I must not conclude without saying that Castellinaria still remains as in Chapter II of my previous book, “not so marked on any map of Sicily.”

September, 1911

CONTENTS

CASTELLINARIA
chapter page
I. Changes in the Town 17
II. Festa Rimandata 36
PALERMO
III. Marionettists at Home 53
IV. Malagigi 66
V. Argantino 73
VI. The Escape from Paris 82
CATANIA
VII. The Buffo’s Holiday 93
TRAPANI
VIII. The Nascita 115
MOUNT ERYX
IX. The Compare 129
X. Compare Berto 135
XI. Berto’s Wedding 142
TRABONELLA
XII. Sulphur 151
XIII. Omertà and the Mafia 157
XIV. Mala Vita 165
CASTELLINARIA
XV. The Cardinalessa 177
XVI. The Corporal 185
EARTHQUAKE ECHOES
XVII. Totò Carbonara 203
Turiddu Balistrieri 208
Railway Porters 216
Giuseppe Platania 220
Giulio Adamo 222
Cecè Luna 223
Fugitives and Victims 227
THE SLOPES OF ETNA
XVIII. Lava 233
XIX. S. Alfio 242
XX. The Naked Runners 248
CATANIA
XXI. Holy Week 261
ORTIGIA
XXII. O Fountain Arethuse 289

CASTELLINARIA

CHAPTER I
CHANGES IN THE TOWN

Enrico Pampalone entered the world with a compliment to his godfather, for of all the days in the year he chose to be born on my birthday. Peppino sent me a telegram at once, then a formal invitation to the christening, then a letter, an extract from which I translate:

With immense joy I inform you that Brancaccia has given to the light a fine, healthy boy. Mother and child are well and send you their salutations. We are all beside ourselves with delight at this happy event and my father is talking of his grandson all day long. In accordance with your promise, you ought to hold the baby at the baptism, but, as I absolutely cannot permit you to undertake so long a journey for this purpose, I am sending you a formal document and I beg you to return it to me at once signed with your name in order that the ceremony may take place with as little delay as possible.

We are all looking forward to the pleasure of seeing you playing with your godchild which you will be able to do on your next visit.

The formal document was to the following effect:

WHEREAS I the undersigned have undertaken the duty of acting as godfather to Enrico the new-born son of Giuseppe and Brancaccia Pampalone of the Albergo della Madonna (con giardino) Castellinaria Sicily AND WHEREAS I am detained in London for several weeks and desire that the baptism of the said infant shall not be delayed on that account NOW I DO HEREBY APPOINT Luigi Pampalone the father of the said Giuseppe Pampalone to be my substitute for me and in my name to hold the said Enrico Pampalone his grandson at the sacred font on the occasion of his baptism and to do all such other acts and deeds as may be necessary in the promises as fully and effectually as I could do the same if I were present in my own person I hereby agreeing to ratify and confirm all that the said Luigi Pampalone shall do by virtue of this writing AS WITNESS my hand this day of