On Monday morning every one rose fresh for action, and to work we went until three o’clock in the afternoon, scarcely affording time for eating. We then adjourned to the sea-shore, for the purpose of witnessing the christening of the king of the Moors. On this day all the jangadas and canoes were put in requisition; the owners of them and others of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood were divided into two parties, Christians and Moors. A stage was erected at low water mark upon high poles, and this was intended to represent a Moorish fortress; the affair was so timed that the tide should be at the height at the commencement of the sport, by which means the stage was surrounded by the water. Upon the sea-shore were two high thrones, with canopies made of counterpanes, &c. These were at the distance of about three hundred yards from each other, and were placed immediately above high water mark. The Christian king sat upon one of them, and the Moorish king upon the other, both of them being habited in fine flowing robes. The affair began by the former dispatching one of his officers on horseback to the latter, requiring him to undergo the ceremony of baptism, which he refused to do. Several other couriers passed from each side, all of whom were on horseback, and fantastically dressed in loose garments. War being declared the numerous jangadas and canoes of each party were soon in motion, making towards the fortress in the water; some were going to assist in protecting it, and others to obtain possession of it. The persons who were in the fort were now seen preparing for its defence; there was much firing, and at last, after many struggles on both sides, it was taken by the Christians. The Moorish vessels however escaped and landed their crews, the opposite party doing the same. The armies met on shore and fought hand to hand for a considerable time, but in the end the Moorish king was taken prisoner, hurled from his throne, and forcibly baptised. The whole affair was very gay, for the sands were crowded with people who were all in their best cloaths, finery of many kinds being displayed—silks, satins, muslins, and printed cottons; ornaments of gold and of precious stones; bonnets of straw, and of silks, and ribbons of all colours in great quantities; shoes, white, black, and of various tints; then there were coats that had not for many a day seen the light; cotton and cloth jackets made for the occasion, embroidered waistcoats, and others more general of less costly materials; pantaloons of nankeen and of various other light materials; cocked hats, a few of beaver and of straw, and round ones many; half boots, and shoes and buckles.
There appeared at Pillar one of the Valentoens, who had often created great disturbances in many parts, and although his apprehension was much desired, he trod the soil of Pillar with great confidence, as if he was aware that his person was secure owing to his great reputation for intrepidity; but his safety proceeded from my friend of the stockade prison not being the chief magistrate of the place for the year. On the morrow all parties were preparing to return home; we saw the ladies set off on horseback, and according to a strange custom, a number of metal pans were collected, and as they went away from the door the persons who remained beat the pans against each other, so as to make a gingling noise. This is practised as a joke, and on this occasion, as is usual, created much laughter.
Shortly after this period I received advices from England, which rendered necessary my return home. I gave up my plan of residing in Brazil with reluctance; but I am now much rejoiced that it so happened. Yet at that time it required some resolution to leave the people, the place, and the things in which I had taken deep interest,—my negroes and free people,—my horses and my dogs, and even my cats and fowls;—the house and the garden which I had been improving and forming,—and the fields which I had cleared, and was cultivating. All this, believe me, cost much pain in leaving; but thanks to those who desired that it should be so. I should have soon become a Brazil planter; the state in which a man who rules over slaves is placed, is not likely to make him a better creature than he would under other circumstances have been. I should perhaps shortly have been totally unfit to become a member of any other society; my inclinations led me to like the life which I was leading:—I was young, and was independent and had power. Although I am fully aware of the evils which attend a feudal state of society, I liked to have dependants. I might have become so arbitrary, so much a lover of a half savage life; I might have contracted so great a relish for rambling, have become so unsettled, as to have been dissatisfied with what is rational and to be desired in this world. Until lately I cherished the hope of being able to return to that country, with the means of crossing the continent of South America; but I have now given this up from unavoidable circumstances, and even my wishes have taken another bias; but God only knows whether it may not yet be my fate to enter into the scheme; accident, and inclinations over which I have no controul, may so direct. England is my country, but my native soil is Portugal; I belong to both, and whether in the company of Englishmen, of Portugueze, or of Brazilians, I feel equally among my countrymen. My constant and fervent prayers are offered up for their prosperity, and for a continuance of that friendship which has borne the test of so many years. Fresh causes have lately occurred for rivetting the links which bind the two united nations; their people have fought together, and neither have been found wanting.
CHAPTER XVI.
AGRICULTURE.—SUGAR PLANTATIONS.
AGRICULTURE in Brazil[142] had not for many years, until very lately, received any improvement; and even now it is only slowly and with much difficulty that innovations are made. It is quite hopeless to expect a rapid change of system among men who had not even heard that there existed other agriculturists besides themselves; who were astonished to learn that Brazil was not the only country in which sugar was made; who know not, or at least did not know until very lately, that there was any other nation than their own; who imagined that Portugal had possession of every thing worth having in this world; in fact, whose ignorance was extreme. Most of the planters of the inland country, and even most of those near to the coast who reside entirely upon their estates, were, and many still are, in this state. They continue year after year the system which was followed by their fathers, without any wish to improve, and indeed without the knowledge that any improvement could be made. But the freedom of commercial intercourse with other nations has here, as in every thing else, had its effect, and the benefits which are derived from this policy are increasing most rapidly. One of these is to be perceived in the wish which many of the planters display to obtain information respecting the management of the British and French plantations in the Columbian islands. The persons who thus in enriching themselves, are likewise doing the greatest good to their country, are the proprietors of sugar-mills, who reside in Recife altogether or who make frequent visits to it; these men enter into company, hear what is going on in the world, read the few books which are to be obtained, and soon assent to new ideas. Many of the merchants now possess this kind of property, which has fallen into their hands, either in payment of debts or by purchase; and these men have no prejudices to conquer respecting any particular plan of operations. Some of the improvements which are proposed are of such self-evident utility, as to carry with them conviction as soon as they are mentioned.
