Orthodox EasternChurch—Dissenters from it—Account of Karolus theirPatriarch—Dispute about the Head-dress and reference toConstantinople—Decision—Jealousies of the ChristianSects—Political Animosities | [279] |
CHAPTER XVII. |
The Maronites—Their PoliticalPosition—Anecdote connected with the Year 1821—TheirCustoms, Manners, and Religion—The Number of RomanCatholics in Syria—The Copts—The Nestorians | [299] |
CHAPTERXVIII. |
The Population of Syria continued—The Metoulis orHeterodox Followers of Mahommed—The Druses—TheNosairiyeh—The Yezidees | [317] |
CHAPTER XIX. |
Appearance and Costume of the People—The AleppineGreeks—The Dyers—The Armenians—The Yahoodee orIsraelites—The Turkish Effendi—The Bedouins—TheFellaheen | [338] |
CHAPTER XX. |
The Occupations of the People—Lebanon inApril—The Mulberry Plantations—Anecdote—TheSilkworms—The Wheat Harvest—Borghol—TheVintage—The Olive Winter—The Resources ofSyria—The Small Capitalists in Syria | [352] |
CHAPTER XXI. |
The Comparative Influences of the Roman Catholic andProtestant Faiths in Syria—The Roman Catholics—TheirConvents—Greek and Armenian Monasteries—The Knowledgeand Practice of Medicine—The Influence of theHakeem—Anecdote—Conversions—The Sisters ofCharity | [370] |
CHAPTER XXII. |
The Remedy—The EarlyApostles—Physicians—Missionaries—Introductionof the Silkworm from China—Incorporation of the Medicalwith the Clerical Profession—Proposed Society to be formedinEngland—Hospital—School-rooms—Dispensary—Purchaseof Land—Its Cultivation—System ofEducation—Letter of Dr. Thomson—Mr. CuthbertYoung’s “Notes of a Wayfarer” | [384] |
APPENDIX. |
Notes on the Geology of Syria, by Professor Forbes | [397] |