To bend a ring or eye in the end of a bar, first figure the length of stock needed by multiplying the diameter of the hole by 31/7, then heat the piece to a good full red at a point this distance back from the end. Next bend the iron over at a 90 degree angle (square) at this point. Next, heat the iron from the bend just made clear to the point and make the eye by laying the part that was bent square over the horn of the anvil and bending the extreme tip into part of a circle. Keep pushing the piece farther and farther over the horn of the anvil, bending it as you go. Do not hammer directly over the horn of the anvil, but on the side where you are doing the bending.
To make the outside of a bend square, sharp and full, rather than slightly rounding, the bent piece must be laid edgewise on the face of the anvil. That is, after making the bend over the corner of the anvil, lay the piece on top of the anvil so that its edge and not the flat side rests on the anvil top. With the work in this position, strike directly against the corner with the hammer so that the blows come in line, first with one leg of the work, then the other, and always directly on the corner of the piece. This operation cannot be performed by laying the work so that one leg hangs over the anvil's corner.
To make a shoulder on a rod or bar, heat the work and lay flat across the top of the anvil with the point at which the shoulder is desired at the edge of the anvil. Then place the set hammer on top of the piece, with the outside edge of the set hammer directly over the edge of the anvil. While hammering in this position keep the work turning continually.
To draw stock means to make it longer and thinner by hammering. A piece to be drawn out is usually laid across the horn of the anvil while being struck with the hammer. The metal is then spread in only one direction in place of being spread in every direction, as it would be if laid on the anvil face. To draw the work, heat it to as high a temperature as it will stand without throwing sparks and burning. The fuller may be used for drawing metal in place of laying the work over the horn of the anvil.
When drawing round stock, it should be first drawn out square, and when almost down to size it may be rounded. When pointing stock, the same rule of first drawing out square applies.
Upsetting means to make a piece shorter in length and greater in thickness or width, or both shorter and thicker. To upset short pieces, heat to a bright red at the place to be upset, then stand on end on the anvil face and hammer directly down on top until of the right form. Longer pieces may be swung against the anvil or placed upright on a heavy piece of metal lying on the floor or that is sunk into the floor. While standing on this heavy piece the metal may be upset by striking down on the end with a heavy hammer or the sledge. If a bend appears while upsetting, it should be straightened by hammering back into shape on the anvil face.
Light blows affect the metal for only a short distance from the point of striking, but heavy blows tend to swell the metal more equally through its entire length. In driving rivets that should fill the holes, heavy blows should be struck, but to shape the end of a rivet or to make a head on a rod, light blows should be used.
The part of the piece that is heated most will upset the most.
To punch a hole through metal, use a tool steel punch with its end slightly tapering to a size a little smaller than the hole to be punched. The end of the punch must be square across and never pointed or rounded.
First drive the punch part way through from one side and then turn the work over. When you turn it over, notice where the bulge appears and in that way locate the hole and drive the punch through from the second side. This makes a cleaner and more even hole than to drive completely through from one side. When the punch is driven in from the second side, the place to be punched through should be laid over the spud hole in the tail of the anvil and the piece driven out of the work.