At about eight o’clock I sent off Mr. Tinkham, accompanied by the two Boulieaus, well mounted, with instructions to go southward, determining the position of the headwaters of Bald Hillock Creek, and thus connecting his work with Mr. Lander’s reconnoissance; thence westward in a line nearly parallel with our route of to-day, making a reconnoissance of the tributaries of the Jacques River (James), leaving it to his discretion whether to join our camp to-night or the next day. By this we would secure the reconnoissance of a belt of country forty miles wide, lying between the Sheyenne and Jacques (James) rivers.
About eleven miles from camp we crossed a deep slough. About a mile farther on we crossed a fine little stream which I took to be Beaver Lodge Creek. Shortly afterwards Boutineau killed a fine buffalo cow, not twenty feet from the compass line. The dispatch and dexterity with which these men cut up buffalo is truly astonishing. Before the cart came up, the animal was entirely butchered, and had only to be thrown into the cart. We moved forward to-day some sixteen miles, and camped on the side of a small lake. We had scarcely got into camp before we were visited by a very severe storm, accompanied by thunder and lightning. Our fires were put out by the rain, and during a temporary cessation were built up again; but it soon came on with increased violence, and our fires were again washed out. About six o’clock two of Mr. Lander’s party who left us on the 4th arrived in camp, announcing that Mr. Lander and the rest of his men were only some three or four miles behind, with considerable difficulty bringing in the horses, which were giving out.[3] I dispatched two men with led horses to meet them, and about sundown they came up. We found great difficulty in keeping up our fires so as to get our supper cooked. The rain fell in torrents, our supply of wood was limited, and the buffalo chips were so wet as to be entirely useless.
Towards the close of the day’s march I became disabled from my exertions in endeavoring to keep off a herd of buffalo from the train, causing an old wound to break out, which compelled me to ride many hundred miles in the ambulance.
July 13. A very heavy fog this morning delayed our getting off as early as expected, and the hope of Tinkham and his small party joining us made me less hurried about starting. Sixteen miles from camp we struck James River, and crossed over a good ford, from which point I sent Mr. Lander down the river to examine it. Noticing that the river ran very nearly in the course of our compass, we followed it, and again crossing it some five miles above, we encamped. I had a large amount of rushes collected, with a view of building as large a camp-fire as practicable, in order to give notice to Tinkham of our position, he not having returned.
July 14. The missing party not having arrived, three rounds of the howitzer were fired at sunrise, and we started later than usual. It was evident that the whole camp was in a great state of anxiety for the safety of our comrades. Many believed that they had fallen in with Indians, and were deprived of their horses and their lives. Taking everything into consideration, I deemed it best to leave a party at this point so equipped as to combine great energy and force with promptness of movement, so as to be able to overtake the main train without difficulty. Accordingly Mr. Lander was left in charge of the engineer wagon and the wagon belonging to the mountain howitzer, which was made light enough to be moved with ease forty miles in a single day. The howitzer was also left with him for the purpose of making signals. Mr. Doty, with three voyageurs and three men to manage the howitzer, together with the teamsters of the ammunition wagon, remained with Mr. Lander, having abundance of arms, provisions, animals, etc., to supply any emergency. This party was instructed to keep up fires, to fire three rounds with the howitzer at noon and at sunset should the party not arrive, and to communicate with us if any casualty occurred.
A party of four brave and thorough woodsmen, whose knowledge of the prairie life was derived from experience in many expeditions, and who well understood the Indian character, were sent out on the route traveled yesterday, and were directed, after traveling some eight or ten miles, to leave the road, and, going in different directions, to plant signals and scour the country. I felt certain that Mr. Tinkham would be found by these men, if found at all.
The remainder of the train left about seven o’clock, pursuing the same course as yesterday. The first ten miles was over a level plateau. We encamped about 4.30 o’clock at the bank of a fine lake, having made to-day a distance of little over twenty miles. The mosquitoes were exceedingly annoying, flying against the sides of the tents with a noise like the pattering of rain, while the inside was perfectly black with them. Their constant humming drove the men out into the open air, and rendered it almost impossible to sleep.
July 15. At daybreak Broadwell went back to Lander’s camp, and I dispatched Osgood and Kendall to a high hill to reconnoitre and look for a new camp. The guides and hunters were also sent on to the Sheyenne to ascertain the distance, and if not too far we would go to it. Being very unwell, I laid by all the morning, and the delay of the train was employed in shoeing the animals, equalizing loads, and arranging them in such a manner as to give about nine hundred pounds to each wagon, and so distributed in bulk that a portion of each wagon could be appropriated to the conveyance of wood and the meat killed each day.
The men are much interested in the labors of Dr. Suckley, the naturalist. It is amusing to see each one making his contribution of snakes, reptiles, birds, bugs, etc.
Near noon Osgood and his party returned, having been to the Sheyenne, where they found no wood, poor grass, and swarms of mosquitoes. Soon after the guides returned, announcing that they had seen a party of Sioux of a thousand lodges, not more than nine miles in advance of us. Boutineau’s manner was full of fear, and his public announcement spread alarm through the whole camp. I at once gave orders to make ready, with the intention of visiting their camp; and, calling Boutineau to my tent, asked him whether they were not the Red River hunting party. He assured me indignantly that “he knew half-breeds from Indians, and that they were certainly Sioux.”