CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
| [CHAPTER XII. —— JOURNEY FROM MADRID THROUGH LA MANCHA,ACROSS THE SIERRA MORENA, AND BYCORDOVA TO SEVILLE.] | |
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| Different Modes of Travelling to Seville; Journey to Aranjuez;the Gardens of Aranjuez; Ocana; a Spanish Supper;Polinario, the ci-devant Robber; History of hisChange of Life; La Mancha, and Journey to Manzanarez;Madridlejos and its Population; Husbandry of LaMancha; Puerto Lapiche, and References to DonQuixotte; Manzanarez; Journey to the foot of the SierraMorena; Consolacion, and its miserable People; Val dePeñas and its Wine, and Details; Explanation of a Passagein Don Quixotte; the Venta de Cardenas, and theSierra Morena; Mountain Images; Journey on mulebackacross the Sierra Morena; the New Settlements, andtheir Condition; Descent into Andalusia; Novel Prospects;Baylen; a Defence against Mosquitos; PicturesqueViews; Anduxar; Journey from Anduxar toCordova; the Plain of the Guadalquivir; extraordinaryAloes, and Uses of the Aloe; charming Situation of Cordova;its former Splendour and present Wretchedness;Lead Mines; the Mosque; Journey to Seville; StrikingViews; Political Sentiments of a Barber of Ecija; Carmona;View of Seville, and Arrival. | [1] |
| [CHAPTER XIII. —— SEVILLE.] | |
| Madrid not the sole Capital of Spain; Peculiarities of Seville;Moorish Customs; the Streets; the Population; Mannerof Living in Andalusia; Society; Morals; the Archbishop;the Dean; the Convents; frequency of Murderin Andalusia, and its Causes; Serenading; Superstition inSeville, and examples of it; extraordinary Facts; thePaseo; Andalusian Women; Oracion; Las Delicias;Orange-Groves; Details respecting the Orange Trade ofSeville; the Cathedral; the Capuchin Convent; La Caridad,and Murillo’s Pictures; Private Collections; the Alcazarand its Gardens; the Tobacco Manufactory; RomanRemains; Seville as a Residence; Prices of Provisions;Descent of the Guadalquivir, and its Banks; Optic Deception;St. Lucar; Night Journey; Port St. Mary; theBay of Cadiz, and the City.6 | [4] |
| [CHAPTER XIV. —— XERES, AND ITS WINES.] | |
| Journey to Xeres; the Vineyards, and their Produce; Amountof Export, and Official Tables for Ten Years; averageExport and Price; Increase in the Trade; the Xeres Grape;Details respecting the Manufacture of Sherry; PaleSherry and Brown Sherry; a curious Sherry; Amontillado;Adulterated Sherries, Inferior Sherries, and Low-pricedSherries; the Xeres Cellars; Varieties in Tasteof Sherries; Knowledge of the Merchants; Managementof the Vineyards; Wine Houses in Xeres and in Port St.Mary; Price of Sherry in Cadiz; Port St. Mary; theTheatre, and Liberal Opinions; Strength of the LiberalParty in this Neighbourhood; Return to Cadiz by Land;Isla; the Tongue of Cadiz | [98] |
| [CHAPTER XV. —— CADIZ, AND JOURNEY OVERLAND TO GIBRALTAR.] | |
| Peculiarities of Cadiz; a Fête; the Ladies of Cadiz; curiousWhims and Usages; Morals; the Religious Bodies; Murillo’slast Picture; Mr. Brackenbury’s Pictures; Remarksupon Consular Remuneration; the two Cathedrals; effectsupon the Commercial Prosperity of Cadiz, from its havingbeen created a Free Port; State of the Road between Cadizand Gibraltar; Departure from Cadiz; Chiclana; MorningScenes; a Venta; the African Coast; Wild Scenery; Dangersof the Road; Suspicious Circumstance; Tariffa; anotherVenta; Journey through the Mountains to Algesiras;View of Gibraltar; Arrival. | [119] |
| [CHAPTER XVI. —— GIBRALTAR. MALAGA.] | |
| Picture of the Street Population of Gibraltar; the Constructionof Houses favourable to Epidemic; Scenery, union of Natureand Art; the Agremens of Gibraltar as a MilitaryStation; high Prices in Gibraltar; the Alameda; the Excavations;Walk to the Summit; the Monkeys; MagnificentView; Sunday in Gibraltar; Trade; the Epidemic;Extortion at the Passport Office; Voyage to Malaga; Viewof the City from the Sea; a strange Usage; Pictures ofIdleness; facility of Living in Malaga; Bad Characterof the Population; an Anecdote; Public Edifices; Society;Morals; Italian Opera; curious Scenes; a perilous Situation;the Wines of Malaga; Produce, and Export ofWines; Malaga Sherry; Export of Fruits; the Raisins ofMalaga; Trade with England; Excursions in the Neighbourhood;Water-Coolers; Prices of Provisions | [156] |
