September 28. Keeping up the west bank of the Bitter Root River we crossed two streams, one being the Traveler’s Rest Creek of Lewis and Clark, and, passing through a grove of pine timber, in twelve and one half miles crossed the Bitter Root River, just before reaching which we met some Indians from Fort Owen. Lieutenant Arnold, whom we met after crossing the river, on his way to Victor’s camp, returned with us. We reached Fort Owen[5] about noon, where we met the other gentlemen of Lieutenant Arnold’s party. I found Mr. Lander in camp near Fort Owen, and learned that he arrived the day before yesterday.
Fort Owen is situated on the Scattering Creek of Lewis and Clark. It was a matter of the greatest gratification, with their narrative in hand, to pass through this valley and realize the fidelity and graphic character of their descriptions. Lieutenant Arnold had been jerking beef against our arrival, and making all arrangements to enable us without delay to push on westward. I examined very carefully into the condition of the train left by Lieutenant Saxton, and of the provisions brought to this point, and had every reason to congratulate myself for having assigned to him this undertaking. We found there nearly two thousand rations, but the animals were very few of them serviceable, yet from their appearance it was obvious that none of them would continue unserviceable for any considerable time, and I believed they would be entirely equal to any service which Lieutenant Mullan’s duties might require of them.
September 29–October 3. During these days we were all occupied in making arrangements for the movement of the parties westward, and to establish Lieutenant Mullan’s winter post. Lieutenant Donelson arrived on the 29th with the main party, and Lieutenant Mullan on the 30th with a delegation of chiefs from the Flathead nation.
It will not be attempted here to give any extended account of the explorations made by the detached parties, which is very fully done in the final report by Governor Stevens. No less than nine passes across the main chain, covering the range from the 49th parallel to the Yellowstone, and four passes across the Bitter Root Range, were examined. The most northerly of these, the Marias Pass, is now traversed by the Great Northern Railroad, and one of the more southerly ones, the Mullan Pass, situated some fifty miles south of Cadotte’s Pass, is crossed by the Northern Pacific Railroad.
Mr. Lander ran a line from the Marias River via the Teton, Sun, and Dearborn rivers to Lewis and Clark’s Pass, being the one crossed by Captain Lewis on his return trip, and situated twelve miles north of Cadotte’s Pass, and made an examination of the pass. After traveling some distance down the valley of the Blackfoot, he left it, and went across country to the Hell Gate River, and moved up the valley of this stream, mistaking it for the Bitter Root. Finally, realizing his mistake, he turned from it, and, crossing over a number of divides and streams, he followed an Indian trail which led him to Fort Owen. In consequence of this eccentric route, and his animals having been much pushed, they came in exceedingly jaded, although he started with the best train of the whole party. He made no observations bearing upon the railroad line except for seven miles of the pass, a short distance thence down the Blackfoot valley, and a small portion of the Hell Gate valley.
Lieutenant Mullan’s trip to the Muscle Shell was a very extended one, four hundred and fifteen miles in length. He returned by the pass which now bears his name, accompanied by a delegation of the Flathead Indians.
Mr. Tinkham, after examining the approaches to Cadotte’s Pass from the Sun River, on a more northern route than that taken by the main party, had left it at the camp of the 26th on the Blackfoot to explore a route westward to the Jocko and Clark’s Fork, which it was expected might prove a cut-off, and had not yet rejoined the main party.
On September 30 and October 1 Governor Stevens had conferences with the chiefs of the Flatheads, and broached to them his great idea of a Blackfoot peace council. They were very doubtful at first, having too recent and bitter experience of Blackfoot depredations. What should they do, they asked, in case the Blackfeet came near their camp at night? In reply the governor advised them not to attack unless it was evident they intended to do mischief. Still they must not remain quiet and see their men killed or horses stolen. “I would leave Lieutenant Mullan with ten or fifteen men to protect you from the Blackfeet, but they have promised not to disturb you, and I believe they mean to abide by it,” etc. After considering the matter for a day among themselves, the Indians promised to attend the council.
The governor decided to establish a post in the Bitter Root valley for the winter, under the charge of Lieutenant Mullan, in order to determine the winter regimen of the mountains, the depth and duration of snow, the climate, etc. Thirteen men were left with Lieutenant Mullan, and a large band of animals and ample supplies, and he was instructed to make careful meteorological observations during the winter, to continue the exploration of the mountain section, extending it to Fort Hall on the south, and as far as Flathead Lake or Clark’s Fork on the north, and to keep a watchful and protective eye over the Flathead Indians.
The governor directed Lieutenant Donelson to proceed with the main party by way of Clark’s Fork and Pend Oreille Lake, and assigned Lander to duty with him for side examinations, while the governor himself took the more direct but rugged Cœur d’Alene route over the Bitter Roots. To Dr. Suckley was intrusted the adventurous duty of descending the Bitter Root River, Clark’s Fork, Pend Oreille Lake, and the Columbia River by canoe to the Dalles, then the frontier settlement. Lieutenant Arnold was to proceed from Pend Oreille Lake, separating from the main party at that point, in a direct westerly course to Colville, and thence to explore the plains of the great bend of the Columbia, east of that river.