I have heard of an ingenious method of hunting deer which is practiced by the Indians. When the Cœur d’Alenes, Pend Oreilles, Spokanes, and Nez Perces meet together to fish and hunt, they form a large circle, and upon the trees, around its circumference, attach pieces of cloth made to resemble the human figure as much as possible. Then the hunters enter the area and start up the deer. Each cloth having the effect of a man, the deer, being afraid to pass them, are kept within the circle and easily killed. Last year the Pend Oreilles killed eight hundred in one hunt; the Cœur d’Alenes, more than four hundred.
When the Indians returned from the field I addressed them as follows:—
“I am glad to see you and find that you are under such good direction. I have come four times as far as you go to hunt buffalo, and have come with directions from the Great Father to see you, to talk to you, and do all I can for your welfare. I see cultivated fields, a church, houses, cattle, and the fruits of the earth, the work of your own hands. The Great Father will be delighted to hear this, and will certainly assist you. Go on, and every family will have a house and a patch of ground, and every one will be well clothed. I have had talks with the Blackfeet, who promise to make peace with all the Indian tribes. Listen to the good Father and to the good brothers, who labor for your good.”
October 15. We started at eight o’clock, after having given Brother Charles as many lariats for raising the timbers of the church as we could spare, and made eighteen miles and a quarter, meeting on the way some forty Indians, Cœur d’Alenes, Nez Perces, and Spokanes, on their way to buffalo. We camped to-day in a beautiful prairie, called the Wolf’s Lodge, with good grass. Here we found nearly a hundred Spokanes, with some three hundred horses, on their way to the hunt. Towards sundown this evening I was greatly interested in observing the Spokanes at their devotions. A bell rang, and the whole band gathered in and around a large lodge for evening prayers. There was something solemn and pathetic in the evening psalm resounding through the forests around us. This shows what good results can flow from the labors of devoted missionaries, for the Spokanes have had no religious instruction for the last five years. As I went down the river and met band after band of the Spokanes, I invariably found the same regard for religious services.
Afterwards they came around to my camp-fire, and we had a talk. Garry, they say, is at his farm, four miles from the Spokane House.
October 16. We started at eight o’clock, our route being through an open wooded prairie. Soon after leaving camp the Cœur d’Alene Lake came in view to the south of us, and eleven miles from camp we struck it near its western extremity. It is a beautiful sheet of water, surrounded by picturesque hills, mostly covered with wood. Its shape is irregular, unlike that given it upon the maps. Its waters are received from the Cœur d’Alene River, which runs through it. Below the lake the river is not easily navigable, there being many rapids, and in numerous places it widens greatly, and runs sluggishly through a shallow channel. Above the lake I am informed by the missionaries that it is navigable nearly to the Mission. Leaving the lake, we followed the river on its northern bank, passing a camp of Cœur d’Alenes, occupied with their trout fisheries. Here we witnessed a touching sight, a daughter administering to her dying father. Still keeping through open woods on a most excellent road, in two miles farther we came to the Cœur d’Alene prairie, a beautiful tract of land containing several hundred square miles. After crossing the prairie, a distance of some eighteen miles, we continued on and encamped at a spring with sparse grass. Had we gone two miles farther, we should have found an excellent camp on the river, and the next morning some of our animals were found in this very spot. The horses of the Spokanes roam over this prairie in herds of from twelve to twenty. Towards the latter portion of the march the river runs over a rocky bed of trap.
October 17. Leaving camp, Antoine, Osgood, Stanley, and myself turned from the trail to visit the falls of the Cœur d’Alene River, while Lavatte took the train ahead on the trail to the Spokane House. There are two principal falls, one of twenty feet and the other of from ten to twelve feet, in the latter there being a perpendicular fall of seven or eight feet; for a quarter of a mile the descent is rapid, over a rough bed of rocks, and in this distance we estimated a fall of ninety or one hundred feet. One mile below this point we came to the ferry crossed by Saxton. Here there is a small Indian village, and the inhabitants were engaged in catching salmon. I noticed one large woman who seemed to pride herself upon her person, which she took pains to set off in the most becoming manner by means of a blanket wrapped around her. The road to the Spokane House was over a sandy prairie, interspersed with groves of pine. Crossing a dividing ridge with high and steep banks, we came into the prairie in which the Spokane House is situated, in which were two Spokane villages. We inquired for Garry, and I sent him a request that he would visit me at my camp. The train we found a mile below the junction, across the Spokane. The Indians indicating a good camp some distance beyond, we moved on eight and a half miles to it, which we reached half an hour before sundown. Here there was good grass and plenty of water, and we soon made up a large campfire. After arranging matters in camp, I observed about nightfall a fire down the river, and, strolling down to the place, came upon a little camp of Spokane Indians, and found them engaged in religious services, which I was glad of an opportunity to witness. There were three or four men, the same number of women, and half a dozen children. Their exercises were, 1, address; 2, Lord’s prayer; 3, Psalms; 4, benediction, and were conducted with great solemnity.
In the evening Garry visited us with some of his tribe. They gave rumors of a large party having arrived opposite Colville, also of a small party having gone from Walla Walla to Colville.
Garry was educated by the Hudson Bay Company at Red River, where he lived four years with six other Indians from this vicinity, all of whom are now dead. He speaks English and French well, and we have had a long conversation this evening; but he is not frank, and I do not understand him. He has an extensive field, where he raises a large quantity of wheat. To-morrow he is going to Colville to get some of it ground. Garry promises to send me to-morrow the Indian who has just arrived from the Yakima country, and who is posted up concerning the news of that place.
October 18. A Spokane breakfasted with us this morning, and we started at 8.30 o’clock. After riding till ten o’clock we were joined by the old Indian referred to yesterday, and Antoine’s services were immediately put into requisition to obtain information. At twelve o’clock we lunched. The old man stated that a large party reached the bank of the river opposite Colville yesterday, and that they would cross to-day. I was satisfied from his accounts that the party was McClellan’s, and accordingly determined on going to Colville to-night. Antoine has horses half way. We rested until two o’clock and then set out, Antoine and myself pushing ahead of the train. We met Antoine’s family encamped on a fine prairie, with whom Antoine remained, sending his brother-in-law with us as a guide. At 4.15 we reached the ferry, where we were detained fifteen minutes. At 4.45 we met Jack (Lieutenant Macfeely’s guide), who informed me that Macfeely reached Walla Walla three weeks ago, being twenty-two days coming from St. Mary’s. He lost twenty animals, and was detained two days in an unsuccessful search for a man who had strayed from the trail. The road was bad, and they got off the trail, having struck too high up. Jack told us it was twenty-eight miles to Colville, and that we could not reach there to-night, but, being determined to do so, we pushed on and reached Brown’s at 5.45, who informed us that the distance to Colville was eighteen miles. After partaking of some bread and milk, we resumed the road with the same animals, dashing off at full speed, going eight or nine miles an hour most of the way, and reached Colville at nine o’clock. Mr. McDonald, the trader in charge, gave me a most hospitable reception, and addressed a note to McClellan, who had just gone to his camp near by, informing him of my arrival. McClellan came up immediately, and, though I was fairly worn out with the severeness of the ride, we sat up till one o’clock. At eleven we sat down to a nice supper, prepared by Mrs. McDonald, and regaled ourselves with steaks cooked in buffalo fat, giving them the flavor of buffalo meat. I retired exhausted with the fatigues of the day.