Second comes the two-hook or Pennell tackle. In this case two small hooks are used, one being whipped on to the gut an inch above the other. The upper hook is put through the worm a quarter to half an inch below the head, the worm is then twisted once round the tackle between the hooks, and the lower hook is put through the lower end of the body. This is a very good form of tackle, and is the one preferred by the writers, as the worm lives longer on it than when threaded on a single hook, is livelier and has a more natural appearance in the water. The hooks should be size No. 3 in the scale before mentioned on page 8.
Third comes the Stewart tackle, which is the same in form as the Pennell, except that it has three hooks one above the other, instead of two. This is a tackle the writers have very seldom used, and they are therefore, perhaps, hardly competent to speak of its merits. Their experience, however, leads them to think that the three hooks cannot be sufficiently well concealed by the small worms which it is imperative to use in low clear waters, and that therefore the trout have a better opportunity of detecting the deception.
The next point in the outfit is waders, and these are absolutely essential if the best is to be got out of upstream worming. The fish must be approached from almost directly behind, which is impossible in most cases if the fishing is done from the bank.
Lastly, the angler should always carry a few small leads or sinkers which can be easily put on and easily removed. Split shot in various sizes, hammered flat, will do quite well. They will not often be required, but it is always as well to have them handy for the odd places where their use is necessary, which are described later.
And now a word as to worms. “Maiden dews,” so often advertised, are not the best for the purpose, but those known as “Pinktails” are the real thing; they should be small, say 2 inches in length, and of a pale pink colour. They should, of course, be well scoured, and they can be carried in moss in a bag hung round the neck.
With regard to throwing the worm, the two aims never to be lost sight of are accuracy and delicacy, and this combination can only be attained by constant practice. The man who can cast a fly will soon get the knack of putting the worm where he wishes, if he remembers that, when throwing the worm, the action is slower and more of a swing than in casting a fly, and that the rod point should be brought rather nearer the water at the finish of the cast. In addition to this, the arm should be pushed forward just as the worm is about a foot from the mark, in order to obviate any recoil and ensure that there shall be little disturbance of the surface as the worm drops into the water.
The greatest trouble of the novice is the frequency with which he flicks the worm off the hooks, particularly if the day’s supply has not been well scoured. To master this trouble all jerks must be avoided, both when withdrawing the worm from the water and also when the cast is extended behind. As before stated, the movement should be more of a swing than in fly casting, with just sufficient power to extend the line behind and the same in front; there will then be few lost or broken worms.
The next and, without doubt, the most essential point for consideration is where to fish.
Imagine a bright day towards the end of June on the banks of a typical North Country river. The gate just passed through brings one to the tail end of a rapid stream some fifty yards in length, broken here and there by boulders, some submerged and others just showing their dark mossy heads above the surface of the water. At the head of the stream there is a line of submerged stepping stones which no doubt many years ago, before the bed of the river changed, served a useful purpose.