Situated as Lavington is at the foot of the downs, which rise to a considerable altitude above it, with hills on the opposite side of nearly equal height, seen from either it appears to lie in a complete basin, every way adapted to act as a drain or receiver of water from the uplands—a fact illustrated in the years 1841–2, when a great destruction of property-took place at Shrewton, through inundations occasioned by the accumulation of water by the rapid thawing of the snow in various natural basins in the vicinity, as at Candown Bottom and other places. The soil of the valley, so favourable to the cultivation of edible roots, being marked by the combined characters of the surrounding barriers.
In some parts of the kingdom there are places where well-defined and specific geological features conduct to certain conclusions, such as the primeval deposits of virgin soil—the annual product of rank foliage where the foot of man for ages never trod, which, when brought to tillage, yields successive crops of abundance—the subsidence of a vast and overwhelming inundation—the retreat of the watery element after ages of possession, leaving its hitherto submerged bed high and dry. As an illustration, we may refer to the subsoil of Bath, which is stone of so friable a nature as to be easily affected by the elements, and, if examined, will be found a combination of various shells, which plainly tell its former state, or the severance of some great and terrible convulsion, forming vast chasms, and exhibiting the various strata of rocks far down in the womb of the earth. There is a very good display of this at villas in the neighbourhood of Frome, Somersetshire, and at Clifton Hotwells, near Bristol, or in places round the Isle of Wight, and in the coal-fields at Radstock, and each of these present their own peculiar characters; but here we have on either side of the valley a separate and distinct formation. The downs predominate in chalk, on a stony brackish soil, with but a thin layer of vegetable earth on a substratum of flint and gravel; the exception of the hollows no way interfering with the general state. On the opposite side there is sand to the depth of several feet resting upon sandstone, with occasional layers of granite, then again sand and sandstone, ultimating in a subsoil of granite, and this extends for several miles. The washings of the two barriers by the repeated rains, together with the humid atmosphere, so striking a character in the climate of this country, combining in various degrees, produces the fertile soil of the valley from the sandy loam to the stiff clay.
If we recur to the times of invasion when hordes of barbarians sought the subjugation of this island, the predatory warfare with the ravages to which the inland parts of the country were exposed, there would naturally be a disposition and desire of secrecy and seclusion. Now no place could be better adapted for this purpose, surrounded as it is by the uplands before referred to, lying, too, at a distance from the main road on either hand, and possessing within itself the chief resources of subsistence, it could remain unknown as long as needful. We must remember, when speaking of by-gone times their facilities of information were very rude and simple. How, in the absence of the appliances of transit and intercommunication which we possess, they would denote the direction of various towns we know not; their proximity to certain well known objects, or as occupying particular situations, might afford them means and facilities, especially if we allow the progress of improvement. Let us apply this theory in the present case, and it might be the town left on quitting the downs, and emerging towards the chief towns, as Bath, or the last town prior to ascending them. The name, therefore might mean the washed or watered—the hidden or left town.
As but very few of the older buildings remain, and what traditions there are being very vague, it is impossible to fix the date of its formation. The church, of which we shall speak more fully elsewhere, has doubtless stood for some hundreds of years. The old parsonage, with its gables and cress-muntained windows, carries the visitor into by-gone times. A large mansion on the road to Urchfont, at the turn to Eastcott, has undoubtedly the marks of age; its ponderous appearance, numerous gables, heavy stacks of chimnies, and ballustraded gallery—tell of times when profuse hospitality was common. There is one at Easterton, of which we have more definite accounts: it is now in the occupation of Mr. Neville. Report states it to have been erected by the Protector, Oliver Cromwell, about the year 1657, for his general, Kinson; and to which he himself oft repaired, either when commanding in the wars between Charles II. and the parliament (of whose armies Cromwell was commander-in-chief), one of which took place at Bratton, about eight miles distant, a spot celebrated from the time of Alfred the Great, where, after rallying his troops at Clay hill, near Frome, he gave the Danes battle and routed them, the spot is shown where the Danes encamped and where Alfred penetrated in the disguise of an harper,—or probably the Protector here sought for seclusion and rest to a mind perturbed and alarmed to suspicion by the publication of a work, supposed to allude to him, entitled, “Killing no Murder.”