| [CHAPTER XVII. —— JOURNEY FROM MALAGA TO GRANADA.—GRANADA.] | |
| Different Routes to Granada; Ascent of the Malaga Mountains;an Anecdote illustrative of Spanish Morals; Pictureof a Venta and its Inmates; Night Arrangements, beautifulsituation of Loxa; the Venta de Casin; first View ofGranada; Reflections; the Situation of Granada and itsVega; the Alhambra; St. Michael’s Mount, and its Singularities;excavated Dwellings; View from the Mount; extraordinaryChanges in Temperature; a Fire in Granada,and the curious means resorted to for extinguishing it; Superstition;the Cathedral; the Convents; the Archbishop;Husbandry in the Vega of Granada; State of Agriculture;the Duke of Wellington’s Estates; Effects of the Loss ofthe Colonies; the Paseos of Granada; the Population; theMarket; Usages; the Italian Opera. | [201] |
| [CHAPTER XVIII. —— JOURNEY FROM GRANADA TO MURCIA.—MURCIA.] | |
| The best mode of travelling this Road; Precautions necessary;the Village of Huetor, and its Venta; Aspect of theCountry; an Encounter; Diezma; singular Scenery;Guadix; Journey from Guadix; excessive Cold; Baza,and its Valley; Cullar de Baza; excavated Dwellings;a probable intention of Robbery; Chirivel; DesolateCountry on the confines of Murcia; Puerto; the Vale ofLorca; Dress of the Murcian Peasantry; Lorca Market;the Cathedral, and Liberality of the Archbishop of Carthagena;Totana; a Dance; Approach to Murcia, and extraordinarybeauty of its Vale; Murcia, its Streets and Population;Magnificent View from the summit of the CathedralTower; Paseos and Environs; a ridiculous Observance;Prices of Provisions; Manufacture of Salt-Petre; SilkManufacture; Agriculture. | [248] |
| [CHAPTER XIX. —— JOURNEY FROM MURCIA TO ALICANT.—ALICANT;AND JOURNEY FROM ALICANT TO SAN FELIPEAND VALENCIA.] | |
| Winter in England and in Spain; Journey from Murcia;Orihuela and its Huerta; Inhabitants, and Superstition;a Muleteer’s Story; La Granja, and effects of the Earthquakeof 1829; Elche, and its Forest of Palms; Commerce;the Date; arrival at Alicant; magnificent Houses; Situationof Alicant; the Feast of the Patron Saint; peculiarityin Alicant Society; Political Restrictions on Society;the Trade and Exports of Alicant; Barilla, the Huerta;an extraordinary Law-suit; Dangerous Road to SanFelipe; Montforte, Novilda, and Elda; the Feast ofthe Concepcion Purissima; Sax, and Villena; Recontrewith Moorish Physicians; Fuente de Higuera; Soldiers’Opinions; charming Scenes; the Algarrobo; arrival atSan Felipe; magnificent Moorish Remains; Relics ofMoorish Customs; Journey to Valencia; Conversationwith a Dominican Friar; the Plain of Valencia; Springand Autumn in Spain; arrival at Valencia. | [283] |
| [CHAPTER XX. —— VALENCIA.—JOURNEY TO BARCELLONA.] | |
| Bridges, River, Convents; prevalence of Religious Bigotry;Moorish Remains; Beggars, and the cause of their abundancein Valencia; the Archbishop; the University; Academyof Fine Arts; the Cathedral and its Tower; theplain of Valencia and its productions; Rice Grounds andtheir produce; produce of Silk, and Silk Trade; exportof Fruit; prices of Provisions; Pictures; Valencia Society;the Ladies of Valencia; the port of Valencia; Paseos;Valencia Tiles; Journey to Murviedro, (the ancient Saguntum);Convento de los Reyes; Murviedro, its Fortress,and Ruins of Saguntum; an Arrest; a visit from theAlcalde; Journey to Tarragona; pleasing Scenes; Catalunia;Catalunian industry and its causes; Tarragona, itsAntiquities and Cathedral; Provincial Dialects; sorting ofNuts, and the Nut trade; Journey to Barcellona, andarrival. | [327] |
| [CHAPTER XXI. —— BARCELLONA—JOURNEY TO THE FRONTIER.] | |
| General Character of Barcellona, and its Population; Paseos,Ramparts, and Fortifications; the Conde de España; hisPolicy; Interview with the Conde; his Character andGovernment; Anecdotes of his Government; PoliticalFeeling in Barcellona; Churches and Convents; the Opera;Monjuich; Barcellonetta; Decrease of Trade with England,and its Causes; General Trade of Barcellona; an Execution;the Priesthood and the People; a Miracle in 1827;Prices of Provisions; Visit to Monserrat; Journey fromBarcellona to the Frontier; Delightful Scenery; Proofsof Catalunian Industry; Gerona Figueras; the Pyrennees;Reflexions. | [365] |
SPAIN IN 1830.
