Cemetery of Père la Chaise.—Graves there become a property.—Reflections respecting church-yards.—Computation of deaths, and room requisite for graves.—The Catacombs.—Arrival at Paris of the author's family.—Palace of Versailles described.—Royal chapel.—Anecdote of a mandarin.—Orange trees.—The gardens.—The Grand and Petit Trianon.—St. Germains.—Its terrace.—St. Cloud.—Its park.—Remark of George III.—Malmaison.—Marly.—Fine prospect.—Stability of the peace.—Meudon.—The Dauphiness (Duchesse d'Angoulême).—Manufacture of porcelain.—St. Denis.—The abbey of St. Denis.—Sceaux, popular festivities here.—Castle of Vincennes.—Duc d'Enghién.—Ancient oak.—Confluence of the Seine and the Marne.—The author attends mass in the Royal Chapel at the Tuilleries.

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CHAP. V.

Celebrated statues.—Various political opinions detailed.—Bargaining.—Two prices.—English travellers reputed to be very rich.—Parties.—The military.—Spoliation of the clergy.—Ambition of Bonaparte.—Prudence of Louis XVIII.—Increase of Paris.—Explanation of 'à la lanterne.'—Observations on the main streets of Paris.—High rents.—The Fauxbourg St. Germain.—The allied armies evacuate France.

[168]

CHAP. VI.

Inventory of a furnished apartment.—The pane of glass.—The author quits Paris.—Voiturier.—Berline with three horses.—Travelling arrangements.—Agreement for stipulated sums.—Comparison betwixt travelling by a voiture, thus agreed for, and travelling post.—Louis the coachman.—Sup at Essonne.

[184]

CHAP. VII.

The family of Fitz-James, settled at Essonne.—Description of Fontainebleau.—The Forest.—The King's bed.—The garden.—Maréchal de Coigny.—Tomb of a Dauphin at Sens.—Auxerre.—Banks of the Yonne.—Use of the hot-bath.—Cleanliness of the French.—Hilly country.—Vintages injured by the cold of 1816.—The coopers in activity.—The Plain of the Saône.—Coche d'eau.—Tournus.—Image of the Virgin.—Arrival at Lyons.—Fête de St. Louis.—The Cathedral.—Place Bellecour.—Cathedral at Vienne.—The Isere.—Valence.—Memoranda discovered at the 'Grand Monarque' Inn.—Country of the olive.—Flat roofs.—Bad inns.—Triumphal arch at Orange.