At Wroughton’s Folly there are remains of a once extensive erection, which, from its size, would have accommodated a numerous family. Its picturesque situation, surrounded with extensive grounds, formed a charming retreat; it was occupied by a retired merchant, but has long gone to decay. Report states the ruins were once the retreat of a daring freebooter, who preyed upon the surrounding homesteads and laid under contribution the yeoman as he returned from the neighbouring markets: little now remains save the foundations of the cellars. Near this spot are three mounds within a small enclosure in the middle of a field, of which tradition thus speaks:—In the time of Charles II., when that dreadful scourge, the plague, which destroyed upwards of one hundred thousand of the inhabitants of London, broke out, three brothers, seeking to avoid the common lot, fled to this spot, thinking thereby to escape, but they were overtaken by the fell destroyer, and buried here.
Lavington was formerly distinguished for its corn market and the manufacture of malt, in which articles business to a very considerable extent was transacted; this gave it the appellative attached. Its proximity to the rising town of Devizes soon reduced it to its present condition; it is now generally known for its large supplies of vegetables to the market of Devizes, distant 6 miles,—Trowbridge, 12 miles,—Bath, 22 miles,—and Salisbury, 19 miles. The market-place continues to maintain its former dimensions, and constitutes the favourite resort of the juvenile portion of the population. The stocks, once a terror and punishment to evildoers, have lost their dread, and the clanking iron has become a musical instrument in their estimation. Near this is the Engine-house, a wooden erection, with a cupulo for a bell whose tongue is happily seldom inclined to speak, the services of the engine is seldom required; fire, as an element of alarm, being of very rare occurrence. The population of the place, including the hamlet of Easterton, is 1700; and the area of the parish about 3036 acres to Lavington, and 1592 to Easterton.
SECTION II.
Ecclesiastical and Denominational accommodation—Literary and other advantages—Educational facilities—Scenery.
This place is included within the diocese of Salisbury, and has a church of considerable antiquity, dating somewhere between 1360 and 1380, most probably the time of Edward III. It was built by the Roman Catholics, and dedicated to St. Michael, and is in the gift of Christchurch college, Oxford. Its style of architecture is a mixture; there are some parts appearing older than the main building, which would lead to the supposition of a prior edifice; the striking features denote the time of transition from the plain English to that of the decorated, but some parts are of very recent construction. It consists of a chancel of about 42 ft. by 18½ ft.; a nave, 54 ft. by 51 ft.; and a square tower, 17 ft. by 18 ft.; and will accommodate about 600 people. The chancel, which has been recently renovated, is inlaid with encaustic tiles; and here are several marble monumental tablets to the relics of the Sainburys; one especially with a full-length female figure to Thomas Twice, sheriff, and once Lord Mayor of London; and another to Mr. Merewether, father of the town clerk of the same place. The tower is an embattled one, having a ring of six bells. Beneath it are two or three records of munificence; one a bequest by — Tanner, formerly vicar of this parish, afterwards Bishop of St. Asaph, to the following effect:—To the minister for a sermon annually, £1; for the purchase of four bibles for the use of the poor, £1; for the education of three children, £1; a dinner for the respectable inhabitants, £1; the ringers for two short peals, 6s.; the sexton and clerk, 5s. A gilt tablet to this worthy man is placed in the nave, near the chancel. The other bequest is by two brothers, of £100 each in the consols; the interest to be distributed in bread to the poor. Beneath the tower is a stone font with a carved oak lid, the work of a self-taught artist, a native of Bath; presented to the church by Mr. Stubbart. This edifice is situated at the west end of the place on rising ground, and forms a conspicuous object in all directions. With this is connected a handsome building for the use of the day school, which is conducted upon the plan of the national system, numbering 90 boys and 75 girls; and a Sabbath school, numbering 180 boys, 170 girls, and 17 teachers.
There is also a respectable Dissenting cause, dating from the year 1801, when a church was formed upon the platform of the Independent or Congregational order. Their place of worship is at the east end of the town; its dimensions are 33 ft. by 42 ft., and it is capable of holding between four and five hundred of this cause: a fuller account will be given in the subsequent pages. They have connected with them a good Sabbath school, numbering 60 boys, 70 girls, and 13 teachers. A British and Foreign day school was established, but various circumstances having militated against its progress and success, it has declined, and is at the present time carried on as a private undertaking. With the Independents is associated a Dorcas Society, consisting of twelve subscribers, a number of whom meet once a month to make garments, which are given away to the poor of the place. There is also a society organised in connection with the Wiltshire Association of the British and Foreign Bible Society for the supply of the Holy Scriptures at cost-price to the poor, and to render aid to the Parent Society. This is confined to no denomination, but embraces all who desire their circulation without note or comment.