CHAPTER XII.
—
JOURNEY FROM MADRID THROUGH LA MANCHA, ACROSS THE SIERRA MORENA, AND BY CORDOVA TO SEVILLE.
Different Modes of Travelling to Seville; Journey to Aranjuez; the Gardens of Aranjuez; Ocana; a Spanish Supper; Polinario, the ci-devant Robber; History of his Change of Life; La Mancha, and Journey to Manzanarez; Madridlejos and its Population; Husbandry of La Mancha; Puerto Lapiche, and References to Don Quixotte; Manzanarez; Journey to the foot of the Sierra Morena; Consolacion, and its miserable People; Val de Peñas and its Wine, and Details; Explanation of a Passage in Don Quixotte; the Venta de Cardenas, and the Sierra Morena; Mountain Images; Journey on muleback across the Sierra Morena; the New Settlements, and their Condition; Descent into Andalusia; Novel Prospects; Baylen; a Defence against Mosquitos; Picturesque Views; Anduxar; Journey from Anduxar to Cordova; the Plain of the Guadalquivir; extraordinary Aloes, and Uses of the Aloe; charming Situation of Cordova; its former Splendour and present Wretchedness; Lead Mines; the Mosque; Journey to Seville; Striking Views; Political Sentiments of a Barber of Ecija; Carmona; View of Seville, and Arrival.
The heats of summer had now so far subsided, as to justify a change from the elevated plain of Castile, to the warm shores of Andalusia. Accordingly, being provided by the kindness of my friends in Madrid, with letters for the captains-general of the southern provinces, and for numerous private individuals, all which, together with the letters to his majesty’s consuls, and to mercantile houses, brought with me from England, formed a budget of no contemptible size or value, I prepared for my long and fatiguing journey.
But although, in leaving Madrid to traverse the southern and south-eastern provinces of Spain, the traveller naturally anticipates in this journey of not less than sixteen hundred miles, many privations, and some dangers; there are also a thousand delightful and novel associations to excite his expectation. La Mancha, and the memory of its courteous knight; and the thousand reminiscences with which the genius of Cervantes has hallowed it,—the Sierra Morena, and its wild histories and lawless banditti,—Seville, which, with its orange groves and Guadalquivir, its masks and serenades, holds in the mind a sort of fabled existence,—Granada, its Alhambra, and snowy Sierras, and the host of historic and romantic recollections with which it is peopled,—Murcia, and its groves of date trees, its earthquakes, and ruined villages, and benighted inhabitants. Valencia, and its rich plains and eternal summer, its gorgeous city and majestic antiquities.
There is only one road from Madrid to Seville; but there are various modes of travelling it. Diligences, which leave Madrid twice a week, perform the journey in four days and a half; resting every evening from about seven, till a little after midnight. Galeras, on springs, which have no regular day of departure, but which are to be found every week, perform the journey in ten days. A private coach and seven mules may be hired, by which eleven or twelve days will be occupied on the road; or this journey may, like every other in Spain, be performed by mules, and by this mode of conveyance, fourteen days must be allowed. But none of these modes altogether pleased me; because the road between Madrid and Seville is so varied in the degree of interest which it possesses, that no single conveyance could unite the advantages of rapidity and slowness, essential to the enjoyment of the traveller who wishes to linger in those parts where peculiar attractions are to be found, and to pass rapidly over those uninteresting tracts that stretch between one point of interest and another. I resolved, therefore, to travel from Madrid to Ocaña, by Aranjuez, in a caleche; to take the diligence through La Mancha, to the foot of the Sierra Morena; to cross the Sierra to Anduxar on muleback; and there to be guided by circumstances and information, as to the mode of journeying to Seville.