I obtained permission to go to Paris, so am leaving on the one p.m. train with Russell. Packed my valise and am off. It is good to get away from the crowd and to be free, even for a few hours.
We arrive in Paris at ten p. m. There were very few taxis, but we managed to secure one and went to the Ritz. Paris is absolutely dark; a dim light flickers every two blocks, but the streets are so dark in the interim that it is with difficulty you can see people approaching. At ten as we drove down the Rue de la Paix and into the Place Vendôme it was absolutely deserted save for two girls. This is not metaphor, but absolute.
After depositing our bags we groped our way along the Rue de Rivoli and into the Place de la Concorde. Three belated private limousines sneaked past us as if they were ashamed to be out so late. Otherwise, silence and darkness. It was as if the hand of death had suddenly closed down on the whole world and left one with an eerie, creepy feeling. A lone gendarme was standing under a feeble lamp. He seemed glad to see us. I counted eight lamps burning in the place and that was all. The change was profound, almost terrible. I shall be glad to get to the hotel and in my room and turn on all the lights.
July 23rd. A wonderful night twixt clean, snowy white sheets, a rack full of white clean towels and a porcelain tub all my own and hot water. If any man with soul so dead cannot appreciate what that means, let him follow the U. S. A. for three weeks. If he goes in the field under canvas he is lucky, but if he is thrust in dirty hotels that have been used as hospitals for three years, heaven help him, because no one else will, and certainly not the U. S. A.
Sent a note to Gabrielle Dorziat saying I was in town and asked her to dine with me, but when I called she had gone to Épernay for a few days. I was awfully sorry not to have seen her.
Spent the whole morning tearing around with Russell. The Embassy, Morgan, Harjes, American Express, etc. We went to Army Headquarters at 21 Rue Constantin where I tried to present a letter to Colonel Bradley, the M. O., but we found Medical Headquarters are at 10 Rue Ste. Anne. Bradley was away, but we saw Mr. Ireland, Colonel. He is the king-pin of the show. He gave us the depressing news that we would in all probability be permanently stationed at Vittel. Called on Lillie Havemeyer. She was moving to a new apartment at No. 38 Avenue Gabriel. All was chaos, but she gave me a warm welcome and asked me to lunch with her at Laurens the next day. Later I went to see Henry Clews.
Henry has a charming hôtel with a lovely garden. A fountain with ducks and goldfish. A nice sleepy cat was watching the pigeons, and a bulldog was watching the cat. The peace and quiet were wonderful. We had tea in the garden. Henry was very quiet and just what his view of the whole situation is it was hard to gather. He was very hospitable and asked me to make my headquarters there any time I was in Paris.
We dined at the Tavern Royal with a quart of sweet champagne. But the best of all was a couple of cocktails at Maxim's beforehand. The Maître d'Hôtel was very loquacious and told us most impressively that America had come in none too soon because France was at the end of her tether. This is what we heard everywhere.
Paris by day appears on the surface very much as when we left in September, 1914. The streets are crowded with uniforms of every description and every now and then an American one, but as yet they are very much in the minority.
July 24th. Lunched with Lillie Havemeyer and Freddy. The afternoon, more errands, a lemonade at Fouquet's, and dinner with Mrs. Duryea in the evening. A very pleasant home dinner, just four—a Miss Carrol making the fourth. In the evening M. Robinson came in. He apparently had the affairs of France on his shoulders.