July 22. Left camp about 6.30 o’clock, and found the crossing of the coulee, about half a mile to our left. On the other side of the coulee we have a fine level plateau ahead. The grand Coteau du Missouri was in sight all day. The depth of the first coulee, as indicated by the barometer, was eighty-two feet below our camp. About four miles out we crossed another severe coulee one hundred and eight feet below the level of our camp. The third coulee was a depression of fifty-four feet, the prairie level being some forty-two feet lower than the level of our last camp.
While making our usual midday halt we were overtaken by two hunters of the Red River train from the vicinity of the Selkirk settlements, who were encamped some eight miles distant. They invited me to visit them, which I determined upon doing, and, placing the train in charge of Dr. Suckley, I gave him directions to move on some eight miles, find a good camping place, and await my return.
July 23. During my absence this morning Dr. Suckley sent Le Bombard and Sergeant Lindner ahead some twelve miles to reconnoitre for a good road for the train; Messrs. Tinkham and Burr went to the Mouse River, and Mr. Moffett, accompanied by Broadwell, went to the Grand Coteau.
I sent Guy and Rummell ahead to Dr. Suckley’s camp to apprise him of our coming. At about four o’clock, accompanied by Governor de L’Orme and seven of his principal men, we started towards Dr. Suckley’s camp. The whole force of the survey, headed by Dr. Suckley, Sergeant Lindner bearing an American flag, met us about a mile out of camp, and saluted us with a volley from their guns, the mountain howitzer being fired three times. A large tent was put up for the accommodation of our guests, and Governor de L’Orme was invited to share my tent. The guard tent was made use of as a banqueting-room, and several of the men were detailed to collect buffalo chips. The cooks of the various messes assisted each other, and the meal was ready for us about nine o’clock. Tinkham and Burr got in just in time to partake of it with us, as also did Moffett and Broadwell. Mr. Moffett reported the height of the bluff or Coteau range as seven hundred and two feet above the level of Mouse River, and distant twenty miles from it; the height of the hill seven miles from the camp of to-day is two hundred and fifty-six feet.
Seated around the camp-fire, we had a very pleasant conference with our friends. I was very favorably impressed with Governor de L’Orme, and with his opinion in regard to their right to hunt on our territory, they being residents of the country north of our boundary line. They claim the protection of both governments, and the doubt as to the position of the boundary line makes them ignorant as to which one they have the most claim upon. During the hunting season they carry with them their families and their property, and they consider that this territory is open to them, that the right to hunt on it belongs to them, and that their children born during this transit over our soil possess the heritage of American citizens. With but little care, our government could obtain the whole of these people as citizens, thus protecting and building up our frontier, and having in this vicinity always a controlling check upon the Indians. Already is the salutary effect of their presence visible in the entire safety, now, with which single white men and small parties can go through this country. Their virtuous mode of life, their industry and frugality, their adaptation to frontier life, all combine to render them a valuable class of people, and well worthy the attention of our government. They expressed a desire that I should represent these things to the government, and I assured them that I would do so with pleasure. Governor de L’Orme, before retiring to rest, attended to his devotions, and I have been struck with his piety and real goodness, manifested in his conduct and conversation.
July 24. We took a late breakfast this morning, and after parting with our guests we got off at nine A.M. We halted for two hours at noon, during which time the hunters went out and drove a herd of buffalo towards us, and right on the line killed two fine cows. I sent Mr. Tinkham and Paul Boulieau out to the Mouse River, which they followed some distance, as also the River of the Lakes, joining us at camp at eight P.M. We made fifteen miles and a quarter to-day, and the grazing is excellent.
July 25. The express started this morning at six for Fort Union, which I think cannot be over one hundred and fifty miles distant. It consists of Mr. Osgood, Boutineau, Henry Boulieau, and Gray. They are to procure additional wagons or carts at Fort Union, and carry letters to Lieutenants Grover and Donelson. Messrs. Tinkham, Lander, and Paul Boulieau went to-day to make an examination of the Mouse River valley and the River of the Lakes. We had but one coulee to cross, and that was shallow, and offered no impediment. We made to-day twenty-one miles, and found fine grass and excellent water at our camp.
July 26. We started this morning about six o’clock, and, traveling eleven and one half miles, we halted on the bank of a lake. A herd of buffalo approached on the south side of this lake to drink, and crossed within gunshot on the opposite side. Some of our party fired at them, and Le Bombard followed, and killed a fine, fat cow. About seven miles farther on I received a letter from Mr. Osgood by the hands of an Assiniboine Indian. The express party camped last night about ten miles ahead of this place at a large encampment of Assiniboine Indians, numbering some one hundred and fifty lodges and twelve hundred persons. The Indians built for them a lodge in the centre of their camp, and treated them with great hospitality. One of them offered to act as Mr. Osgood’s express, and he told them that on my arrival I would have a talk with them and make them some presents. By this note I also learned that Lieutenant Grover had passed some eight miles to the east of our line about four days ago.
July 27. Reaching camp a little after noon, fifteen miles from last night’s camp, and about a quarter of a mile from that of the Assiniboines, numbers of Indians rode out to welcome us. We found them to be under the command of the chiefs Blue Thunder and Little Thunder, the latter probably thirty-six years of age. As soon as we were encamped, they informed me that they had reserved a present of skins for me, and were making preparations to have a talk. While dinner was being prepared, many seated themselves in squads around the tents, smoking with the men. One large pipe served a dozen, and the custom adopted is to smoke it a little and pass it to their neighbor, and thus go round. It is the first signal of welcome or friendship after the hand is offered, and they will have no business or other transaction previous to it.
After dinner, accompanied by Dr. Suckley, Messrs. Stanley, Lander, Tinkham, Everett, Evans, Adams, Menoc, with Paul Boulieau, Le Bombard, and Le Frambois as interpreters, I went to their camp, which was irregularly arranged in a sort of corral, consisting of about one hundred and fifty lodges, averaging ten persons to each lodge.