Madrid, although, with the exception of Constantinople, the most interesting city in Europe to visit, owing to the perfect novelty of scene which it presents even to him who has travelled through every other country, would not be an agreeable permanent residence. It is not like Paris, or Rome, or Vienna; in any of which cities a stranger may, if he pleases, live nearly as he lived in his own country. In Madrid, this is impossible; the hotels are execrable; boarding houses there are none; and although a stranger may find lodgings, he will find Spanish habits in them. Of the state of society, and of the diversions, I have already given some idea. These possess much interest to a stranger, but not any permanent attraction; so that after he has remained in Madrid long enough to gratify his curiosity with the novel spectacle of a people differing from all the rest of the world, in dress, habits, amusements, modes of life, and modes of thinking, he will begin to feel some desire to know what the world beyond Spain is doing; because of this, he can know nothing within Spain. But let no traveller leave Madrid to return to England. Seville and Granada lie beyond; and when the Castiles have lost their attraction, Andalusia and its thousand charms await him.
Before closing this chapter,—the last that has any reference to Madrid,—let me give some information respecting the price of provisions, &c.
The Spanish capital is probably the dearest capital in Europe; and this cannot excite surprise, when it is considered that Madrid is situated in the midst of a sterile country, where there is no pasture land, no rivers, scarcely any gardens, and no communication with the sea, or with any of the distant and more productive provinces. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, the markets are well supplied; and all kinds of meat, poultry, game, vegetables, and fruit, may be had of an excellent quality: fish, and milk, are the only scarce articles. In the following enumeration, the best quality of every article is understood; it is not easy to render the prices with precision, into English money, because they are generally reckoned in quartos; but if the reader recollects that eight quartos are nearly 2¼d., one quarto being 18/64ths of a penny, it will be no difficult calculation to bring the prices to English value.
Beef, per lb. of 14 oz. 18 quartos. Veal, per lb. 30 quartos. Mutton, per lb. 18 quartos. Pork, per lb. 20 quartos.
The price of fish cannot be stated with accuracy; it is never seen excepting in winter, and the supply is so precarious, that it is impossible to approach the truth.
Bread, of the first quality, is 14 quartos per lb.; the second quality 10.
Ordinary wine of La Mancha, 21 quartos.
A fine fowl, 6 reals (1s. 6d.). A chicken, from 7d. to 10d. A duck, from 1s. 8d. to 2s. 1d. A goose, 3s. 6d. A turkey, from 4s. to 10s., according to the season. Turkeys, in Madrid, are not sold in the markets, but are driven through the streets. I have several times bought a small turkey for 3s. Pigeons, 1s. 6d. or 1s. 8d. a couple.
Coffee, 1s. 8d. per lb. Chocolate, 2s. 6d. per lb. Green tea, 10s. Black tea, 12s.; but it is scarcely to be found. Sugar, 1s. 8d., equal to English sugar at 11d. The natives use sugar at 10d.; but it is dirty and bad.
Goat’s milk 4d. a pint during summer,—half that price in winter; cow’s milk is difficult to be had in summer,—in winter it is 3d. a pint; Flanders butter 2s. 6d. per lb.; salted butter, from the Asturias and Galicia, may also be had at 1s. 6d.; but it is not good.